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Global shipping costs expected to rise, UNCTAD cites geopolitical and environmental pressures

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 26, 2025

Persistent political instability, robust container demand, and the need to modernize fleets could once again drive up sea freight rates, according to the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). This warning comes as working conditions for seafarers remain a concern in an industry responsible for transporting 80% of global goods.

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UNCTAD expects maritime trade to grow by just 0.5% by volume in 2025, and containerized transport by 1.4%. This marks a slowdown after increases of 2.2% and 5.9%, respectively, in 2024—a year in which the Red Sea crisis, with pirates attacking ships transiting the Suez Canal, led to a rise in container prices. That situation persists.

“Persistent geopolitical tensions in 2025 raise fears of repercussions that could disrupt maritime activity in the Strait of Hormuz,” the United Nations said. “Persistently high transport costs are likely to hit developing countries hardest, particularly small island developing states (SIDS) and least developed countries (LDCs).”

The UNCTAD report also highlights the impact of the U.S. trade war with supplier countries, which could lead to a reconfiguration of shipping lanes. In addition to new U.S. tariffs, port restrictions and customs measures have been tightened for ships built or operated outside the United States. “The result is more rerouting, missed port calls, longer voyages and, ultimately, higher costs,” the document notes.

More responsible fleets

Another factor driving up costs could be the passing on of investments made to make fleets more environmentally responsible. Only 8% of global tonnage is currently equipped to use alternative fuels. Yet greenhouse gas emissions from shipping rose by 5% in 2024. Significant investments linked to decarbonization are therefore likely, once again, to push up container prices.

“The International Maritime Organization’s (IMO) ‘Net Zero Emissions Framework,’ which is due to be considered for adoption in October 2025, will set a global fuel standard and introduce a GHG pricing mechanism from 2028, with a fund that could support developing countries.”

Set to enter into force in June 2025, the Hong Kong Convention on ship recycling and environmental responsibility is expected to cover approximately 90% of the world fleet. UNCTAD is urging ports to assume greater responsibility for their operations and prevent bottlenecks by implementing simplified digital procedures, thereby reducing additional costs and delays.

Better protection for seafarers

On the human rights front, the report notes that 2024 was a record year for seafarer abandonments. It cites non-payment of wages, failure to supply food, water or fuel, and, more broadly, situations where shipowners leave crews to fend for themselves.

According to the International Transport Workers’ Federation (ITF), 3,133 seafarers and 312 ships were affected last year. In 2027, an amendment to the Maritime Labour Convention will strengthen the repatriation and shore leave rights of seafarers stranded in foreign ports—an important step for a freight industry that employs 1.9 million people.

Container prices peaked again in June and July. The Shanghai–New York route reached $7,285 before falling back to $3,571, according to the Drewry benchmark index. The Shanghai–Los Angeles route peaked at $5,914 before easing to $2,561. Shipments from China to Genoa and Rotterdam experienced a more limited peak, now standing at $2,131 and $1,910 per container, respectively.

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Animer launches as French citizen-led union championing regenerative fashion

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January 21, 2026

Not a label, not a lobby, not even a legal entity. That is how Arielle Lévy, president of the Une Autre Mode Est Possible (UAMEP) collective, characterises this nascent union. Animer, an acronym for “Acteurs Nationaux Indépendants Mode Engagée Régénérative,” aims to shine a light on all the initiatives undertaken by fashion stakeholders, from producers to brands, who are advancing responsible, regenerative fashion in France.

The union was founded by eight collectives involved in regenerative fashion – UAMEP

The union was officially launched on Monday January 19, following the petition initiated by Arielle Lévy against Shein in response to the watering down of the anti–fast fashion law. Titled “Paris deserves better than Shein,” the petition drew nearly 140,000 signatures. “I wanted us to unite because I realised how strong the civic voice was,” explains Arielle Lévy. “These collectives are doing superb work and, at a certain point, there is a desire to close ranks, to make society together,” she says.

