Men’s Fashion Week kicks off in Paris on Tuesday and will feature six days of trend-setting catwalk shows, a farewell at Hermes and tributes to late Italian fashion icon Valentino.
The first day of the Fall/Winter 2026 edition will be dominated by the latest mega-production from Louis Vuitton‘s celebrity menswear designer Pharrell Williams, as well as mourning for one of the industry’s biggest names.
Williams will unveil his collection at the brand’s glitzy gallery space in western Paris under the shadow of the death of Italy’s Valentino Garavani, who passed away Monday at the age of 93.
The giant in the world of haute couture died at his home in Rome, just four months after the death of fellow Italian great Giorgio Armani.
In a sign of industrial renewal, however, French designer Jeanne Friot will take her first steps on the daunting Paris calendar on Monday, with the young stylist telling AFP it was a “quite an unusual joy and stress” to take part.
French designer Veronique Nichanian will meanwhile present her last collection for Hermes on Saturday after 37 years at the helm.
The 71-year-old Parisian — one of the few women designing in menswear — will leave behind a brand in tremendous financial shape with an image of timeless, refined masculinity that she has helped shape.
Her successor, London designer Grace Wales Bonner, who is of English and Jamaican heritage, represents a generational and stylistic shift for the classic family-run French house.
Many fashionistas will be casting an eye on the Christian Louboutin show on day two where Jaden Smith — son of US rapper-actor Will Smith — will present his debut collection.
The model and musician, 27, was unveiled as the creative director of the famed French brand last September by founder Louboutin, who appears to be preparing to hand over the reins to the Gen Z trendsetter.
The choice is seen as a bold bet on relatively inexperienced youth by the veteran maker of red-soled stilettos, whose ready-to-wear menswear and accessories are estimated by analysts to account for about a quarter of his sales.
On Wednesday, much-hyped Dior designer Jonathan Anderson will unveil his second Homme collection, having made his debut in June last year with a widely praised show of unisex styling.
But the 41-year-old’s womenswear collection in September didn’t convince everyone, and some observers expect him to put a more decisive mark on Dior and cement the new identity he’s begun sketching out.
“There’s a lot of anticipation,” Alice Feillard, men’s buying director at Paris department store Galeries Lafayette, told AFP.
The luxury fashion industry has undergone a wave of changes over the last 12 months at a time of weak international growth following the bumper buying frenzy of the post-Covid period.
Slowing demand from China, US tariffs on imports and uncertainty about the global economy have all weighed on sales of European brands.
New faces such as Anderson, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Demna at Gucci or Sarah Burton at Givenchy represent the elevation of a new stable of couturiers who look set to dominate the major houses over the next decade.
Elsewhere over the week, Japanese brands from Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake to Mihara Yasuhiro will be out in force.
LVMH-owned Kenzo, will hold a presentation instead of a runway show on Tuesday inside the vast Parisian house of late founder Kenzo Takada in the French capital’s trendy 11th district.
The four-storey modernist building, which features a Japanese garden, will host a day-long gathering of design, food and music curated by chief creative Nigo.
US designer Willy Chavarria, who is one of a handful unafraid to express political views, also returns for his third season in Paris and might have something to say about Donald Trump‘s presidency on Friday.
The Who’s Next trade show, held in Hall 7 of the Parc des Expositions (Paris XV) from January 17 to 19, put accessory brands centre stage. Eyewear, jewellery of every kind, bags, mittens, and headwear – buyers were spoilt for choice. Among these brands, a few caught the eye of FashionNetwork.com.
Italian Okkia and its affordable eyewear
Founded in 2016, this Italian brand specializes in affordable eyewear. – Okkia
Founded in 2016, Okkia is an Italian brand offering affordable eyewear, from prescription frames to sunglasses. It is exhibiting at Who’s Next for the first time, with ambitious international plans. Its attractive pricing — €25 for prescription glasses, €27 for sunglasses and €40 for both — helped it sell one million units in 2025. Already widely distributed across Europe, the brand is also present in the United States, several Latin American countries, Turkey and the Maldives. It now aims to establish itself in countries such as Australia, where it is not yet present, and to strengthen its global footprint. This year will see the launch of two new lines for Okkia, as well as a collaboration with Italian designer Seletti.
Lumielle Aurora 1896 holds umbrella licences for a number of brands, including Agnès b. – Lumielle Aurora 1896
Japanese premium umbrella brand Lumielle Aurora 1896 marked its second appearance at the show, having made its debut last September. The brand is seeking a foothold in European stores — a strategy only recently set in motion — but is, for now, hampered by its pricing. Made in Japan from textiles produced in-house in the Niigata region, these umbrellas, with wooden or bamboo handles, have so far found limited traction in Europe. Lumielle Aurora 1896 has, therefore, developed a more affordable line, presented at the show alongside parasols for hot weather. Aurora has also owned Tokyo Hat since 2007, a brand of caps and other headwear featured across several stands. With a more contemporary offer, Tokyo Hat hopes to win over retailers with a younger clientele and a taste for creative fashion.
