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From forest to sea: Italian jeweler Buccellati enchanted visitors with “Naturalia” at Fuorisalone

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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April 14, 2025

Buccellati, the historic Italian fine jewelry and silverware house, recently invited the public to explore a multisensory journey through nature and craftsmanship at Fuorisalone 2025. Founded in Milan in 1919 by visionary artisan Gianmaria Buccellati, the brand welcomed the press on April 7 for an exclusive preview of its immersive “Naturalia” exhibition. 

Buccellati “Naturalia” – E.P. – FashionNetwork.com

Designed to celebrate the beauty of nature, the show paired curated creations from the house’s archives with newly conceived designs. Long considered a benchmark for Italian artisanal excellence, Buccellati is particularly renowned for its ornate high-end silverwork and intricate craftsmanship.

“Naturalia” featured animal-shaped jewels crafted with striking realism using traditional techniques at the brand’s Italian workshops. The concept and production were entrusted to Balich Wonder Studio (BWS), which created three experiential realms—the forest, the mountains, and the sea—featuring immersive soundscapes and site-specific installations. Studio Mary Lennox collaborated on the botanical design, integrating digital elements with lush florals. The exhibition ran from April 8 to 13 in Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa, Milan.

Buccellati, Naturalia'
Buccellati, Naturalia” – E.P. – FashionNetwork.com

“This year, we returned to exhibit at Tefaf in Maastricht, the world’s most renowned antiques fair, where we had not participated since 2014,” said Nicolas Luchsinger, the Swiss CEO of Buccellati for exactly one year, in a statement to FashionNetwork.com.

“In St. Moritz, we unveiled ‘Convivium Montis,’ an installation created in collaboration with the design studio david/nicolas, featuring the ‘Matterhorn’ collection—inspired by the Matterhorn peak—as the centerpiece. We also partnered with the Saatchi Gallery for the exhibition ‘Flowers: Flora in Contemporary Art and Culture,’ currently on display in London through May, where we presented six floral-motif brooches as a tribute to our brand identity.”

Buccellati's 'Naturalia' poster
Buccellati’s “Naturalia” poster – DR

“Among our upcoming projects, we will launch a capsule collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris. At the retail level, we’ve recently renovated and expanded our boutique in Capri. Most notably, we will open a new store in Florence on Via Tornabuoni later this year—a homecoming for us,” the CEO added. “Next will be a Buccellati flagship in Dubai Mall and further openings or relocations of our current stores in China.”

Buccellati 'Naturalia'
Buccellati “Naturalia” – E.P. – FashionNetwork.com

The company operates a fine jewelry atelier in Milan, two workshops in Valenza, one in the province of Como, and another in Zola Predosa near Bologna. “It takes no less than six months to train a craftsman to produce Buccellati pieces,” Nicolas  Luchsinger concluded.

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Canada’s Frank and Oak stores to shutter nationwide on IP sale

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Montreal-based UCG Canada Holdings Inc., which operates as clothing brand Frank and Oak, is set to shutter all 14 of its retail locations in the coming weeks and will sell off its intellectual property as part of a broader wind-down.

Frank and Oak stores to shutter nationwide. – Frank and Oak

The company is being sold to Quebec-based manufacturer Lamour Group, as well as Quebec company Thread Collective, whose brand portfolio includes Bebe, Psycho Bunny, Hurley, and Pajar, among others. While the brand itself will continue to operate, UCG Canada Holdings Inc. is expected to file for bankruptcy and cease all operations.

All 14 Frank and Oak stores, located across Quebec, Ontario, and British Columbia, are scheduled to close by May 18. The brand’s website will remain operational throughout the liquidation process.

Founded in 2012 by longtime friends Hicham Ratnani and Ethan Song, Frank and Oak began as a menswear e-commerce brand before expanding into brick-and-mortar retail and launching its first women’s collection in 2016.

The company is among several Canadian retailers that struggled to recover from the economic impact of the Covid-19 pandemic. Frank and Oak initially sought creditor protection in 2020, leading to the sale of UCG Canada Holdings later that year.

In a second blow, UCG filed again for creditor protection in January 2025. According to court filings, the retailer currently owes approximately $71 million to its creditors.

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Coty to cut 700 jobs in transformation push

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Coty announced on Thursday that it will restructure in key markets as part of the next phase of its “All-in to Win” transformation program, a move expected to impact approximately 700 positions. 

Coty to cut 700 jobs in transformation push. – Coty

The global beauty giant, which owns a portfolio of major brands across fragrance, cosmetics, and skincare, is aiming to simplify and scale its operating model, reduce complexity, and sharpen its focus on top innovation and market priorities.

