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French ready-to-wear ends 2025 caught between collapse and hope

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December 29, 2025

Under pressure from fast fashion and the second-hand market, the French ready-to-wear sector is faltering, with bankruptcies, receiverships, and liquidations punctuating 2025. Even so, experts believe a rebound is possible, driven by a refocus on brand DNA, innovation, and an upmarket shift.

In mid-December, IKKS was taken over by the duo of Saint James and Santiago Cucci – IKKS

As the year draws to a close, the IKKS brand has just changed hands but will lose half its staff; JOTT (Just Over The Top) has been placed in receivership; and Anne Fontaine has had its safeguard plan approved. With Camaïeu, Kookaï, Jennyfer, André, San Marina, Minelli, Comptoir des Cotonniers, Princesse Tam Tam, and Kaporal, there are countless French companies in difficulty in this sector, or that have simply disappeared.

Brutal “impoverishment” and “downfall”

Nearly 1,500 clothing boutiques closed in France in 2024, according to a parliamentary report. The Union des Industries Textiles reports that the workforce has shrunk from 400,000 in the 1970s to 60,000 today. This figure does not, however, include in-store employees- 70,000 at the end of 2023, according to the Fédération nationale de l’habillement.

Having weathered the difficult shift to online sales, as well as Covid-19 and inflation, traditional players are now facing competition from second-hand and ultra-fast fashion- a “profound upheaval”, according to Gildas Minvielle, Director of the Economic Observatory at the French Fashion Institute (IFM). According to the IFM, these two channels now account for 13% of sales by value and nearly 30% of volumes purchased.

Historic players shaken up

Gildas Minvielle tells AFP: “The market share taken by these new entrants is very significant, and very damaging for the more established players. If the market had been buoyant, we could have hoped there would be room for everyone, but that’s not the case.” With an average price per item on Shein or Temu of €9- around one third of traditional mid-range prices- these Asian groups are causing a brutal “impoverishment,” “in a context where purchasing power is weak,” he says.

The battle between fast fashion and established players has reached parliamentary chambers
The battle between fast fashion and established players has reached parliamentary chambers – Assemblée nationale

To get to the root of the “downfall,” we need to travel back to the 1990s with the “arrival of first-generation fast-fashion brands” such as Zara and H&M, offering “collections that change every week to force people to buy,” says Benoît Heilbrunn, a philosopher and marketing professor at ESCP Business School.

Clear positioning and an industrial model for survival

“French chains haven’t been able to keep up, because they didn’t have and still don’t have an industrial model,” points out the brand specialist, while 97% of textiles consumed in France are imported. The other problem is that “French textile brands have had nothing to say for years,” he laments. “No one talks about innovation, no one talks about product.”

Françoise Clément, a fashion and retail expert, agrees and points to brands that have remained in their “comfort zone,” seeking to “buy the consumer with promotions” but that ultimately “have not created value.” According to this consultant, a former textile director at Carrefour, brands must reconnect with their “core DNA” and offer “clear positioning” to survive.

A “death spiral” of prices at the low end

The ready-to-wear sector is like “an hourglass,” she says, using a metaphor: the top of the hourglass (luxury and “heritage” brands) remains solid thanks to prestige. At the lower end, it’s a race to the bottom on price, with a “death spiral” that nonetheless finds its audience. In between, the mid-range is the segment “most in difficulty.”

Mid-range brands must “diversify and premiumise” and above all avoid imitating fast fashion, says Françoise Clément. The future requires a balance between “quality, attractiveness, innovation, and desirability,” as seen at “Lacoste or Aigle,” or Le Slip Français, for made-in-France production, or at Decathlon, which combines “accessibility and innovation.” The clothing crisis is “not inevitable,” she insists. Far from the prevailing “gloom,” “opportunities” exist for “brands that get moving.”

The annual State of Fashion BoF-McKinsey report lists several strategic areas for development: the “necessary” use of artificial intelligence, diversification of production sites in the face of the “turbulence” of international tariffs, moving upmarket, and the integration of a second-hand offer. A vast programme.

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Europeans present united front against Donald Trump’s threats of punitive tariffs

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January 19, 2026

Donald Trump continues to destabilise the international economic balance. On Saturday, the U.S. president once again strained relations with his longstanding partner, Europe.

Donald Trump at the White House, Washington, D.C. (United States), 16 January 2026 – AFP

In a lengthy statement on his social network, Truth Social, Trump threatened eight countries, including France, Germany and the UK, with additional tariffs in response to their opposition to his plans to seize Greenland, provoking indignation across Europe. On Sunday, ahead of a meeting of European Union (EU) ambassadors in Brussels, they responded by insisting they would remain “united.”

“Tariff threats undermine transatlantic relations and risk leading to a dangerous spiral. We will continue to remain united and coordinated in our response. We are determined to defend our sovereignty”, said Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway, Sweden and the UK.

Since his return to office a year ago, the American president has regularly spoken of taking control of the vast autonomous Danish territory, citing national security concerns in the face of Russian and Chinese advances in the Arctic.

