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France’s Toulouse Fashion Week offers a distinctive take on fashion

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October 27, 2025

It’s not uncommon to see fashion weeks crop up in cities beyond Milan or Paris. Yet few are as established or as distinctive as Toulouse Fashion Week (TFW). Organised by the Institut des arts et de la mode association, since 2019, it has brought together several hundred visitors and around a dozen designers from across the globe in emblematic venues throughout the Pink City, celebrating fashion and live performance.

Outfit from a collection by Jenia Gala – Toulouse Fashion Week

The 2025 edition will take place on November 28 and 29 under the theme “Heritage”, a nod to the stylistic diversity of countries around the world. Staged at the much-anticipated Interférence – Balma venue, Toulouse Fashion Week appears to have reached a new milestone, according to its president, Fabrice Sauriat. “It’s a culmination,” he explains. “I hadn’t realised, but people couldn’t believe it!” The venue offers 1,000 square metres and a 45-metre U-shaped catwalk, together with a discount on the hire. The hall, which can accommodate between 400 and 600 people, is expected to be a sell-out: “Last year, we welcomed 500 people each evening. This year, we should reach 600,” said Fabrice Sauriat.

Taking part for pleasure

To stage the event, the Institut des arts et de la mode relies on the work of 300 volunteers, from models, photographers, and make-up artists to hairdressers and communications specialists. Toulouse Fashion Week also enjoys support from international fashion weeks (Poland, Berlin, French Guiana, Brazil, and Central Africa). This communications-focused backing has prompted designers from every continent to reach out to TFW. “Designers now contact us,” notes Fabrice Sauriat. “But they take part for pleasure, not for financial gain.” The president estimates that around 20% of the designers scheduled to take part do so not to sell, but to present an artistic expression of their work.

Outfit from a collection by ADN Street
Outfit from a collection by ADN Street – Toulouse Fashion Week/Johan Photographie

This is where the event’s distinctiveness truly shows. The fashion shows are sometimes accompanied by dance, music, and décor, immersing audiences in each designer’s universe. The result is a live spectacle and a different approach to fashion from that of the catwalks in the capitals, “where only the heads move”, in the words of Fabrice Sauriat. Drawn by this multidisciplinary dimension, TFW’s audience is diverse. The curious can become buyers for an evening, after applauding an outfit they like, with prices kept accessible.

Steady, organic growth

In fact, it is the audience that almost entirely funds the artistic gathering, paying for tickets priced between ten and fifty euros. Designers, for their part, pay a modest fee (from one hundred euros), as many are enthusiasts obliged to hold down a job alongside. The aim of Toulouse Fashion Week is to showcase creatives who “don’t have the means to make a name for themselves”, and to offer them a degree of visibility. “Three quarters of the designers will sell their collections within a month,” says the association’s president.

Outfit from a collection by Véronique Magny
Outfit from a collection by Véronique Magny – Toulouse Fashion Week/Johan Photographie

What began as a dance and fashion gala for brands Fabos and Swarovski in 2016 became Toulouse Fashion Week in 2019. One hundred and fifty people reserved seats for its first edition, organised at the Cépière racecourse with the support of Toulouse City Hall. Titled “Nuit d’Orient”, it brought together designers from Toulouse, Montpellier, and Perpignan, as well as from Morocco, Uganda, Algeria, and Tunisia, for a night of fashion and artistic performances. Edition after edition, the association and its event have grown. Today, Fabrice Sauriat compares TFW to the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, where models and the audience interact in a cabaret atmosphere.

TFW scales up

Among the creative figures at Toulouse Fashion Week is Tonye Aka, patron of this 2025 edition and a master artisan. A TFW participant since 2020, the designer is behind the Tonye’s Fashion brand and Tonye’s Fashion Academy, a fashion training centre based in Toulouse. The event has also shone a light on Charlotte Bardou and her upcycled bag label Bi Ethic, as well as Jenia Gala and her eponymous brand, which has set up two sewing workshops in Toulouse.

Outfit from a collection by Agnès Wuyam
Outfit from a collection by Agnès Wuyam – Toulouse Fashion Week

In just a few years, Toulouse Fashion Week has built a local reputation that is now expanding. It has even attracted the attention of Serge Carreira, director of emerging brands at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. But the Institut des arts et de la mode now wants to look beyond TFW, and is working on new projects combining international fashion and the performing arts, some of which could launch as early as 2026.

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Luxury: Lectra study shows sector seeking new growth strategies

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Nicola Mira

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November 10, 2025

No way forward. After a decade of uninterrupted growth, the luxury fashion sector has hit a wall. Global sector revenue was estimated at €364 billion in 2024, compared to €369 billion in 2023, showing the limits of a business model based on constant price increases.

Luxury sector players are faced with worsening results – Divulgação

In the face of this slowdown, luxury labels need to rethink their strategies to maintain their appeal, and their margins too, according to a study by Lectra based on figures from its Retviews data analysis solution.

Market in midst of strategic redefinition

Price increases, often hard to justify, in luxury products, have been stemmed by economic stagnation and dwindling consumer purchasing power. This paradigm change is forcing luxury labels to reconsider their strategies. “The current luxury market slowdown is a turning point for labels. They must now rethink their strategies, which had until now been price-centred,” said Antonella Capelli, president EMEA at Lectra.

Labels are reducing their leather goods assortment, especially for cheaper products
Labels are reducing their leather goods assortment, especially for cheaper products – hermès.com

The Lectra study revealed two diametrically opposed strategies. Some labels are concentrating on the ultra-luxury segment, targeting a highly specific clientèle that is less susceptible to economic fluctuations. Others, like Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Prada, are trying to appeal to a new clientèle by tweaking the prices of their entry-level products.

