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Giorgio Armani remembered – FashionNetwork

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September 4, 2025

Giorgio Armani, who passed away peacefully among his family in Milan on Thursday, will be remembered as one of the greatest single Italian designers and the figure who spearheaded the remarkable renaissance of Italian fashion in the post-war era.

Giorgio Armani, celebrated for his timeless elegance and humanity. – Gruppo Armani

It’s hard to overstate the importance of Armani in fashion and design, especially following his passing, and his remarkable name recognition wherever one travels. In fact, if one were to ask a passing stranger to name a fashion designer, Giorgio Armani would be the most likely choice.

Those of us who had the honor to spend time with Armani – from Milan to New York, from Shanghai to Tokyo – were always struck by the easy grace with which he handled fame. When meeting Giorgio, Gulf sheiks placed their hands on their hearts; in Hong Kong he stopped traffic when strolling to lunch; in Milan shows movie stars and Oscar winners greeted him backstage with the deepest of bows. Once, when walking with him near the Spanish Steps in Rome, a passerby stopped him and insisted on kissing his hand. Which he gently accepted, before turning to me in a Shakespearean aside: “You know, I didn’t pay her ahead of time to do that!”

Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week, presenting his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, September 22, 2022. - Reuters
Giorgio Armani at Milan Fashion Week, presenting his Spring/Summer 2023 collection, September 22, 2022. – Reuters

Though he became enormously wealthy and famous, he wore his success with levity and grace. He spoke to young assistants, security guards or total strangers with the same avuncular tone with which he addressed heads of state. Though courtly, precise and ironic in manner, Armani could have a volcanic temper, but only when he felt his own exacting standards were not being met.

Giorgio Armani with a kitten, reflecting his love for animals and his famously softer side. “Yes, I love cats,” he told ELLE Decor. - DR
Giorgio Armani with a kitten, reflecting his love for animals and his famously softer side. “Yes, I love cats,” he told ELLE Decor. – DR

Today, it’s impossible to travel to any major city and not find some of Armani’s influence. His various elegant collections – Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange – along with his network of Armani cafés, Armani/Dolci and Armani/Casa stores all herald the blend of refined minimalism and Oriental fantasy that was his signature style.

And in an era when just about every designer sold control of their brand – Dior, Chanel, Valentino and Versace, to name a few – Armani left this life as the sole owner of his massive empire. Last year alone, Armani scored a net profit of €398 million on a turnover of €2.3 billion.

Armani Café in Dubai, one of the brand’s many lifestyle ventures alongside Armani/Dolci and Armani/Casa. - DR
Armani Café in Dubai, one of the brand’s many lifestyle ventures alongside Armani/Dolci and Armani/Casa. – DR

Although he left his hometown of Piacenza in the early 1950s to study medicine in Milan, after completing two years of compulsory military service, he shifted his career and became a window dresser in Italy’s largest department store, La Rinascente. That early training in display and editing remained with him all his life, as I noticed on a journey with Armani to open his first hotel inside the world’s tallest building – the Burj Khalifa in Dubai in 2006. During a morning visit to an Armani café in a mall, Giorgio spent 45 minutes altering lighting, repositioning chairs, straightening waiters’ shirts and folding napkins just so.

Like a true aesthete, he devoted his life to creation, and only when he was 100 percent satisfied would he consider socializing. On another occasion, I spent a day following Giorgio when he staged his first “Armani One Night Only” in London, an outlandishly cool and huge bash to support the fight against AIDS in Africa and Bono’s charity RED. Staged inside Earl’s Court, done up like an Ibiza nightclub, with Leonardo DiCaprio, Alicia Keys, Lady Helen Taylor and Minnie Driver in the audience; Elle MacPherson and James Franco serving as MCs. After several runway shows, Beyoncé performed “Crazy in Love”; Bryan Ferry sang “Slave to Love”; and Alicia Keys and Andrea Bocelli serenaded Giorgio. But what most sticks in my mind was the night before, when Giorgio was meticulously editing the collections, and his communications director quietly reminded him he was expected at a dinner in his honor with Tony Blair. Whereupon Armani harrumphed: “Qui, sto lavorando! Here, I am working!” dismissing the very idea he might leave a job early to meet a prime minister. Forget that.