The strategic initiative builds on the company’s efforts launched in fiscal year 2020 at the height of the Covid-19 pandemic, which successfully delivered over $700 million in savings from FY21 to FY24, alongside major gains in gross margin, brand investment, and EBITDA.

“We are committed to building a stronger, more resilient Coty that is well-positioned for sustainable growth,” said Sue Nabi, CEO of Coty. 

“This next phase of our transformation program will further strengthen our operating model and simplify our fixed cost structure. We fully anticipate these changes will strongly position Coty to outperform the beauty market in the coming years, cementing our global leadership position in fragrances while expanding into certain growing and profitable beauty categories, all while steadily expanding our gross margins and EBITDA margins.”

The company also plans to enhance the impact of its innovation pipeline by identifying launch priorities earlier and focusing resources on fewer, more significant initiatives. Additionally, Coty will structurally reduce non-people fixed costs across all areas of spending.

The initiative is projected to generate approximately $130 million in annual fixed cost savings before taxes, including about $80 million in FY26 and $50 million in FY27. Coty expects one-time cash costs of around $80 million for the program, split evenly between FY26 and FY27. 

Coty will also maintain its existing productivity program, targeting $120 million in savings in FY25, primarily through improvements in supply chain and procurement.

Together, the new fixed cost reduction measures and ongoing productivity initiatives are expected to yield nearly $500 million in savings from FY25 through FY27.

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Francois Pinault’s wealth slides as heir fails to revive Gucci

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Bloomberg

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April 24, 2025

Francois Pinault, the octogenarian founder of Kering SA, has seen his family’s fortune drop by more than two-thirds since a pandemic-era boom as his son struggles to turn around the French luxury conglomerate’s biggest brand, Gucci.

Gucci – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The 88-year-old Pinault’s net worth has fallen by 69% to $18.6 billion from August 2021, according to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index. That’s the largest decline over that period in dollar terms of anyone on the list, including Bernard Arnault, the founder of rival LVMH, which has also been hit by a drop in demand for high-end goods. 

Kering’s stock price performance is frustrating and “not brilliant at all,” son Francois-Henri Pinault, who is chairman and chief executive officer, told shareholders Thursday at an annual meeting in Paris. “It’s a significant drop that I know brings you disappointment and financial implications.” 

The 62-year-old heir has been trying to turn around Gucci for a couple of years, but this week’s report showing a 25% quarterly drop in comparable revenue laid bare just how deeply troubled the brand has become under his stewardship. Since Gucci’s performance started to disappoint in 2022, Kering has undergone a series of corporate management overhauls and changed Gucci’s top designers twice — moves that have so far failed to reignite demand for the once-hot label. 

In 2024, Francois-Henri Pinault, or FHP as he’s known, called the previous year “trying” and said the focus was on revitalizing Gucci. At that time, his hopes were still set on designer Sabato De Sarno. Fast forward to this week and the CEO is now pinning Gucci’s future and his fortune on a replacement, Demna Gvasalia, who goes by the mononym Demna. 

Restoring the desirability of Kering’s brands will revive the shares, he said Thursday in response to a question from an investor about the stock price, which has dropped 27% this year.

While acknowledging that Demna’s nomination wasn’t well-received by the financial markets, the CEO said the choice was an obvious one because he’s “one of the most influential and talented designers of his generation.”

The loss of wealth for the Pinault family is remarkable even amid a more general decline in the luxury sector and global market turbulence triggered by President Donald Trump’s tariffs. Demand in China has weakened for expensive designer clothes and fine wines, which has also hurt LVMH. 

The younger Pinault took the helm about two decades ago and was instrumental in focusing the empire on luxury from a hodge-podge of retail assets. During his tenure, Kering has remained largely dependent on Gucci, whose success in the cutthroat fashion industry has ebbed and flowed over the years. The Pinault clan holds a 42% stake and 59% of voting rights in Paris-based Kering.

Both he and his father are managing partners of Groupe Artemis, the family’s holding company with consolidated assets valued at about €60 billion ($68 billion), according to its website. Artemis’ investments include Puma, Creative Artists Agency, prestigious vineyards, Christie’s auction house, luxury cruise company Ponant as well as tech and media assets.   

The younger Pinault’s siblings, Laurence and Dominique, are chair and vice chair of the Artemis supervisory board, respectively, and each now has a child on the board. They include Francois-Henri’s son, Francois Louis Pinault, who joined the board of Christie’s last year, and Dominique Pinault’s daughter, Gaelle Pinault. 

Laurence Pinault’s daughter, Olivia Fournet, is also retail and international development director at Kering brand Balenciaga after starting at the group about a decade ago, according to her LinkedIn profile. 
 



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