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French authorities are investigating Chinese group AMTD’s acquisition of L’Officiel

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January 6, 2026

French prosecutors have opened an investigation into possible fraud linked to the acquisition of the publisher of L’Officiel, a century-old institution in fashion and luxury, by a Chinese group, following a complaint from the magazine’s historic owners, AFP has learned from the Paris prosecutor’s office and sources close to the case.

The magazine is published in many countries, notably in Asia and the Middle East. – L’Officiel

When questioned, the Paris prosecutor’s office said it had assigned the investigation to the financial investigations unit of the Paris judicial police, after receiving a complaint on March 5, 2025.

The Jalou family, which founded the publishing house behind L’Officiel, accuses AMTD, the Chinese conglomerate that took over the publishing group in 2022, of “trademark infringement, tax fraud, and misuse of corporate assets,” the prosecutor’s office said.

In the complaint, which AFP has seen, the plaintiffs accuse the Chinese investors of misappropriations that allegedly caused losses of “at least €40 million” to Éditions Jalou’s creditors.

When it was sold to the Hong Kong-based giant AMTD, the company was subject to a court-supervised restructuring plan. The plan, which runs until 2028, is explicit: it prohibits the disposal or transfer of the business and the trademarks.

However, since the takeover, “the strategy of the new owners has been to squander the company’s assets,” the Jalou family asserts.

They cite, for example, the unlawful registration of the “L’Officiel” trademark in around 40 countries through a foreign subsidiary registered in the British Virgin Islands, as well as schemes involving licence agreements that were terminated and then transferred to companies abroad.

For the Jalou family, all this amounts to “serious and repeated violations of the recovery plan,” which is intended to safeguard the interests of employees, URSSAF, the tax authorities, and suppliers.

“L’Officiel is a century-old institution of French fashion and cannot be treated as a mere speculative asset,” the Jalou family’s lawyers, Céline Bekerman and Antoine Cadeo, told AFP.

“We have full confidence in our country’s justice system to uphold the law and protect all creditors, first and foremost the French state in respect of its tax claims,” they added.

When contacted, AMTD, a conglomerate diversified across digital solutions, media, entertainment, and hospitality, did not respond.

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SFDA unveils finalists for inaugural New Wave Fashion Awards

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January 12, 2026

The SFDA Creative Talent Program announced on Friday the finalists of the inaugural New Wave Fashion Awards.

SFDA unveils finalists for inaugural New Wave Fashion Awards. – SFDA

After three months of open submissions and professional review, six finalists were selected: Chen Sifan by Sifan Chen, Angus Chiang by Angus Chiang, Moto Guo by Moto Guo and Kinder Huang, 8ON8 by Li Gong, Mayali by Maya Li, and Feng Chen Wang by Feng Chen Wang.

Conceived as a long-term talent incubation initiative rather than a one-off competition, the New Wave Fashion Awards positions itself as a platform for identifying and cultivating designers with multi-dimensional capabilities spanning product, aesthetics, narrative, and brand structure.

The framework is designed to mirror the responsibilities of a modern creative director, offering an alternative to traditional fashion awards that focus primarily on runway collections.

“We launched this creative talent support program to build a long-term, systematic, and future-oriented training mechanism to help China’s new generation of creative talents achieve leaps in continuous practice and move towards a clearer and more internationally-oriented development direction,” said Madame LV, EVP of SFDA and secretary-general of Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee. 

The New Wave Fashion Awards will culminate during AW26 Shanghai Fashion Week in late March. The six shortlisted designers will present comprehensive brand expressions on site, translating their concepts into immersive spatial experiences.

These presentations will be evaluated by a jury with international perspective and industry authority, drawing from global fashion media, retail and brand operations, as well as the public. 

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The sneaker boom had a long run. Now some analysts say it’s over

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Bloomberg

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January 11, 2026

For nearly two decades, sports brands benefited as people swapped out dress shoes for sneakers when heading everywhere from the airport to fancy restaurants and even the office.

Nike

That’s been a boon for Adidas AG, Nike Inc. and Puma SE, which capitalized on consumers’ changing tastes by serving up snazzy, comfy kicks that people wanted to wear on and off the playing field. The rising demand for sports shoes also underpinned the rapid growth of challengers like Hoka and On Holding AG, which emerged in the wake of the financial crisis and quickly became popular brands.

Now the future of that longstanding sneaker boom is being called into question, most notably by Bank of America analysts led by Thierry Cota. They rocked the footwear world last week with a 61-page analysis concluding that the growth prospects for these sports brands are rapidly dimming.

They argue that the sporting goods sector had enjoyed a 20-year “upcycle” that lifted sneakers from less than a quarter of world footwear sales to at least a half — a trend that culminated during the Covid pandemic, when millions of people were suddenly working from home. “With this structural shift largely complete, prospects for future revenue growth are now significantly reduced,” the analysts said.

They accompanied that view with a rare “double downgrade” of Adidas, abandoning their “buy” rating and declaring the stock one of the least attractive in the industry. 

Their contention that the sneaker boom has passed its peak prompted a backlash from skeptics who say the casual footwear trend has room to run. Longtime industry analyst Matt Powell, an adviser at consulting firm Spurwink River, conveyed that sentiment on LinkedIn, where he posted a Barron’s article about the research and commented: “C’mon, man! No evidence of this.”

Adidas shares plunged as much as 7.6% in response to the downgrade on Tuesday, before recovering part of those losses by the end of the week.

Sneakers now make up about 60% of footwear sales in the US, according to Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana in New York. Sport shoes have won over the population as part of a wider societal push toward comfort, health and wellness, priorities that probably aren’t going to disappear anytime soon, she said. The US sneaker category grew 4% last year through November, while the fashion category dropped 3%, she added.

