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EY warns luxury to refocus on product excellence and client experience

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 10, 2025

After years of accelerating marketing strategies and driving up prices, luxury houses may now have more to gain by returning to the fundamentals. How? By refocusing on product quality, durability and authenticity — while offering meaningful, experience-driven connections with their customers. These are the key takeaways from EY’s latest “Luxury Client Index 2025” survey, published amid a broader sector slowdown — particularly in crucial markets such as China — and growing disruption caused by U.S. tariffs.

In its “Luxury Client Index 2025” survey, EY encourages luxury brands to return to basics. – EY

Entitled “Winning Back Aspirational Luxury Clients,” the survey polled 1,672 people in 10 countries, including 153 in France. “Sixty-two percent of them said they had given up buying a luxury product last year, not because they couldn’t afford it, but because the price–value equation no longer made sense to them,” the report states.

According to the study, three out of four customers prioritize quality in their purchases above all other criteria. This element comes out on top, taking precedence over the product’s exclusivity, the fact that it is personalized or promoted by a celebrity, and even its price. This trend is consistent across all generations of French consumers — from baby boomers to Generation Z — as it is globally. In France, craftsmanship remains the number-one factor influencing purchases, whereas it ranks third worldwide, with the quality of materials being the primary criterion.

Product durability is also a key criterion, just as important as price, especially for customers in the UK and China. This factor becomes even more significant given the frequency of consumption of this type of high-end product. It reflects a growing concern at a time when several scandals have tarnished the image of luxury brands, which prioritize profits over manufacturing quality and the working conditions of subcontractors — as highlighted recently by the Milan court regarding some of the sector’s biggest names. Unsurprisingly, 24% of those surveyed by EY — who did not prioritize sustainability in their preferences — cited suspicion of greenwashing by luxury houses.

And yet, as the study reveals, 45% of respondents stated that they were sensitive to innovation in their choice of materials, underscoring the importance for luxury brands to invest in technological research. Additionally, 53% of respondents consider the recyclability of packaging to be important. This criterion is less decisive for the French (–27 points compared to the global average). On the other hand, the French place strong importance on carbon impact, ranking it second (+10 points compared to international respondents).

Breakdown of the main criteria influencing the act of purchase, by generation and customer segment
Breakdown of the main criteria influencing the act of purchase, by generation and customer segment – EY Luxury Client Index 2025

As Rachel Daydou, EY Fabernovel partner and one of the authors of the report, notes, it would be in the interest of companies “to use traceability to demonstrate that their products are made by skilled craftsmen, using high-quality, safe materials, which can justify prices and win back the trust of customers in a context of mistrust.”

Another important finding is the strong appetite of aspirational customers for luxury experiences with their favorite brands — experiences usually reserved for VIPs or VICs (very important clients). Two-thirds of customers spending less than €5,000 a year — the segment that has driven growth in recent years — have not experienced any particular attention during their most recent purchases. Yet 83% of them say that such gestures would encourage them to buy from the brand again. Even more surprisingly, 70% of respondents say they are willing to pay for an experience with their favorite brand — even if it doesn’t come with a purchase, says Daydou.

“This thirst for experience opens up unprecedented prospects: subscriptions to exclusive products, rental services for events, or even certified secondhand programs. These are all revenue-generating and decarbonizing levers that houses should be exploring more actively,” she analyzes. She concludes: “Luxury brands are at a crossroads, and this difficult period could be just the opportunity to question established beliefs, reinforce the essence of luxury, and move towards business models that are both profitable and truly sustainable.”

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Birks sales surge on European acquisition, strong retail performance

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December 8, 2025

Birks announced on Friday a 16.2% uptick in half-year sales to $93.1 million, on the back of the Canadian jeweller’s acquisition of European Boutique, and a strong retail performance.

Birks

The Montreal-based company also logged an increase in third-party branded timepieces across multiple brands for the 26 weeks ending September 27, in addition to gains in sales of Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry.

Meanwhile, comparable store sales rose 6.3%, attributable to strong sales in all product categories, particularly in third-party branded timepieces, but also in Birks branded jewelry and third-party branded jewelry, the company added.

In light of the strong sales performance, Birks narrowed its earnings loss during the six months to an operating loss of $0.2 million, compared to a reported operating loss of $0.3 million in the prior-year period.

