The Marseille commercial court ordered the judicial liquidation of French denim brand Kaporal on March 27, marking the end of the company’s operations. The ruling follows an 18-month management-led takeover and affects 280 employees.
Kaporal shuts down – Kaporal
As of March 28, Kaporal’s e-commerce site displays a closure message: “Permanently closed. This site is no longer active. Thank you for your trust and support. See you soon, here or somewhere else!”
The liquidation ruling definitively halts the company’s activity. At its peak, Kaporal operated over 60 stores in France. According to the local newspaper, La Provence, the court did not permit business continuation under new terms.
The ruling brings an end to the company’s short-lived recovery effort. In July 2023, three senior managers took over the brand through a court-approved restructuring plan, aiming to save 78 out of 85 stores and retain 395 of the 434 employees. Since then, the company has further scaled back, focusing on restoring its denim heritage and reconnecting with its Southern French roots.
“Since the takeover, the team worked relentlessly to revive the brand, with a renewed focus on style and the popular, warm values that define Kaporal,” the company stated in a letter shared with FashionNetwork.com.
“By returning to our denim roots and embracing bold collaborations, we reignited creative energy, clarified our brand identity, and reinforced our position in the market. We managed to modernize the offer without losing Kaporal’s authenticity—rooted in Mediterranean culture and, especially, its love for Marseille. Unfortunately, today’s economic conditions make it impossible to continue this work within the current framework.”
Kaporal had set an ambitious revenue target of €60 million, requiring sustained double-digit growth, which it ultimately failed to achieve. Although broader conditions in the French fashion retail sector have been challenging, the company has not disclosed specific reasons behind the decision to cease operations.
In the same letter, the leadership expressed gratitude to teams in France and abroad, acknowledging their commitment and resilience: “Their dedication kept the business going and drove the necessary transformation. We also want to thank our partners, suppliers, and customers for their unwavering support and trust.”
It remains unclear whether a buyer will step in to acquire Kaporal’s assets, including the brand name.
Founded in 2004 by a Marseille-based family with roots in denim manufacturing, Kaporal posted €99 million in revenue in 2022 but struggled with persistent losses, which led to its restructuring. In 2023, founder Laurent Emsellem—who led the company until 2013, following its acquisition by TowerBrook Capital Partners—made an unsuccessful attempt to repurchase the brand, proposing to retain 281 employees and 70% of the store network.
Other Marseille-based denim players, including Golden Blue, owner of Le Temps des Cerises, expressed interest in the brand. The case also drew attention from Guerrida—operator of Frishop and Tritex—and off-price chain Noz, which explored acquiring Kaporal’s stock.
Thomas Sabo UK’s accounts for the year to June 2024 have been filed at Companies House and they show the subsidiary of the German jeweller enduring another tough period on the sales front.
THOMAS SABO
The previous 12 months had also been difficult with turnover dropping, the cost of sales rising and profit on multiple measures down.
This time it was more of the same on sales — which it described as “disappointing” — but profits improved. Turnover fell to just under £9.236 million from almost £11.293 million, although the cost of sales did fall. Gross profit dropped to £1.474 million from £2.704 million but operating profit rose to £241,981 from £184,913. Profit before tax rose to £293,343 from £209,530 and net profit for the year was up to £275,457 from £209,530.
The company (which sells its own brand of fashion jewellery and watches through its retail shops, concessions in department stores, the webstore and through wholesale in the UK) said the year was a difficult one for most retailers but particularly for those specialising in fashion jewellery.
That market was “significantly affected by economic difficulties”. This means high inflation and high interest rates that had also affected the previous year leading to the cost-of-living crisis. It said domestic demand softened and along with changes to its store portfolio it had a negative impact on sales.
But its tight control of costs meant that the inflationary rise in salaries was almost offset by other reductions in admin expenses. The company also received a margin adjustment credit from a group company, which boosted the year’s profit.
And it remains optimistic about the current year with it talking of expectations of a “significant recovery in sales”, and with continued financial support from the parent group it should be profitable.
That recovery in turnover should be seen both in the company’s stores and online based on its experience of the year so far. It said there have also been significant reductions in shop rents as leases have been renewed.
Luxury leather goods and stationery retailer Frank Smythson has filed its accounts for the year to the end of last March and said that its business improved.
That came as the economic situation in the UK and globally showed signs of recovery from the disruptions caused by the pandemic and despite the fact that challenges persisted.