“The sneaker business is larger than ever,” she said. “I wouldn’t even call casualization a trend — it’s just a key consumer preference.”

Yet the sneaker makers have run into headwinds since the pandemic as they sometimes failed to keep up with shoppers’ fickle tastes, saw sales cool particularly in China, and faced the threat of US tariffs. Shares of Adidas are down by almost a third in the past year, and even On Holding’s stock is down by more than 10% in the period, despite strong revenue growth.

“We don’t believe the casualization trend is over — rather, it has stabilized, with wardrobes now more balanced,” said Poonam Goyal, an analyst at Bloomberg Intelligence.

“The category has moved beyond the pandemic-driven demand spike and is now operating in a more normalized environment.”

There are signs that sneakers are bleeding into the dress shoe category. In 2025, the top-traded loafer on Stockx, an online resale platform, was the New Balance 1906L, which looks like the offspring of a preppy boat shoe and a marathon trainer. It’s also common these days to see movie stars and fashion influencers donning spiffed-up, expensive versions of trainers, often in collaboration with luxury brands like Gucci and Moncler.

The analysts at Bank of America didn’t suggest that people are going to ditch their sneakers for patent leather oxfords anytime soon. Rather, they indicated that sporting goods — after booming during the pandemic — have since mid-2023 been growing at a slower-than-average pace compared with the past couple of decades.

While that typically could mean the industry is poised to take off again, no big rebound is apparent, the analysts argued. They cited data ranging from recent credit card purchases to sluggish sales figures from Asian footwear and apparel suppliers to less-than-bullish commentary from industry leaders regarding the outlook for 2026.

If the sporting goods industry grew by an average of about 9% a year since 2007, as millions of people traded in dress shoes for sneakers, the future annual expansion may only be about 4% or 5%, they suggested.

Their optimistic take is that the industry is in a prolonged slump because of consumers fearing economic conditions and recent stumbles at Nike. That could mean that the sneaker boom still has legs and will resurge as early as 2027. 

“The alternative is much worse and more likely, in our view,” the Bank of America analysts added. “The emergence of a new, less favorable long-term industry paradigm.”
 



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As natural resources dwindle, luxury fashion must pursue sustainability says Square Management study

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January 11, 2026

Long defined by rarity, artisanal excellence, and desirability, the luxury sector now faces an unprecedented equation: how can it continue to create value without further increasing pressure on natural and social resources? This is the question addressed by the report “Business models for sustainable luxury,” published by the consultancy Square Management, which offers an in-depth analysis of the transformation of luxury business models through the lens of planetary boundaries.

Repair is one of the pillars of sustainable fashion – Shutterstock

The study’s first finding is that luxury occupies a strategic position in the ecological transition. With global sales of 364 billion euros in 2024 and considerable symbolic weight, it wields significant influence across the creative industries as a whole. Yet this influence plays out against a backdrop of multiple pressures: the growing scarcity of raw materials (gold, leather, cashmere); tighter regulation (the CSRD directive, the AGEC law, the Green Deal); the increasing integration of ESG criteria into financial valuation; evolving consumer expectations; and shifting cultural norms around consumption.

A strategy to be implemented globally

In the face of these shifts, the study shows that marginal adjustments are no longer enough and urges the luxury sector to undertake a profound transformation of its business models. To frame this reconfiguration, the report draws on the circular economy’s “9Rs” framework, which ranks sustainability strategies from the least to the most transformative, from recycling to calling into question overproduction.

The study highlights a wide variety of models already in play. The least ambitious strategies focus on waste-to-energy (Recover) or the recycling of raw materials (Recycle), with examples including Guerlain‘s refillable bottles and Prada‘s Re-Nylon line. More structurally significant are upcycling approaches (Repurpose, Remanufacture, Refurbish), which turn unsold items and dormant stock into creations with high symbolic value: Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Coach, and Jeanne Friot exemplify this blend of circularity, creativity, and storytelling.

Reducing production and buying less: two key ideas for sustainability

Repair is a crucial lever. By extending product lifespans, it avoids the most emissions-intensive stages of the life cycle. Maisons such as Hermès, Chanel, and Cartier have made it a pillar of their client relationships, while platforms such as Tilli are helping to structure this practice at scale. Re-use and rental are also fast-growing markets, driven by younger generations: 65% of luxury consumers say they are interested in buying second-hand, according to the “True-Luxury Global Consumer Insights” report (BCG-Altagamma, 2023), a figure that is rising steadily.

When it comes to sustainability, the luxury industry must embrace its leadership role by fundamentally transforming the way it operates.
When it comes to sustainability, the luxury industry must embrace its leadership role by fundamentally transforming the way it operates. – Shutterstock

The most transformative models are those aimed at reducing production itself, namely Reduce, Refuse (superfluous purchases), and Rethink. On-demand manufacturing, pre-orders or limited production, as practised by Gabriela Hearst or MaisonCléo, help limit unsold stock while reinforcing exclusivity. Some houses go further still, committing to regenerative models: Kering invests in regenerative agriculture, while Chloé embeds social and environmental impact at the heart of every product as a mission-driven company. However, the report emphasises that these transformations face major obstacles.

The limits of the “do less harm” philosophy

Internally, many obstacles are cited to the introduction of circular models: complex logistics, high costs, cognitive resistance, and a cultural attachment to ownership. To overcome these, the study’s authors identify several key factors, including enhanced traceability (notably via blockchain), co-opetition between players to pool costs and, above all, the ability to reframe sustainable luxury symbolically, not as a renunciation, but as a new form of prestige.

The study also highlights a strategic shift: luxury can no longer settle for “doing less harm.” It is now expected to create positive, measurable, and shared value that is compatible with planetary boundaries. A transformation that profoundly redefines the very notion of desirability.

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