Leather goods a desirability linchpin that needs to be optimised

In this uncertain environment, leather goods, and especially handbags, are still a mainstay in the market positioning of luxury labels. These iconic items continue to attract an extensive clientèle. Retviews figures show that China is the country where these products are selling at the highest prices, generating margins of several hundred euros per item for labels like Gucci and Prada.

China is the goose that lays the golden eggs for international luxury labels
China is the goose that lays the golden eggs for international luxury labels – Retviews/Lectra

Luxury labels are adjusting their assortment strategies in order to protect their high-end image and their profitability. One of their tactics, identified by Lectra, is withdrawing from the market models that are similar but less expensive, to prompt consumers to opt for their higher-priced counterparts. Luxury leather goods are therefore becoming even more expensive. A second approach observed by Lectra is product range streamlining: Bottega Veneta’s Jodie handbag went from five to three sizes in 2024. By the same token, Bottega Veneta has stopped selling its smallest model, the Candy Jodie, aligning with the current trend away from mini handbags in favour of larger models.

Handbag charms emerging as new consumer bait

As the handbag market is rebalancing, a new accessories trend is emerging: handbag charms. These very small leather goods are playing a key role, becoming a new gateway into the world of luxury goods for budget-conscious consumers.

Luxury labels are choosing between ultra luxury and more affordable products
Luxury labels are choosing between ultra luxury and more affordable products – N°21 x Scholl

This new direction has been adopted both by affordable premium brands like Coach or COS and by more upmarket labels, which are developing their collections with a price positioning reflecting their status. Retviews confirmed this phenomenon by observing a whopping 51% growth between 2024 and 2025 in the presence of handbag charms and keyrings in luxury labels’ assortment, a growth rate at odds with the decrease observed in other accessories categories.

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Jean-Charles de Castelbajac to stage mammoth retrospective in Toulouse

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November 10, 2025

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac will stage a mammoth retrospective in Toulouse, entitled ‘L’Imagination au pouvoir,’ or ‘Imagination at work,’ to be presented in the French city’s Les Abattoirs Museum.

Bettina Rheims, Ghislaine Thesmar, and dancers from the Ballet de l’Opéra de Paris, Spring-Summer 1982, “Homage to Comic Books” collection – Bettina Rheims / Adagp, Paris, 2025

 
This important compilation of fashion, accessories, design, collages, and fine art works by one of France’s great iconoclastic creators will be staged in Toulouse from December 12 to August 23, 2026.
 
The exhibition brings together nearly 300 works, including clothing, design objects, drawings, and photographs, retracing six decades of creation by a visionary artist who pioneered the breaking down of barriers between art, fashion, and popular culture.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and the paraments designed for the reopening of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris, 2024
Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and the paraments designed for the reopening of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris, 2024 – Philippe Garcia

 
L’Imagination au pouvoir offers an immersive journey, punctuated by an original composition by Vladimir Cauchemar, and highlights the artist’s iconic collaborations—from Keith Haring to Robert Mapplethorpe, Lady Gaga to Malcolm McLaren—as well as de Castelbajac’s recent works created for Notre-Dame de Paris.

“Starting in 1980, I began using the primary colours red, blue, and yellow, the banners of pop culture, as well as logos, cartoons, and slogans, as a contemporary response to my passion for medieval heraldry and history. This limited colour palette became my signature, a stylistic imprint, a link between all my creative experiences, from my pop knitting work, the beginnings of streetwear, to sacred art at the 1997 World Youth Day and the reopening of Notre-Dame de Paris in 2024,” said 75-year-old Jean-Charles in a release, referring to the official vestments he created for the clergy for the reopening of the legendary cathedral. Examples of which feature in the retrospective.

'Elektrocute' fashion show, Autumn-Winter2007-2008
“Elektrocute” fashion show, Autumn-Winter2007-2008 – Guy Marineau

 
Among the iconic images in the exhibition are his famed teddy bear coats from 1988, one of which was worn by Madonna; and the graphic sequined column-dress from 1985 that read, “Je suis toute nue en dessous,” in English: “I am fully naked underneath.”
 
It also features portraits by Oliviero Toscani of Andy Warhol and Vivienne Westwood wearing de Castelbajac creations. All the way to historic objects, from his multi-coloured rainbow moccasins for Weston to his collectors’ item Totem lamps.
 
More power to his imagination.
 

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Hammerson says Les 3 Fontaines upgrade is fully pre-let

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November 10, 2025

It’s not just major UK shopping centres that are enjoying strong letting percentages. As part of its ongoing repositioning, Northern France’s Les 3 Fontaines has now fully pre-let 110,000 sq ft of outstanding retail space, operator Hammerson said.

Image: Hammerson

The final unit has been signed for a Nike store which will join Primark as anchor tenants when the new stores opens in 2027.

Located in Cergy, Val d’Oise, the Les 3 Fontaines destination comprises 1 million sq ft of prime retail space, including 350,000 sq ft added in 2022. 

Between then and 2024, annual footfall has risen 15%, reaching 13 million annual visits. Growth continues, with year-on-year visitor numbers up a further 3.4% so far in 2025, Hammerson said.

Other recently-signed retail brands include Aroma-Zone, a leading natural beauty brand in France, while Inter-Actif, an official Apple Premium Partner, will also open next month.

Since the beginning of the year, 20 long-term leases have also been completed with €36 million (£31.60 million) in contracted rents.

The destination features 200 occupiers, including Sephora, Adidas, Mango, Footlocker, and Zara.

Grégoire Peureux, chief operating officer at Hammerson, commented: “Achieving 100% pre-letting for this latest repositioning epitomises our asset and leasing strategy. Our success is driven by creating attractive spaces that generate demand, broaden the appeal of our destinations, and grow rental income and value.  With further openings and more leasing to come, our momentum continues.”

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