For a week, the eyes of all creatives will be trained on the city of Milan, home to Design Week on April 7-13. This year, the event will be as wide-ranging as never before. There is the Salone del Mobile (furniture fair), the main event, whose 63rd edition will be held on April 8-13 at the FieraMilano City exhibition centre, hosting over 2,100 exhibitors from 37 countries. And the Fuorisalone, a programme of parallel initiatives scattered throughout the city and including over 1,650 events, 20.5% more than last year. Fashion and luxury labels will be massively involved in the programme, being extremely keen to tap this huge event and the buzz it generates to boost their visibility.
The Max Mara group’s Marella label has teamed up with London design studio Raw Edges – Marella
The Italian Fashion Chamber (CNMI) has published its own ‘Milano Moda Design’ calendar for the week, featuring 38 events by 29 labels. Eleven of them will showcase their home decoration line, while the others are ad hoc initiatives, more often than not held in-store. This year, labels like Brioni, Buccellati, Jil Sander, Jimmy Choo and Louis Vuitton will be joining the CNMI calendar for the first time.
Many of the week’s fashion events have only a tenuous link with the world of furniture design, and are chiefly an excuse to take part in Milan Design Week, making the labels’ presence felt. Given the sheer number of events, highly prestigious labels and even mass-market brands are vying to find the most unusual means and ideas to stand out in the crowd. For example, Japanese retailer Muji has joined forces this year with the designers of the 5∙5 agency, building a house-manifesto inspired by Japanese architecture and set in a public garden.
Special projects
Some leading luxury names will feature major installations showcasing their home decoration collections, like Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Missoni, Elie Saab and Karl Lagerfeld. Others have instead opted for staging special projects, for example the ‘Saint Laurent – Charlotte Perriand’ exhibition, Gucci’s interesting bamboo-themed initiative, and the ‘Prada Frames’ multi-disciplinary symposium with its extensive conference schedule, an event that has been organised by the Milanese label during Design Week since 2022.
Fratelli Rossetti will mix design, craftsmanship and cuisine at Milan Design Week – Fratelli Rossetti
Many labels appear to favour initiatives with an experiential dimension and a human touch, adopting a more understated approach. Trussardi will transform its furniture line’s showroom in a convivial venue, where the public will be able to enjoy all sorts of events, from workshops to live performances, brunches, and even a cycle race!
Stores are going to be once again at the heart of things, as venues for immersive experiences and for viewing the labels’ world through a novel perspective. Christian Dior is one of the labels that has chosen this rather minimalist approach. No major installation, just a presentation at its Milanese store of three giant vases by French designer Sam Baron, who will be present in person one morning.
Other labels will give an extra dimension to their stores via an array of activations. MSGM’s store will morph into a sort of literary salon, hosting a pop-up version of Berlin bookshop Do You Read Me, as well as several debates. Footwear brand Fratelli Rossetti will offer a gourmet experience to its aficionados, teaming up with sauce producer Casa Marrazzo and chef Mimosa Misasi for in-store tastings.
At Ferragamo, an artisan will be on hand throughout the week to demonstrate the various stages needed to produce the label’s signature men’s shoes, while Etro will plunge its store in darkness to stage a unique presentation of Arnica, the jacquard fabric with the label’s signature paisley motif.
Hermès‘ market capitalization surpassed that of rival LVMH, the conglomerate that once tried to buy the maker of the coveted Birkin bag in a stealth raid that shocked the French corporate world 15 years ago.
Hermès overtakes LVMH in value—years after fending off takeover attempt. – Reuters
Hermès International SCA’s valuation reached €243.65 billion ($276.3 billion) on Tuesday, briefly crossing the €243.44 billion of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE and catapulting it into the most valuable company on France’s benchmark CAC 40 index.
The stunning reversal in fortunes comes after LVMH tumbled as much as 8.4% in Paris following disappointing first-quarter results on slowing demand in China and the U.S. amid threats of an escalating trade war.
For Hermès, the move vindicates its strategy to remain independent. In 2010, LVMH’s controlling shareholder and billionaire CEO Bernard Arnault revealed that he had quietly amassed a stake in the famed maker of silk scarves.
Arnault’s move prompted the Hermès family to unite, eventually pressuring the man once dubbed “the wolf in cashmere” for his aggressive takeovers of heritage brands to sell his shares a few years later.
LVMH, whose portfolio includes Christian Dior and Tiffany & Co., reported 2024 sales of €84.7 billion and an operating profit of €19.6 billion. Hermès posted sales of €15.2 billion with an operating profit of €6.2 billion for the same period.
Hermès has weathered the downturn in demand for luxury goods better than rivals by catering to the wealthiest and by cultivating a finely calibrated sense of exclusivity and managed scarcity.
The supply-constrained business model has ensured that demand for its handbags like the Birkin — named after the late British singer-actress Jane Birkin — and the Kelly — inspired by Princess Grace Kelly — outstrips what’s on offer.