“Breaking the isolation of initiatives across the regions”

In addition to UAMEP, a number of other collectives are behind Animer, including Fashion Revolution France, L’Âme du Fil (Angers), Collectif Baga (Marseille), Café Flax (Clermont-Ferrand), Le Comptoir de la mode responsable (Poitiers), Le Conservatoire de la Mode Vintage (Isère), and La Grande Collecte/Textile Lab (La Rochelle). “It’s a union of independent collectives, committed to their local areas and sharing the same societal project,” Arielle Lévy emphasises.

The union hopes to represent all French territories
The union hopes to represent all French territories – Collectif Baga

The union plans to focus its efforts on the ground, working across supply chains, regions, practices and even our shared imagination. With “hundreds” of stakeholders already on board via the various founding collectives, Animer is built on ten key ideas: dignity, value-sharing, traceability as a common language, less and better, circular design, smart re-localisation, carbon sobriety, inclusion and plurality, cooperation rather than “sterile competition”, and proof through action.

Animer’s founders plan to bring together all the initiatives active in regenerative fashion across the country. The union hopes to become a preferred interlocutor in defending a societal project focused on respect for the earth, and for men and women. With the help of Fashion Revolution, it aims to act in the national interest by engaging the general public and the country’s institutions.

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L’Oreal to invest $383 million in Indian beauty tech hub

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January 21, 2026

French cosmetics giant L’Oreal said on Wednesday it will set up a beauty tech hub in the south Indian city of Hyderabad with an initial investment ⁠of over 35 billion rupees ($383.4 million).

L’Oréal

The hub aims to be a global ⁠base for AI-driven beauty innovation, create 2,000 tech jobs through 2030, and speed up the rollout of ‍advanced ‌AI beauty solutions, the company said in a ⁠statement.

Nicolas Hieronimus, L’Oreal’s ‌CEO, and the state government of Telangana ‌formalized the partnership at the World Economic Forum, Davos.

Telangana has rapidly emerged as a key investment and technology hub in southern India.

Bilateral ‍trade between India and France stood at $15 billion in 2024, and Indian Prime Minister ‌Narendra ⁠Modi ​and French President Emmanuel Macron have ⁠been ​forging warmer ties.

The two sides have also been working to recast their tax treaty since ​2024 to modernize it by adapting global standards on tax transparency, Reuters ⁠reported in December.
 

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Swarovski appoints new North America general manager

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January 21, 2026

Swarovski on Tuesday announced the appointment of Sindhu Culas to the role of president, general manager, North America at the Austrian jewelry maker.

Sindhu Culas – Courtesy

Based in the luxury firm’s New York City office, Culas will be responsible for “maximizing the Swarovski physical and digital presence and overall brand affinity in the U.S.,” according to a press release.

“We are thrilled to welcome Sindhu to Swarovski. Her vast leadership experience and passion for the brand make her an exceptional addition to our team,” said Kolja Kiofsky, chief commercial officer, Swarovski.

“With Sindhu guiding our next chapter in North America, we are looking ahead to an exciting future filled with creativity, operational excellence, and meaningful growth under our LuxIgnite strategy.” 

A retail veteran with over 25 years of experience across omni‑channel retail and institutional investment management, Culas joins the crystal jewelry maker from G-Star, where she served as CEO of North America at the British denim and apparel brand.

She began her career as a buyer and planner at Macy’s, Talbots, and Lord & Taylor before being promoted to strategy and brand management at Macy’s. Later on, the executive served as senior vendor manager at Amazon and as senior vice president of e‑commerce and strategy for Calvin Klein

“Watching Swarovski’s brand repositioning and momentum in recent years has been inspiring,” said Culas, in response to her new appointment.

“I’m excited to join this exceptional team, collaborate across the business, and help strengthen our position while accelerating growth throughout North America. It’s a remarkable moment for the brand, and I’m thrilled to contribute to the journey ahead.”

Culas’ appointment comes as the luxury jeweller looks to strengthen its position in the North America market. In October, Swarovski’s traveling exhibition “Masters of Light” made its U.S. debut on at the Amoeba Music venue in Los Angeles, coinciding with a collaborative collection with luxury grocer, Erewhon.

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