An autodidact, Armani received his first lessons in making clothes from his mother and would later name both of his fabulous superyachts Mariù in her honor. After spending a decade working his way up in fashion, Giorgio—encouraged by his partner Sergio Galeotti—first opened a design office, then launched his own brand in 1975, reportedly financed by the sale of his Volkswagen.

Giorgio Armani reviewing designs in his Milan studio during the 1970s. - DR
Giorgio Armani reviewing designs in his Milan studio during the 1970s. – DR

By October 1975, Giorgio staged his first menswear collection to immediate acclaim. It was a pivotal moment when a group of exceptionally talented Italian designers—Gianni Versace, Gianfranco Ferré, Valentino Garavani, among others—began utilizing Italy’s exceptional artisans and clothing manufacturing to challenge France’s long-time leadership in fashion. A movement where Armani was the de facto leader among some brilliant peers, often nicknamed Il Re della Moda or Imperatore Giorgio. Generally, Giorgio remained very publicly respectful of his peers, though he certainly did not like any of their clothes being mixed with his—except for the high‑octane Versace, whose dazzle seemed to offend him.

And whereas practically every designer on the planet hired an independent stylist to help create their campaigns, Armani never did, to avoid any digression from his strictest fashion vision. Giorgio’s style was always a balancing act – the perfect silhouettes of his menswear combined with the opulent delicacy of his couture.

Enamored, like most Italians, of movies, it was cinema that catapulted Armani into global prominence when he created the wardrobe of Richard Gere in the 1980 film “American Gigolo.” The famed scene of Gere tossing beautiful Armani shirts onto a bed before deciding on a suitable seductive outfit expressed a new era of modern elegance and the suddenly vital role of fashion in contemporary living. It also linked Giorgio indelibly to cinema, where he would go on to costume over 100 films—from “The Untouchables” and “The Dark Knight Rises” to “Ocean’s Thirteen” and “Inglourious Basterds.” Since “American Gigolo,” no Armani front row was complete without half a dozen movie stars joining football greats, sporting superstars and cultural icons at his shows.

Giorgio Armani fitting a gown backstage, demonstrating his meticulous attention to detail. - DR
Giorgio Armani fitting a gown backstage, demonstrating his meticulous attention to detail. – DR

Two decades ago in Cannes, he kindly invited me to supper on Mariù I, a beautiful boat with a black hull, pale wood paneling, and muted non‑colors—the diametric opposite of a typical superyacht. Then, when a fresh group of about a dozen people appeared after an evening screening—including the likes of Kevin Klein and Sheryl Crow—Giorgio had his three handsome chefs whip up a large bowl of simple but delicious pasta made with just olives, garlic, pepperoncino and Parmesan. Before insisting on personally serving everyone himself, something I never saw any other designer do.

For many years, he staged most of his shows in his own private show‑space in his headquarters on central Via Borgonuova, which is where I first met him as the young, freshly appointed editor‑in‑chief of Vogue Hommes in 1995. Having spent five years in Italy, I was able to converse with him in Italian. Armani spoke excellent French, though, like many pre‑war‑born Italians, his English was limited.

Giorgio Armani with FashionNetwork.com Global Editor-in-Chief Godfrey Deeny at Milan Moda Uomo, January 2025. - DR
Giorgio Armani with FashionNetwork.com Global Editor-in-Chief Godfrey Deeny at Milan Moda Uomo, January 2025. – DR

I proudly showed off my first edition, which included a wonderful shoot by Albert Watson titled “Mafia Crooner.” Featuring a dashing Latin couple, the man looking sensational in a classic cement‑hued Armani double‑breasted jacket inside a café in Little Italy. Giorgio seemed suitably impressed and shook my hand firmly as he exited our meeting, before later finding me at the door of his palazzo, evidently irate. “Have you seen this!?” he said, showing off the shot of the crooner in his jacket. “Somebody has put an appalling Vivienne Westwood tie on my jacket! Allora?” he bristled. To which I responded, “Sorry, Signor Armani, but you know how difficult it is to control stylists.” To which he replied, placated: “Finally, an editor who knows what he is talking about!”