The timeless Le Béret Français and Le Bonnet Français
Le Béret Français regularly benefits from French lifestyle trends – Le Béret Français
Le Béret Français and its recently acquired subsidiary, Le Bonnet Français, were also in attendance this January. Le Béret Français, which holds the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (EPV) label, aims to maintain its positive growth trajectory, particularly buoyed in recent years by the Rugby World Cup in France and the Paris 2024 Olympic and Paralympic Games. With €1 million in annual sales, the company nevertheless faces strong competition from other brands, whose product quality is not always on a par with its own, made in Bayonne from French wool. Even so, Le Béret Français can boast sales to a wide range of partners, including department stores, milliners and even museums, whose end consumers are very diverse.
Who’s Next also boasted a broad line-up of exhibitors, including Naked Wolfe and its colourful shoes, Zen Collective and its Buddhist bracelets, and Hinterveld and its thick mohair scarves.
A year-and-a-half after his fellow co-founder, Max Svärdh, stepped back, Albin Johansson is now doing the same at Axel Arigato, the label they founded together in 2014. In June 2024, the Swedish brand, renowned for its sneakers and chic streetwear, announced the appointment of Jens Werner as creative director, a role previously overseen by Max Svärdh.
Axel Arigato boutique – Axel Arigato
At that time, Johansson remained CEO of the brand, in which the investment firm Eurazeo took a majority stake in 2020. However, in early 2026, the company—which reportedly exceeded SEK 1 billion in turnover in 2024 (over €90 million)—appointed Frédéric Serrant to the role. He brings more than 16 years’ experience in international leadership roles across Asia and Latin America, gained at Adidas, the sports and lifestyle giant.
This expertise is expected to help Axel Arigato enter a new phase after years of expansion. The brand operates more than 15 standalone stores in major Scandinavian cities, as well as in key cities such as London, Paris, New York, Dubai and Berlin. It is also present in numerous department stores worldwide. However, this expansion has also eroded its margins, and the company has had to refine its strategy to limit operating losses.
“I am sincerely impressed by the remarkable work done so far to make Axel Arigato such a strong, distinctive and inspiring brand. It truly reflects the talent, passion and commitment of the teams, and I’m convinced that the brand’s potential is enormous. I look forward to joining the team, learning alongside them and writing the next chapters of the Axel Arigato story together,” commented Serrant, in a LinkedIn post.
Johansson will remain chairman of the board of directors.
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Against the prevailing mood in the United States he so loves, Kinji Teramoto refuses to turn inward. Hence, the man who refers to himself as the “archivenist” — a term he coined — and who has revived the iconic American labels Big Yank and Rocky Mountain Featherbed, is bringing them with him to 30 Galerie Vivienne, in Paris’s 2nd arrondissement. Open from January 20 to 28, the pop-up will primarily showcase RMFC and its down-filled garments, better suited to the current season, with Big Yank shirts taking a back seat.
Kinji Teramoto, passionate “archivenist” and reviver of heritage brands – 35IVE Summers
On arriving in Paris, Teramoto hopes to blend Tokyo’s gentle spirit with the cool elegance of the French capital. This trip from Japan follows the arrival in 2025 of the European branch of 35IVE Summers, the brands’ parent company, in Paris. Accordingly, the success of this pop-up store will determine whether the two labels secure a lasting presence on Parisian streets, a long-standing project for Teramoto and his teams.
A Paris outpost in the pipeline?
Paris represents a particular opportunity for the “archivenist”, not least because his partner at Anatomica, Pierre Fournier, is based there. The City of Light is also an ideal place to raise the profile of RMFC and Big Yank. The two American brands, founded in the late 1960s and in 1919, respectively, were acquired by 35IVE Summers in 2005 and 2012. Based on a series of pieces acquired by Teramoto, both labels have been relaunched with products that marry heritage and modern, Japan-based manufacturing. Should a permanent presence be established, 35IVE Summers would even look to produce locally the pieces sold in Europe, embracing a local production-and-distribution model.
Rocky Mountain Featherbed will take centre stage – Rocky Mountain Feathebed
All of this is underpinned by a highly unusual development cycle. “Garments made in one or two months are incomplete,” Teramoto explained. “We create patterns and produce samples at least three times, then personally try the finished items and wear them for at least six months to observe how they age. This process is our 18-month commitment,” he continued.
Passing on to future generations
The “archivenist”, who rejects the label of collector, believes that every vintage piece carries meaning, having endured through time.
“I only collect what I can truly bring back to life. […] My aim is for the next generation to wear these pieces and in turn pass them on to the next,” he added.
What’s more, RMFC and Big Yank pieces, which revisit designs several decades old, feed the vintage market and will once again be unearthed by new generations.
Big Yank was founded in 1919 by Reliance Company in Chicago – Big Yank
Teramoto’s wish to preserve the aesthetics of archival pieces springs from his passion for the labels he has brought back to life: “What these two brands created was truly iconic. What I felt at the time became my business, beyond mere commercial viability,” he confides. “At the time, I could never have imagined that the pieces I created from these archives would be embraced by the global market.”
RMFC and Big Yank have not only been reborn; they are thriving. Rocky Mountain Featherbed closes 2025 with significant growth in Europe and the Americas, with sales in Japan also on the rise.
Big Yank, meanwhile, is seeing its sales climb in Japan, according to Teramoto. In 2025, the brand appointed BerBer Jin’s Yutaka Fujihara as creative director, a move that “is currently attracting strong interest, at least in Japan.”
He is expected at the Paris pop-up store “to increase brand awareness in Europe and the Americas.”
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