“Our net sales, gross profit and comparable store sales for the first half of Fiscal 2026 are higher than the corresponding period in Fiscal 2025 due in part to the acquisition of the European business but also due to our strong retail performance, which speaks to the strength of our product offerings, both in terms of our Birks branded products and our third-party branded watches and jewelry,” said Niccolò Rossi di Montelera, executive chairman of the board and interim CEO.

“I would like to thank our teams for their dedication and hard work. The growth achieved in the first half of Fiscal 2026 is a testament of our commitment to our customers and I am grateful for the unwavering efforts of all our employees which contributed to these results and the successful integration of the European stores.”

In July, Birks acquired the luxury watch and jewellery business of European Boutique from its founders, the Sutkiewicz family, for a purchase price of $9 million.

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Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil

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December 7, 2025

NYC-based footwear brand Koio is relaunching The Primo, the high-top sneaker that debuted the brand in 2015, in a limited-edition collaboration with leatherworker and YouTube creator Rose Anvil for its tenth anniversary.

Koio relaunches the Primo with Rose Anvil. – Koio

The updated Primo maintains Koio’s original Italian build standards, with internal upgrades including a full leather Strobel board, leather toe cap and counter, and a gum outsole. The upper is crafted from vegetable-tanned, untreated Vachetta calf leather sourced from Italian tannery Conceria Annarita, allowing the sneaker to naturally darken and develop a unique patina with wear.

“Reintroducing the Primo for our ten-year anniversary is incredibly meaningful,” said Johannes Quodt, co-founder of Koio. “It was the shoe that launched the brand, so bringing it back with Rose Anvil’s technical rigor felt like the right way to honor its legacy. The Vachetta leather will age beautifully, making this one of the most personal and character-rich versions we’ve ever created.”

The Primo first debuted in February 2015 at Koio’s Bowery pop-up, created by the founders as their ideal high-top sneaker. The silhouette remained a core style for five years before the brand shifted focus as its range expanded. Koio continued to receive requests from collectors and longtime customers to bring back the original design, prompting the reissue as part of the brand’s tenth-anniversary celebrations.

“The Primo was already a well-built sneaker, but replacing every internal synthetic component with leather significantly elevates the craftsmanship,” said Weston Kay, Rose Anvil. “Using untreated Vachetta leather means the shoe doesn’t just look good out of the box but it continues to improve over time.”

Koio’s work with Rose Anvil follows the success of their first collaboration—the Koio x Rose Anvil Capri Triple White—which sold out in less than 24 hours.

The limited-edition Primo is priced at $325 and is now available exclusively online.

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Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3

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December 7, 2025

Victoria’s Secret & Co. on Friday reported better-than-expected sales in the third quarter, prompting the U.S. lingerie giant to raise its full year outlook.

Victoria’s Secret raises full-year outlook on strong Q3. – Victoria’s Secret

The Ohio-based company said sales for the three months ending November 1 totalled $1.472 billion, up 9% from the third quarter of 2024 and above its previously communicated guidance range of $1.390 billion to $1.420 billion. Meanwhile, total comparable sales for the third quarter of 2025 increased 8%.

Victoria’s Secret recouped its earnings, reporting a net loss of $37 million, or $0.46 per diluted share, compared to net loss of $56 million, or $0.71 per diluted share, for the third quarter of 2024.

“With two iconic brands, Victoria’s Secret and Pink, a curated product assortment, high-emotion marketing and a relentless customer focus, we are reinforcing our leadership in global intimates and beauty,” said Victoria’s Secret & Co. CEO, Hillary Super.

“As we continue to advance our Path to Potential strategy, we are accelerating global growth, elevating brand distinctiveness, and unlocking greater value across our ecosystem to drive long-term profitable growth.”

Looking ahead, the company is now forecasting full-year net sales in the range of $6.450 billion to $6.480 billion, compared to prior guidance of $6.330 billion to $6.410 billion for the full year 2025. Adjusted net income per diluted share is estimated to be in the range of $2.40 to $2.65, compared to prior guidance of $1.80 to $2.20.

For the fourth quarter, the company is forecasting net sales to be in the range of $2.170 billion to $2.200 billion compared to last year’s fourth quarter net sales of $2.106 billion.

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