Later shows were staged in South Milan inside Armani/Teatro, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, inside a former Nestlé chocolate factory. It is where Armani’s coffin will be set up in a funeral chamber all this weekend, open to the public. It was also the site of his last show in June, when he was too frail to take a bow, and his right‑hand man, Leo Dell’Orco, took the bow. A faithful partner to the end, who is expected to continue to guide the house with Armani’s surviving sister, nieces, and nephews.

Even into his 90s, Giorgio never slowed down. He staged another One Night Only last November with a star‑packed show inside the New York Armory, where Orlando Bloom, Liev Schreiber and Pamela Anderson posed proudly.

Giorgio Armani with models at his “One Night Only” show in New York—an emblem of his vision bridging haute couture and immersive spectacle.
Giorgio Armani with models at his “One Night Only” show in New York—an emblem of his vision bridging haute couture and immersive spectacle. – Courtesy

The day before, Giorgio had unveiled yet another project— a brand‑new $400 million complex named Armani Residences on Madison Avenue. It includes three floors of retail space, two restaurants and more than a score of apartments. Giorgio reserved the penthouse for himself. In fact, many days in his final decade were spent building Armani hotels and residences, with a series of luxury towers due to open in the coming years.

Armani Residences Diriyah
Armani Residences Diriyah – DR

Giorgio’s day last November began with a personal appearance at his boutique in Bergdorf Goodman, signing copies of his book Per Amore. Outside, ten windows of the world’s most luxurious department store were customized with looks from Armani men’s and women’s collections. An elegant celebration of his historic ties with Bergdorf—the first American store to carry the Giorgio Armani men’s collection back in the 1980s. All told, yet another remarkable two days by the Italian maestro, the designer who never seemed to sleep in the city that never sleeps.

Giorgio Armani with models after a show, celebrating the effortless elegance that defined his collections. - DR
Giorgio Armani with models after a show, celebrating the effortless elegance that defined his collections. – DR

At the time, I asked Giorgio what he hoped his legacy would be, and he responded: “The legacy I hope to leave is one of dedication, respect and an eye for reality. Success in fashion comes from observing people, understanding their needs and creating clothes that meet those needs. At the heart of it, I focus on making beautiful garments. Fashion is a serious but deeply rewarding profession.”

Summing up his life—the greatest brand builder in Italian design, the hardest‑working designer I ever met, and a gentleman who left this earth a far better place than he found it.

In a very real sense, Armani became far more important than being an iconic fashion designer. The greater Italian public, and indeed an international audience, treated Giorgio like the president of Italian style and taste. His longevity and his devotion to his art made him a hallowed figure. In future years, when people come to write fresh histories of Italy, Armani will be ranked with Galileo, Leonardo Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Christopher Columbus—and deservedly so. Beyond his fashion empire, hundreds of stores, Armani Casa skyscrapers and a massive perfume business, his aesthetic has influenced the past half‑century more than any other living designer. In an era of style, he was the Doge of design.

The Imperatore has left us, and we will not see his like again.

On the runway, Armani’s vision endures, even as the Imperatore takes his final bow. - DR
On the runway, Armani’s vision endures, even as the Imperatore takes his final bow. – DR

 

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Following the Far East, Testoni turns to Europe, focuses on the US and Middle East

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January 21, 2026

Testoni hails from Bologna, Italy, but in 2022 the luxury footwear and accessories maker came under the umbrella of Chinese group Viva China, which controls the Li Ning brand (which has just shown at Milan Men’s Fashion Week) and the British brand Clarks, having previously been acquired by Hong Kong-based Sitoy Group in 2018. The Emilia-based label, founded in 1929 and specialising in men’s footwear, has since placed greater emphasis on womenswear and, following a rebrand from a.testoni to Testoni 1929, in 2025 opened a 200 square-metre flagship on Via Manzoni in Milan.

