Milan witnessed a bumper season of shoe designs this week, where brands focused on their DNA even as they subtly advanced and subverted their codes with audacious new materials and techniques.
 
FashionNetwork.com caught up with a half-dozen of the best: Santoni, Casadei, Stuart Weitzman, Giuseppe Zanotti, Gianvito Rossi and Alexandre Birman.

Santoni: Fetes its 50th with “Meraviglia”

No brand made a bigger impact this week than Santoni, which celebrated its 50th anniversary with considerable style.

The house’s latest campaign “Meraviglia – Makers of Beauty for 50 Years” was wrapped around all copies of New York Times sold in Italy. It also showed up on scores of Milan tram stop ad boards. Though the biggest news was a bold new collection named “Meraviglia”, meaning in English “Marvelous”, which translated into two capsules. 
 
For guys, an excellent series made in a multi-layered spicy oceanic blue that included a snazzy new monk meets loafer shoe. For gals, a series in burnished gold, including a micro crystal kitten heel that would flatter any foot.

Add in some beautifully burnished gents shoes that looked like they were polished a thousand times. Or, for the ladies, a series of shearling fur boots that looked rich, comfortable and totally with it.  
 
“Our anniversary is not just a celebration of past achievements but a recognition of the hands that continue to shape Santoni’s future. It is a testament to the makers, the visionaries and the pursuit of beauty that will define Santoni for anther 50 years,” insisted CEO Giuseppe Santoni, sporting his latest spiffy new bespoke suit.
 

Casadei: To Infinity and beyond

What caught the eye most at Casadei, were design star Giuseppe’s new infinity heels, a chain link made into a sturdy curve that supported some great patent leather boots and sling backs.

“Not a weapon, but a weapon of seduction,” quipped the designer.
 
Casadei was all about practicality with punch. Great shearling boots, with visible wool trim, and supper riding boots for the city.

“Women wear ski jackets and Moncler in the city nowadays and not just on the slopes. These styles work with that spirit,” he added.
 
A venerable brand, but one very with it, like in its multi-room mid-century modern showroom on Via Bigli. Each room decorated differently: tough chic mirrors in one; black and white marble in the next; pure white in a third; and a stack of video monitors in an installation space for the Infinity.
 
Founded back in the 1950s, Casadei still has its own factory near Rimini, employing 160 people. Made in Italy in March region, this collection was worthy of a celebration.
 

Stuart Weitzman: Modernism overlooking the Duomo

Tops marks for Stuart Weitzman for its location – the top floor Sala Fontana at the Museo Del Novecento, with fantastic views of the Duomo. And, more tellingly, some great Italian modernist art, dovetailing with the brand’s striking new ideas.

 
Like its “Vinnie” collection, a range defined by an angular heel and sculptural pointed toe. As well as a very fresh approach to power pumps and power boots, including back-stretch knee-high boots inspired by the brand’s iconic 5050 boot. This Stuart Weitzman classic has been copied by scores of other brands, but nothing beats the original.
 
One could admire its “Hudson” collection, featuring a new lug-sole silhouette, adding a dash of urban grit with chukka boots, lace-up booties and Chelsea boots. Practical footwear, but with punch.
 
“Our strategic focus is on developing emotional product driven by our consumer needs, feedback and insights. With innovative new takes on her favorite silhouette, the iconic 5050, and… the best-selling Vinnie, the collection brings our consumer both an homage to our brand’s heritage and a definitive step forward into the next era for the brand,” opined Jonathan Lelonek, SVP, global wholesale, Stuart Weitzman, in a tour of the collection.
 

Giuseppe Zanotti: Keeping faithful to his DNA

To thine own self be true, Shakespeare wrote, and Giuseppe Zanotti is certainly loyal to that dictum.

“I wanted to get back to my true spirit,” explained Zanotti in his elegant 17th-century palazzo HQ in Milan.
 
Which is high gloss glamour with soul, creating some great new high heels with precise golden-tipped soles – whether on square shoes or high heels.
 
Declining the heels with three different heights: 45, 90 or 105 millimeters, and stripping it back to the minimal with several of his classics: the slingback, Brenda, his mule, Myra, and the much-admired, Mary Jane.
 
Giuseppe also dreamed up some remarkable red-carpet high heels named Intrigo, where clusters of silver crystal buds, mini roses and petals grid the ankle. For the most confident of women – and thus very much a Zanotti gal – the intrigue of Intrigo will be fantastic.
 

Gianvito Rossi: King of the colorists

No brand anywhere quite manages to combine craftsmanship with cool design as Gianvito Rossi. To an almost uncanny extent. 

Take his new Art Deco selection, where the tiniest lines of golden-hued leather are inserted with brilliant delicacy. Made in buttery soft suede in Imperial Roman purple or a deep red rust, the technique was seen to great effect in spike-heel boots; chunky 70s style platforms or slingbacks.
 
Gianvito also had the most distinctive color palette of any shoe marque this season. Seen in a charming metal tree in his via Santa Spirito showroom, from which hung a dozen high heels in a great array of soft sherbets, bitter oranges, dusty pinks and Connemara green.
 
“But my favorite will always be the gray, as it is just so deep,” smiled Gianvito.
 

Alexandre Birman: Tropical curves in new showroom

Last but not least, Alexandre Birman unveiled its brand-new showroom on Via Bigli 11, marking an important new chapter for the Brazilian house.

Underlining its links back to the great stars of Brazilian architecture – from Oscar Niemeyer to Lina Bo Bardi – with many looks. Specifically in the excellent sculptural shapes and heels, echoing those architects’ preferred forms, which in turn, were inspired by the unique topography of Brazil – from its granite seaside boulder to its undulating mountain ridges.
 
For fall 2025, the standouts include a Tortoise Patent Series – clever twists on classic silhouettes, featuring high-gloss tortoise finishes and grosgrain detailing. While a series of slingbacks with knotted straps suggested the fauna above Rio. 
 
Luxurious materials abounded, notably velvety suedes used to create a stretchy glove boot of great character, while the country’s long tradition in weaving was highlighted in woven leather sandals and pumps, that were admirable and chic.
 
“For Fall 2025, we wanted to explore how form and function coexist – taking inspiration from modernist architecture and translating that into shoes that feel bold yet effortless,” stressed Guilherme Kfouri, creative director of Alexandre Birman. 
 
The brand Alexandre Birman was founded by its namesake back in 2008. Today, Alexandre serves as the chief executive officer of the brand’s parent company, AZZAS. It is Latin America’s biggest fashion conglomerate.
 
This season, in its new showroom, the footwear of Alexandre Birman has rarely looked better.