Turnover for the business increased to £27.26 million from £23.65 million and gross profit rose to almost £19.6 million from just over £16 million. The operating result was still a loss, but it narrowed slightly to £5.9 million from £6.9 million and the loss both before and after tax was also down at £6.6 million from a negative £7.3 million a year earlier.
Looking at sales in more detail, the company saw like-for-like sales growth of 4.6% year on year, even though retail traffic fell by 8.7% and was boosted by conversion growth of 0.9%.
Its travel locations, while it said they were “much improved”, continue to feel the impact of reduced passenger numbers and less international travel.
But online, the business performed better with like-for-like growth of 5.1%, an increase in traffic of 0.7% and a conversion rise of 4.8%.
Meanwhile, the wholesale business (B2B) was still affected by high stock volumes, slow traffic in department stores and a few “uncertain financial positions” within large players, specifically Matches and KaDeVe. This translated into wholesale buyers spending less with the business. Yet its Corporate ops benefitted from a renewed interest in brands and corporations investing in rewarding their VIP clients and executives. This translated into strong growth versus the prior year.
The company’s strategy continues to focus on refining its retail network, It exited loss-making stores to create a more stable base of overheads and enable its effort and investment to be concentrated on growing brand visibility as well as on its digital channel. It expanded its presence in key markets and invested in marketing and digital expansion. And the company said that the “difficult decision” to close its flagship store on New Bond Street, London, was taken as part of that strategy.
During the year, the company invested in people with a new digital director to improve its online businesses and new agencies brought in to improve domestic and international sales. It also took on a new marketing director at the end of the financial year while a business development director joined in January 2024 “to expand and create a new model for” B2B.
The decision about the aforementioned New Bond Street closure was taken during the financial year in question but the shop actually closed just after the year ended. In August 2024 it also shut its store in Heathrow Terminal 5 due to improvement work at the terminal. But it’s working closely with the airport’s management to find another space in the same or other terminals (possibly more than one space) in order to continue with what’s an important high-traffic location for the brand.
Also after the financial year end, this January, its new Japanese distributor Look Inc began operating the local business starting with e-commerce and followed by Isetan men’s and a flagship[ in Ginza 6.
Kurt Geiger has shone the spotlight on the graduating class from its Business by Design Academy (BBD) and also announced an expansion of the programme.
Some of the 2025 Geiger graduates
BBD is its fully-funded career incubator for young creatives and from this autumn, it will become fully digitised, “opening access to young people across the UK – not just in London”. The in-person London programme will also increase its intake by 50%, “offering even more opportunities to young people from underrepresented backgrounds”. Applications for next year’s cohort are open now.
The first day of April saw the graduating class lauded at an event at The Brewery, Chiswell Street, with Bianca Saunders, Ella Thomas, Karen Binns, the Flag Twins, Zacharia Noble and many more in attendance.
The ceremony was led by broadcaster Clara Amfo who delivered an empowering keynote celebrating the students’ resilience and creativity.
There were 33 graduates following in the footsteps of the inaugural 2024 cohort – 30% of whom are now employed full-time at Kurt Geiger, with others securing various roles and placements across the creative sector.
The students were presented with a number of different work-based prizes and placements with Jennifer Peters, Mohammed Hussain and Monique Miller awarded full-time paid apprenticeship roles at Kurt Geiger in the Buying, Merchandising and Marketing departments, allowing them to complete studies while working in these newly created positions.
For the first time, a further three students, Bill Opare, Laura Quadri and Ben Sholongo were recognised for their enterprising enthusiasm and given an entrepreneurial grant to financially contribute towards developing their own ventures.
Nylah Rosario James was also awarded a one-year paid internship at Kurt Geiger’s HQ where she’ll gain hands-on experience in design, buying, merchandising, marketing and PR.
Kurt Geiger started the BBD because of the way the creative industry remains out of reach for many young people.
According to new Office for National Statistics data, the number of 16-24-year-olds not in education, employment or training (NEET) rose by 100,000 in the last 12 months reaching an 11-year high.
The creative industry contributes £124 billion to the economy and employs 2.4 million people but only 17% of creative workers come from working-class backgrounds; 86% of creative internships are unpaid, shutting out those who can’t afford to work for free; and 43% of young people aspire to creative careers, but 42% feel it’s financially unviable.
Neil Clifford, CEO of Kurt Geiger, said:“Business by Design isn’t just about opening doors for creative talent – it’s about showing the industry how much it gains by embracing diversity. With the Academy expansion, we’re ensuring that talent from all backgrounds gets the access and support they deserve, while the creative sector thrives with fresh perspectives and innovation.”