Testoni, “Bracciano” moccasin, AW 2026/27

The Milan boutique is part of the brand’s relaunch plan. In the same vein, the company has taken on a larger showroom to support retail and wholesale activities, at Via Sant’Andrea 21, where the presentation of the Autumn-Winter 2026/27 collection was held. “We currently operate 30 single-brand stores; we have just opened a new one in Taipei,” Philip Yau, CEO of Testoni, tells FashionNetwork.com. “They are located mostly in Asia- in China, Japan, South Korea and, indeed, Taipei. But after focusing on the Far East, we now want to look more to Europe, with Italy as a starting point, and then move on to the US.”

“We had a presence in America in the past, but we had closed the business there. Now we will reopen that market, where we were selling 10 million shoes every year. We have a large distribution centre in Hanover, near Philadelphia. Retailers such as Macy’s and Nordstrom, with whom we have established contacts, can help us successfully resume business in that market,” continues Yau, who is also aiming for “operational, logistics, marketing and other synergies with the brands Clarks and Li Ning and with the group’s market reach.” “Asia remains a strong base for us at Viva China, where we own many companies,” he says.

Testoni, 'Moena' laser-cut sneaker, AW 2026/27
Testoni, “Moena” laser-cut sneaker, AW 2026/27

There are around 60 multi-brand stores that sell Testoni, making distribution highly selective at the top end. “Testoni has always been a more retail-oriented brand, but we are working to expand into wholesale as well, which we believe can be a strong driver of growth,” adds Testoni’s general manager, Enzo Vaccari. “So wholesale expansions are planned, especially in the US and other overseas markets. Nor are we neglecting e-commerce, which is quite small at present. It can do much more; we will work on it by leveraging the synergies we can establish with Clarks’ platform.”

Autumn-Winter 2026/27 has seen an increase in men’s styles and focuses on the Testoni brand’s core offer: loafers, moccasins, clean lines, no eccentricities, underscoring its craftsmanship. “In three years we will celebrate our 100th anniversary, so we have a very rich archive that could certainly form the basis of a museum,” Vaccari adds. “It is one of our dreams, because in our archive there are original products from the 1940s through the 1950s and 1960s, and we have all the original designs by Marisa Testoni, the daughter of Amedeo Testoni, the founder. At the moment, these materials are kept in Piazza XX Settembre, near the Montagnola in Bologna, but we are working to rethink the space and reorganise everything properly. We wanted Bologna to be the focal point of this project, because it is the city where we were born, where the company’s history lies.”

Testoni, AW 2026/27
Testoni, AW 2026/27

Testoni also makes handbags, another line that has expanded in terms of styles, while men still account for 70% of revenue and production. “However, we are trying to achieve a better balance between the collections: we need to develop more bags dedicated to women,” Yau notes.

From a financial standpoint, the official 2025 year-end has yet to be finalised, so Philip Yau does not intend to disclose Testoni’s annual turnover, which nonetheless grew in the single digits. The leading markets are China, Taiwan and Hong Kong combined- Greater China- accounting for 40%, followed by Japan. “But the US is and will be a key market for Testoni and for the entire Viva China group, as is the Middle East, not only through wholesale distribution but also via retail openings currently under consideration,” explains Enzo Vaccari. “In America we have just returned; we want to find a major retailer, like Macy’s, which has more than 300 doors. In the meantime, there will be consolidation of retail in Asia, where we are looking at other markets, such as Singapore and Malaysia, which we would like to enter within a couple of years, depending on the opportunities that arise.”

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Jaden Smith dreams up a Dadaist debut at Christian Louboutin

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January 21, 2026

Add designer to Jaden Smith’s considerable list of professions- along with actor, singer, and rapper- after the Californian creator dreamed up an impressive Dadaist display for his debut at Christian Louboutin.

Jaden Smith’s take on the world of Christian Louboutin – FashionNetwork.com

 
Evoking a whole plethora of influences from Greek mythology and the Great Paris Exhibitions to Dadaism and the great movement for Civil Rights, in an elaborate set in a disused warehouse in Montparnasse. Mount Parnassus, you will recall, was the home to nine muses in arts and sciences.
 
Two fine works of footwear even had Greek names: The Plato Loafer, a 2017 model with Swisscheese like holes, which Smith updates with the new Neo CL signature on a steel silver coin. And the Asclepius Sling- named after the ancient god of medicine- with the same emblematic coin detail and metallic hardware on the backstrap.