He stepped up his rhetoric again on Saturday, following the dispatch in recent days of European troops to the vast island, as part of Danish manoeuvres.

“Denmark, Norway, Sweden, France, Germany, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands and Finland have travelled to Greenland for an unknown purpose. (…) These countries, playing this very dangerous game, have taken an unacceptable risk,” wrote the American president on Truth Social. “After centuries, it is time for Denmark to return it – world peace is at stake!” he thundered.

He threatened these countries with new tariffs until “an agreement is reached for the full and complete sale of Greenland.”

This 10% surcharge will take effect from February 1 and could rise to 25% by June 1. Since August 7, the United States has applied a floor rate of 15% for products originating in the European Union.

Before the return of the Trump administration, rates, particularly in the fashion sector, were generally below 7%. The current situation is likely to add to the uncertainty over customs arrangements. If Trump follows through on these threats, rates could potentially rise to 25% on February 1 and 40% on June 1.

‘Dangerous spiral’

The Republican has deployed trade barriers as a blunt instrument in international relations, including against Washington’s traditional partners. But he is taking an unprecedented step here: the United States, a pillar of NATO, is threatening its allies with sanctions in order to seize a territory belonging to one of its partners, Denmark, a sovereign and democratic country.

The European Union warned against a “dangerous spiral.”

“A very bad thing,” said British Prime Minister Keir Starmer, while his Swedish counterpart, Ulf Kristersson, asserted: “We will not be intimidated.”

The move was also condemned by Emmanuel Macron. “Tariff threats are unacceptable and have no place in this context. Europeans will respond in a united and coordinated way if they are confirmed. We will ensure that European sovereignty is respected,” wrote the French president on X, on Saturday evening.

“As members of NATO, we are determined to strengthen Arctic security, a common transatlantic interest,” the eight European countries said in a joint statement on Sunday.

“The pre-coordinated Danish exercise ‘Arctic Endurance’, conducted with our allies, meets this need. It poses no threat to anyone,” they stressed.

“We express our full solidarity with the Kingdom of Denmark and the people of Greenland. Building on the process begun last week, we are ready to engage in a dialogue based on the principles of sovereignty and territorial integrity that we firmly defend,” they added.

One of Greenland’s most prominent government ministers, Naaja Nathanielsen, welcomed the strong reactions, saying she was “grateful and full of hope.”
Danish foreign minister, Lars Løkke Rasmussen, said he was “surprised” by Trump’s announcements. Trump, who has said that he would “one way or another” seize Greenland, nevertheless said he was “immediately open to negotiations with Denmark and/or other European countries.”

‘Not for sale’

Danish and Greenlandic leaders were received in Washington on Wednesday, with Copenhagen noting the impossibility of reaching an immediate agreement.

Demonstration in Nuuk on January 17
Demonstration in Nuuk on January 17 – AFP

In Denmark and Greenland, several thousand demonstrators gathered on Saturday to denounce these territorial ambitions. In the centre of Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, protesters gathered under a light drizzle, wearing caps stamped “Make America Go Away” (a play on the MAGA slogan) and singing traditional Inuit songs, an AFP journalist observed on the ground.

In Copenhagen, a red-and-white human tide, in the colours of the Greenlandic and Danish flags, marched in front of the U.S. embassy, chanting the name of Greenland in Greenlandic: “Kalaallit Nunaat!” “Greenland is not for sale,” chanted demonstrators.

While the United States considers that Denmark is unable to guarantee security in the region, the Danish government points out that it has invested almost 90 billion kroner (12 billion euros) to strengthen its military presence in the Arctic.

France, Sweden, Germany and Norway, joined by the Netherlands, Finland, Slovenia and the UK, sent military personnel to the island this week for a reconnaissance mission as part of the Danish “Arctic Endurance” exercise organised with NATO allies.

According to the latest poll published in January, 85% of Greenlanders are opposed to Greenland becoming part of the United States. Only 6% are in favour.

With AFP

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Walmart reshuffles executive team ahead of Furner’s takeover as global CEO

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January 19, 2026

Walmart announced a series of executive changes on Friday as John Furner prepares to take over as CEO of the world’s largest retailer on February 1, replacing Doug McMillon.

Archivo

The moves aim to maintain the Bentonville, Arkansas-based retailer’s growth momentum and bellwether position in the industry by promoting four longtime executives and expanding their responsibilities.

David Guggina will become ‌CEO of Walmart’s largest division, Walmart U.S., replacing Furner in that role. Currently serving ​as chief e-commerce officer of Walmart U.S., Guggina has spent nearly eight years at the retailer in various positions, including executive vice president of supply chain operations.

The U.S. CEO position is highly coveted, as Walmart ‍typically promotes leaders from this division, which generates around two-thirds of its annual revenue, to the top corporate job.

Walmart also promoted Chris Nicholas to CEO of its $100 billion Walmart International division, a day after announcing that current head Kathryn ⁠McLay would leave the company. Nicholas currently leads Sam’s Club, where he will be replaced by the ‍chief merchandising officer for Walmart U.S., Latriece Watkins.