These bags can retail for around €10,000 in Paris and command significantly higher prices on the resale market. Founded as a harness maker in 1837, Hermès benefits from strong pricing power and long waiting lists for its products.
In contrast, LVMH’s valuation may be hurting from what analysts say is a conglomerate discount, with assets such as Sephora enjoying lower margins than its cash cow brand, Louis Vuitton.
On Monday, LVMH posted first-quarter results that were much worse than expected at its key fashion and leather goods unit. Hermès will publish its quarterly sales on Thursday.
While Arnault often dominates the world’s richest list — he currently ranks fifth on the Bloomberg Billionaires Index — the Hermès family, whose sixth-generation heir Axel Dumas runs the saddle maker, is Europe’s wealthiest with an estimated fortune of about $171 billion as of December.
In February, Hermès’ valuation briefly crossed the symbolic €300 billion level, but concerns about trade wars and tariffs have since hurt the wider luxury sector.
Two regular monthly reports came out on Tuesday, one showing general consumer spending and the other retail sales specifically. While there was talk of green shoots, you had to look very carefully to find them and the overall picture is that caution remains the watchword for many shoppers.
We’re not exactly in a boom period. Looking first at the Barclays report, the company that processes a huge chunk of UK consumer spending via its payment cards said consumer card spending grew only 0.5% in March, which was lower than the 1% in February and undershot the latest CPIH inflation rate of 3.7%.
But importantly, while ‘essential’ spending contracted 2.9%, with consumers making cutbacks in anticipation of rising household bills, confidence in discretionary spending remained resilient, with 58% confident in their ability to spend on non-essential items. Discretionary spend increase 2.2%, which was still below inflation but a step in the right direction.
Interestingly too, the impact of tariffs may not have quite kicked in yet but 71% of UK adults plan to buy more ‘Made in Britain’ products, reflecting sentiment expressed in other countries in Europe and also in Canada in reaction to the US imposing extra import duties.
As far as discretionary spending was concerned, garden centres saw the biggest spike with a 13.4% increase, which was hardly surprising given the sunny weather during March.
But pharmacy, health & beauty also rose strongly with an 11% jump – the category’s greatest increase since April 2022. Clothing spend meanwhile was up a more anaemic 1.1%.
While retail as a whole was down 0.2%, some particular store categories fared worse with department stores falling 3.2% and discount stores 3.1%.
Meanwhile, the BRC-KPMG Retail Sales Monitor, which excludes general consumer spending and focuses on retail specifically, reported total retail sales up 1.1%. This was lower than +3.5% a year earlier but March and April are always tricky months to assess given the way the timing of Easter moves around between the two months in successive years.
The monitor showed non-food sales up by 0.6% year on year in March, against a decline of 0.4% in March 2024.
In-store non-food sales fell by 0.1% year on year, against growth of 0.1% in March 2024 while online, they rose 1.8%, beating last year’s 1.4% drop.
BRC CEO Helen Dickinson said: “Despite a challenging global geopolitical landscape, the small increase in both food and non-food sales masked signs of underlying strengthening of demand given March 2025’s comparison with last year’s early Easter. The improving weather made for a particularly strong final week, with gardening and DIY equipment flying off the shelves. Jewellery and beauty products were helped by Mother’s Day, though sales of bigger ticket items like furniture remained weak.”
UK label Passenger, which described itself as a “responsible outdoor clothing brand with a mission to “inspire meaningful escapism”, has announced it’s temporarily pausing its US growth initiatives.
Passenger
The move comes in response to US tariffs and sees it instead focusing on its fast-growing EU business.
Passenger grew 76% in 2024 to £57 million net revenue, up from £33 million in 2023. Europe is its fastest-growing region at the moment while the business also has a large customer base in the UK, where it began 13 years ago.
“Given the success Passenger is seeing in the European market, the brand has shifted resources and rerouted stock that was planned for the US to deliver against strong demand in Germany, France, the Netherlands, Belgium, and the UK,” it said.
CEO Jon Lane explained: “Passenger has seen rapid direct-to-consumer growth in the US over the last two years, and has a large pipeline of wholesale orders building from retailers such as REI, Scheels, Backcountry, and outdoor specialty stores. However, with US tariffs increasing so rapidly and being so volatile, this has turned the US from a great opportunity to a risky proposition.”
The company has a large number of production partners in Asia and uses recycled fabrics from the region, which means it has seen average duties and tariffs climb to over 50%. So for every $1 million of stock landed in the US, “the Passenger business will be responsible for a further $500,000 in duties and tariffs on day one alone”.
Lane added that while Passenger was “looking forward to scaling in the US, given the opportunity in Europe, where we are seeing triple-digit growth in some countries and a stable business environment, we’re confident that this shift in focus will enable [it] to deliver on its ambitious plans”.
And he said the company has spoken to all its key retail partners in the US “and really appreciate their positive feedback and long-term support. Like many others, we’ll be keeping a close eye on the US over the coming months to see if tariffs are reduced to a sustainable level and if the landscape has become more settled”.