Liberated Brands, which until recently operated skateboard and surfing-inspired retail brands including Quiksilver, Billabong and Volcom, has filed bankruptcy as more customers choose “fast fashion” competitors.
Liberated sought court protection in Delaware Sunday, saying it intends to close its stores as part of a wind-down of its North American operations. The company, which had operated the brands under a deal with brand licenser Authentic Brands Group LLC, said it will also seek to sell its international businesses and has closed its corporate offices and laid off nearly 1,400 employees.
The bankruptcy filing caps a rapid rise and sudden fall of a business that was founded in 2019 after Volcom’s management team sold that brand to Authentic, which has acquired several several retail brands through Chapter 11. Liberated listed more than $100 million in liabilities on its Chapter 11 petition and has lined up a $35 million loan to fund the bankruptcy.
Liberated’s revenue increased from $350 million in 2021 to $422 million in 2022, a jump the company attributed to a sharp increase in demand during the Covid-19 pandemic and acquisition of more brand licenses. About half of the company’s income came through retail sales on brand websites and physical stores and selling apparel wholesale to other retailers, according to court documents.
The business expanded in 2023 when Liberated started running several more Authentic-acquired apparel brands, including Billabong, Quiksilver, Roxy, and RVCA. But Liberated CEO Todd Hymel said in a court filing that the company’s fortunes changed as the effects of the pandemic abated and interest rates began to rise, resulting in lower demand for its offerings.
Company management believed the trend would diminish last year but in the past 18 months “the average consumer has shifted their spending away from discretionary products such as those offered by Liberated,” Hymel said. The business was also hurt by a shift to large “fast-fashion” retailers that can sell garments at lower prices and capitalize on so-called micro-trends as opposed to the traditional seasonal retail model, he said.
“Consumers can cheaply, quickly, and easily order low-quality clothing garments from fast fashion powerhouses and have such goods delivered within days,” he said.
Authentic in December terminated Liberated’s North America license for the wholesale businesses of Volcom, RVCA and Billabong after the company failed to make a royalty payment, according to court documents. The license rights to those brands were subsequently transitioned to new operators, Hymel said.
The case is Liberated Brands LLC, number 25-10168, in the US Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware.
Fast fashion retailer Shein‘s plans to list in London face a challenge from a group campaigning against forced labour in China, which said on Monday it would apply for a judicial review of the IPO if Britain’s regulator approves the flotation.
The group, Stop Uyghur Genocide, claims the retailer’s supply chain in China includes cotton produced by Uyghur forced labour. Its plan to apply for a judicial review could increase pressure on Britain’s Financial Conduct Authority, though it faces a high bar to succeed.
The FCA said it cannot comment on potential listings. Shein said it strictly prohibits forced labour in its supply chain globally. The online retailer aims to list in London in the first half of this year if it gains regulatory approvals, two sources with direct knowledge told Reuters last month.
In a similar challenge to an IPO in 2023, environmental law group ClientEarth applied for a judicial review after the FCA approved oil producer Ithaca Energy‘s flotation, but the High Court denied the application saying it could not be proved the FCA had failed to disclose material risks.
The U.S. government and rights groups say Uyghur minority people are subject to abuses including forced labour in internment camps set up by the Chinese government in the Xinjiang region. China denies any abuses.
Xinjiang produces around 80% of China’s cotton and accounts for a fifth of global cotton production, exposing most global apparel retailers and brands to this risk.
In written evidence to UK lawmakers, Shein said it only allows cotton from approved regions, which do not include China, for its products sold in the U.S., its biggest market, as part of its compliance with the U.S. Uyghur Forced Labour Prevention Act (UFLPA), which prohibits the import of products made in Xinjiang or made by designated banned companies.
Shein did not specify whether its restrictions on cotton sources applied to products sold in other markets, such as the UK. The retailer does not prohibit the use of Chinese cotton in its products where such use would not breach relevant laws and regulations, it added.
Administrators of bankrupt Signa Prime Selection AG are preparing to launch the sale of the Vienna Park Hyatt and adjoining luxury retail premises, including Prada’s flagship store, according to people familiar with the matter.
Real estate investment bank Eastdil Secured LLC has been appointed to offer the properties that are expected to attract bids in the region of €350 million ($361 million) to €370 million, two people said, asking not to be identified as the process is not yet public. The 146-room hotel accounts for roughly half of that price tag, with the luxury stores adjacent to another Signa asset, the so-called Golden Quarter, making up the other, they said.
The properties have about €155 million of debt secured against them from German pension fund Bayerische Versorgungskammer, one of the people said. Signa had valued the building at €422 million in a 2022 presentation to investors seen by Bloomberg.
Representatives for Signa Prime’s insolvency administrator and Eastdil declined to comment.
The launch of the sale process will coincide with the annual Mipim property conference in the second week of March, an annual gathering of real estate investors in Cannes attended by Signa founder Rene Benko in the past. It comes after a spate of recent Signa sales including the Upper West tower in Berlin and the Viennese palais that houses Austria’s Constitutional Court.
The unraveling of Benko’s Austrian property empire has provided a rare source of high-profile deals at a time when Europe’s real estate markets grapple with higher interest rates. Would-be sellers have been reluctant to offer properties for sale after the spike in borrowing costs impacted valuations, preferring to cling on and hope for a recovery rather than crystallizing losses.
Hotels have been a rare bright spot amid the commercial real estate gloom, with the management agreements on which they typically operate helping to shield landlords from inflation. That’s because room rates can adjust immediately to higher costs in contrast to offices or stores that are typically held on long-term leases with fixed rents.
Hyatt Hotels Corp. has a long-term management agreement for the property, offering some of Vienna’s priciest accommodation. The 820 square meter (8,826 square feet) Royal Penthouse Suite is available for $13,200 per night, including taxes, according to a listing on Expedia.
Benko is in pre-trial detention as prosecutors investigate suspected fraud. He has denied wrongdoing.
Signa Prime’s administrators have been attempting to claw back cash for creditors through property sales, as well as seeking damages and repayments from former managers and business partners. Asset sales have been complicated by the company’s complex debt structure.
L’Oréal Groupe announced on Monday the appointment of Christina (Tina) Fair as president of the consumer products division (CPD) for the North America Zone.
Fair succeeds Nathalie Gerschtein, who is stepping down to pursue new opportunities outside L’Oréal Groupe.
“I’m thrilled that Tina will now be taking the helm of our Consumer Products Division and our extraordinary portfolio of Consumer Division beauty brands, including L’Oréal Paris, Maybelline New York, Garnier, Essie, and NYX Professional Makeup,” said David Greenberg, CEO of L’Oréal USA and president of the North America Zone, who Fair will report to, alongside Alexis Perakis-Valat, president of the consumer products division for L’Oréal Groupe.
“I have seen Tina step change every business she has run as we have witnessed with the dermatological beauty division under Tina’s leadership. Her strategic vision, bold decision-making, and entrepreneurial mindset position her and the division for continued success.”
Fair joined L’Oréal in 2008 and has held leadership roles within the U.S. consumer products division, including senior marketing positions with Garnier and Maybelline New York. In 2015, she led global marketing for SkinCeuticals before becoming U.S. general manager for the brand.
Most recently, since 2020, Fair has served as president of L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty (LDB) in the North America Zone. Under her leadership, LDB became the group’s third-largest U.S. division, with brands like CeraVe, La Roche-Posay, SkinCeuticals, Skinbetter Science, and Vichy achieving significant sales growth and increased market share. LDB’s products became top recommendations among dermatologists, pediatricians, and pharmacists.