“I brought my personal interest on Greek mythology in as I thought it would resonate with people, as humans at the end of the day are all very similar. I’m combining my perspective of being an African American designer, linked to my more Dadaist thinking into the heritage of a French maison,” explained courteous 27-year-old.

Mythology meets luxury
Mythology meets luxury – FashionNetwork.com

 
Close by stood a Nam June Paik worthy mound of TVs, with video showing images of Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington, The Sphinx, and clips from Dadaist filmmaker Hans Richter.
 
“That art piece is about the overdose of information we experience. This revolution that we are in the midst of right now. And the fact that information is being thrown at us all the time. And the psychological effects of looking at 10 screens at the one time. While also drawing correlations between my ancestry and Christian’s ancestry, and the history of art,” said Smith, attired in a giant gangster jeans, an oversized parka and pearl encrusted beanie.
 
Another installation was a broken temple with fluted columns on which were perched Jaden’s new bags.  Notably a series of humungous backpacks and biker satchels, some with a dozen exterior zippered pockets with gold lettering reading- coins, pills, keys, tools, phone, documents, phones, and chargers. Alongside a surrealist tote finished like a bucket of overflowing paint and a Dadaist style back made in a black and white photo of an urban madding crowd.

Creator Jaden Smith
Creator Jaden Smith – FashionNetwork.com

 
The whole space was dubbed Christian Louboutin Men’s Exhibition, as a small group of models bathed, inevitably, in red light, circulated wearing the new footwear and bags. Large red fabric rolls made into benches allowed one to enjoy a large video montage, including Jaden as a Wagnerian hero posed in front of gothic castles. Which is where we spotted founder Christian Louboutin, in a video stirring a large vat of red paint, before symbolically handing over a paintbrush to Jaden.
 
“It’s about craftmanship, extreme luxury, and highest level of design. That’s what Christian Louboutin is all about,” said Smith, describing the brand’s DNA.
 
Eyebrows were raised when Christian appointed Jaden to the position of creative director, as Parisian designers with two decades long CVs gritted their teeth that an untrained talent got such a coveted position. However, judging by this display, Jaden Smith has the chops, talent, and grace to be very effective in this role.
 
One suspects the gods of style and time are probably rather pleased.

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The Denim Lab project examines the environmental impact of denim at Milan Fashion Week

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January 21, 2026

To coincide with Milan Fashion Week, the S|STYLE 2025- Denim Lab is setting up at Fondazione Sozzani for an edition devoted to the future of sustainable denim and water management in the textile industry. Led by the S|STYLE Sustainable Style platform, founded in 2020 by independent journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini, this initiative forms part of an ongoing programme of research and experimentation into responsible innovations applied to contemporary fashion.

Designers brought together for the S|STYLE 2025 – Denim Lab project – Denim Lab

The exhibition, open to the public on September 27 and 28, features a site-specific art installation by Mariano Franzetti, crafted from recycled and regenerative denim. Conceived as an immersive experience, it brings fashion design, technological innovation and artistic expression into dialogue.

Water: a central issue in fashion sustainability

Developed in collaboration with Kering‘s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), the Denim Lab brings together a selection of young international designers invited to create a denim look using low-impact materials and processes. They benefit from technical support and access to textiles developed with innovative technologies aimed at significantly reducing water consumption, chemical use, and the carbon footprint of denim production.

This edition places water at its core, an essential issue for a fabric whose production has traditionally demanded substantial volumes of water, from cotton cultivation through to dyeing and finishing. Denim therefore serves as an emblematic testing ground, both familiar and closely associated with the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.

Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants
Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants – Maison Gisèle

The fabrics were developed by PureDenim Srl, a specialist in low-impact dyeing techniques, while treatments and finishes were applied by Tonello Srl, a recognised leader in sustainable washing and finishing technologies. The selected designers, from Europe, Asia, and Africa, each offer a distinctive interpretation of denim, blending formal exploration, textile innovation and reflection on the contemporary uses of clothing.

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