The legendary Italian couturier, who passed away on 4 September, leaves behind a highly coveted luxury empire. As succession questions multiply, the future of the Giorgio Armani brand now takes center stage.
“Giorgio Armani has always made independence of thought and action his trademark. Today, as in the past, the company reflects this spirit. His family and collaborators will continue the adventure of the group in respect and continuity of these values,” stated the company when announcing the death of the iconic designer. These clear words, however, open the door to many questions about the future of the empire left behind by “King Giorgio.”
For the first time in June 2021, Giorgio Armani appeared at the end of the show with his right-hand man Leo Dell’Orco (left). – Ph SGP
Between the company and his personal estate — including properties, artworks, real estate investments, shares, the Olimpia Milano basketball team, and the Armani/Silos museum — Giorgio Armani leaves behind a fortune estimated between €11 billion and €13 billion. With no direct heirs, he was free to designate how his estate would be managed. His last wishes will be revealed once his will is opened.
His immediate family includes his sister, Rosanna (86), and her son, Andrea Camerana (55), as well as his two nieces, Silvana (69) and Roberta (54), the daughters of his late brother, Sergio. All are members of the board of Giorgio Armani SpA, as is his longtime right-hand and managing consultant, Pantaleo “Leo” Dell‘Orco (72), who oversees the menswear collections. The designer has long referred to them as his intended successors.
The board also includes Yoox founder Federico Marchetti and Rothschild banker Irving Bellotti, who is also a board member of the Giorgio Armani Foundation, created in 2016 to ensure continuity of the company’s vision.
In a recent interview with How To Spend It, the Financial Times supplement, Giorgio Armani reiterated this succession plan: “My succession plan consists of gradually transferring the responsibilities I have always assumed to those closest to me, such as Leo Dell’Orco, to family members and to the entire team.” He added, “I would like the succession to be organic and not a moment of rupture.”
The founder controlled 99.9% of Giorgio Armani SpA, with the Giorgio Armani Foundation holding the remaining 0.1%. In 2024, the group employed nearly 8,700 people globally and posted €2.3 billion in revenue — a 6% drop from the previous year. Net profit also fell sharply, from €163 million in 2023 to €51.6 million. Europe accounts for 49% of revenue, with the Americas and Asia-Pacific each contributing 21%.
Armani meticulously prepared for this transition. The company’s revised articles of association were first approved in 2016 and finalized in September 2023. These statutes will take formal effect upon the opening of the succession. According to press reports at the time, the structure includes various share categories and voting rights, with a potential public listing allowed five years after the statutes take effect. Furthermore, 75% of shareholders must approve any mergers, spin-offs, amendments, or capital increases at an extraordinary general meeting.
During the transition, management may be handled by a select leadership committee. Creatively, Armani leaves behind a globally recognized design language and aesthetic. For now, it’s difficult to imagine another designer stepping into his shoes. The in-house design studio, led in part by Leo Dell’Orco, is expected to continue developing upcoming collections.
The responsibility of preserving the brand’s identity and value, estimated to be worth between €6 billion and €12 billion, depending on the analysts, will rest with the family and senior leadership. How this heritage is managed and evolved in the near future will shape Giorgio Armani SpA’s trajectory — and may invite interest from global luxury groups and investment funds.
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The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.