Guy Laroche is back—Mathilde Castello Branco unveils a new era of elegance

After a four-year hiatus, Guy Laroche is reclaiming its place on the Paris fashion scene. The luxury house, which had remained largely silent since the pandemic, marked its return with an exclusive cocktail event at the Hôtel de Crillon on the final day of Paris Fashion Week, March 11. The occasion served as the launchpad for Mathilde Castello Branco, the newly appointed creative director, who unveiled her first ready-to-wear collection—a sophisticated, versatile wardrobe deeply rooted in couture craftsmanship and proudly made in France.

To reignite its ready-to-wear line, Guy Laroche turned to a seasoned designer with an impressive background in luxury fashion. Trained at École Duperré and Atelier Chardon-Savard, Mathilde Castello Branco began her career at Hermès, working under Martin Margiela, before spending a decade at Lanvin alongside Alber Elbaz.

Her expertise expanded further as she took on creative leadership roles at Azzaro (2011-2012), Princesse tam.tam (2013-2016), and Weill (2017-2021). Most recently, she dedicated herself to a personal project, crafting a wardrobe built around hand-painted silk pieces.

“Stepping into a house with such a rich heritage is a privilege,” says Castello Branco, who took over the Guy Laroche studio just over two months ago. With her first collection, she laid the foundation for a modernized vision of the brand—one that makes women’s lives easier without compromising elegance.

Her approach focuses on versatility, creating timeless pieces that seamlessly mix and match, allowing women to effortlessly adapt their looks. The fourteen silhouettes presented can transform into twenty-eight outfits. At the same time, accessories—including shoes, berets, and glamorous gloves—are crafted from the same fabrics as the garments, ensuring a cohesive total look.

“The clothes are meant to be played with, to be owned by the woman wearing them. It’s all about mix and match,” explains Castello Branco, who sourced flannel, lightweight wool, plongé lambskin, and silk mousseline from France, Italy, and England, while the denim comes from Japan. Production is handled by the Lyon-based atelier Grain de Tailles, led by Alexandra Berthet and Sophie Plaindoux, specialists in tailoring and wool craftsmanship.

Every piece in the collection is precisely cut and thoughtfully designed. The iconic shirtdress, initially created by Guy Laroche, has been reimagined as a coat dress for fall-winter 2025/26. A cape features a reversible plaid design, offering two hand openings and a hidden gusset with a zipper, allowing the wearer to adjust its volume. A flannel top transforms into either a zippered jacket or a billowy blouse, depending on how it’s worn. Another clever design? A pleated skirt and top duo that comes together as an elegant silk jersey evening dress.

Innovation extends to the smallest details: a gray flannel dress conceals invisible pockets seamlessly integrated into its flap design. A skirt with a back zipper lets the wearer adjust the slit height, while an ultra-delicate mousseline corsage fastens with hidden snap buttons.

“Couture is essential, but it should never feel forced,” says Castello Branco, who is committed to reviving French elegance with a short supply chain and a 100% made-in-France production model.

“It’s a fusion of couture and ready-to-wear,” adds CEO Hendrik Penndorf.

Established in 1957, Guy Laroche built its reputation in haute couture, shaping the elegance of its era. Since its 2004 acquisition by Hong Kong-based YGM Trading, the brand has leaned heavily on licensing, with handbags, watches, jewelry, and eyewear driving much of its revenue. Now, with a fresh creative direction, Guy Laroche is making a bold move to reclaim its place at the forefront of luxury fashion.