Additionally, Seth Dallaire, currently Walmart U.S. chief growth officer, will expand his responsibilities globally ‌as ‌chief growth officer of Walmart Inc, the company said in a statement.

All leadership changes take effect on February 1.

“These leadership changes mark a key step in how we organize for the future. Even the best teams need the right structure to win,” Furner said.

According to a company filing, Furner’s annual base salary is set at $1.5 ⁠million. He will receive ⁠a one-time stock award ​worth $10 million and be eligible for an annual equity award valued at approximately $17 million in fiscal 2027.

The moves come at a critical time for Walmart as it navigates domestic inflation pressures and strains on lower-income U.S. households. President Donald Trump‘s volatile ‍trade policies have weighed on the company’s operations and supply chain relationships with key growth markets, including China, India, and Mexico.

Despite these challenges, Walmart has performed strongly. The company has reported quarterly revenue growth for nearly a decade straight, and its shares ​hit a record high this week. The stock gained 21% in ‍2025, significantly outpacing the 1.3% rise in the S&P 500 Consumer Staples index. Walmart’s shares were flat at $118.67 in morning trading on ​Friday.

© Thomson Reuters 2026 All rights reserved.



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EU and Mercosur sign ‘historic’ trade agreement

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January 19, 2026

The Latin American countries of Mercosur and the European Union signed a “historic” treaty in Paraguay on Saturday, creating one of the world’s largest free-trade zones, despite concerns within both blocs. Together, they account for 30% of global GDP and more than 700 million consumers.

The free trade agreement between the European Union and Mercosur was signed on Saturday in Paraguay. – AFP

The agreement had been under negotiation since 1999 between the EU and the founding countries of Mercosur (Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay). A majority of EU member states have recently backed it, despite opposition from several, including France. Numerous demonstrations against the treaty have taken place in several EU countries, while large sections of civil society in Mercosur countries are also opposed.

“We choose fair trade over tariffs, a long-term productive partnership over isolation,” declared president of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen, shortly before signing the agreement.

“And above all, we intend to deliver concrete, tangible benefits to our people and our businesses,” she added.

It is a “clear signal in favour of international trade” in a context of “tensions”, said Santiago Peña, President of Paraguay, who currently holds Mercosur’s rotating presidency.

The treaty eliminates tariffs on more than 90% of bilateral trade and boosts European exports of cars, machinery, chemicals, wines and spirits. In return, it eases access to the European market for South American beef, poultry, sugar, rice, honey and soya beans, with duty-free quotas that are causing alarm among affected sectors.

The agreement comes at a time when U.S. President Donald Trump has spent the past year increasing a range of U.S. tariffs. On Saturday, Trump threatened to impose further tariffs of up to 25% on products from a number of European countries, “until the outright sale of Greenland.”

European and South American opponents

The president of the European Council, António Costa, said in Asunción on Saturday that the agreement sent “a message of defence of free trade, based on rules, multilateralism and international law as the basis for relations between countries and regions”, in contrast to the “instrumentalisation of trade for geopolitical ends.”

For its supporters, the EU-Mercosur agreement will help revive Europe’s ailing economy and strengthen diplomatic relations with Latin America.

But some also see the signing as a threat to sectors on both sides of the Atlantic. In South America, observers remain wary of the treaty’s effects, particularly on local industrial companies. In Argentina, the impact on the automotive industry could result in the loss of 200,000 jobs, according to estimates, notes Luciana Ghiotto, who holds a doctorate in social sciences from the University of Buenos Aires.

For its European detractors, it will disrupt agriculture with cheaper products that do not necessarily comply with EU standards, due to insufficient controls. It has met resistance from farmers and livestock producers in a number of European countries, who have mobilised in large-scale protests against its signing, in France, Poland, Ireland and Belgium.

To calm anger in the sector, the European Commission has drawn up a series of clauses and concessions in recent months, including strengthened guarantees for the most sensitive products. A large farmers’ rally is scheduled for next Tuesday in Strasbourg, outside the European Parliament, which must still vote on the treaty in the coming months.

However, beyond agriculture, the signing has pleased European business representatives. European business, which represents 28 European industry associations (ranging from construction to services, and also including the textile, clothing and footwear industries), welcomed the agreement on Saturday.

Euratex has been advocating for the agreement for months.

“According to Euratex data, in the first seven months of 2025, EU textile and clothing exports to Mercosur reached 299.5 million euros, an increase of 4.4% compared to the same period in 2024,” the federation noted in the autumn.

“Clothing exports saw a particularly strong rise, up 9.2%, while textile exports increased by 2%.”

A similar tone can be heard across many organisations. European business argues that “by 2040, the agreement is expected to add 77.6 billion euros to EU GDP, translating into a 39% increase in EU exports to Mercosur.”

Buoyed by the potential for their industries, the federations are now calling on MEPs to ratify the text.

Strasbourg is, therefore, likely to come under heavy pressure from both supporters and opponents of the agreement in the months ahead.

With AFP

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