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Elsewhere in Milan: Tod’s, Kiton, Khrisjoy

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Three brands with distinct styles and identities took center stage in Milan this weekend, showcasing the city’s diverse fashion landscape. We caught up with Tod’s, Kiton, and Khrisjoy.
 

Tod’s: Lady Liberty Carla Bruni heralds artisanal intelligence

 
On Friday, Italy saw a new kind of Statue of Liberty at Tod’s. Carla Bruni appeared in the world’s largest bias-cut leather dress, standing before a sign that read “Artisanal Intelligence.”

Tod’s – Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Tod’s

Bruni—holding a massive needle instead of a torch—greeted guests as they arrived at the PAC art center. She stood on stilts in a three-meter-long dress, its leather bands extending into a train the size of a squash court.
 
Otherwise, what you see is what you get at Tod’s under the creative direction of Matteo Tamburini—no fashion tricks, no Instagram stunts, just polished clothes for women who want to look sharp while leading busy lives.

His standout pieces included minimalist military coats with splayed lapels, mannish sergeant’s shirts, and superb mauve suede redingotes that would flatter any woman.

Tod's – Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Tod’s – Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Tod’s

Equally striking were oversized double-layer cashmere coats, finely tailored pea coats with leather funnel necks, and nappa leather bombers. Accessories included a striking new platform riding boot in snakeskin and a sleek metal-band loafer.

Tod's – Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Tod’s – Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Tod’s

The collection’s color palette emphasized natural shades, burgundy, olive green, and caramel—echoing the hues Lady Liberty Bruni wore in her dramatic look.
 
 

Kiton: As good as it gets

 
Kiton has gradually developed a women’s collection over the past decade, and this season, the brand delivered its most successful feminine fashion statement yet.

Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Kiton

Kiton has also clearly been listening to its clients, notably with a refined après-ski capsule featuring double-face parkas paired with chinchilla waistcoats and zigzag Alpine cashmere roll-neck sweaters.
 
Staged in a series of Giorgio de Chirico-worthy mise-en-scènes, the collection’s standout elements included a rich rusty-brown section featuring soft, deconstructed windowpane-check blazers, fully reversible shearling redingotes that felt like mink, tobacco-brown corduroy pantsuits, and a striking silk-print femme fatale hostess dress.

Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Kiton

 
Kiton also presented an elegant opera-inspired section with white silk jumpsuits and a refined cashmere evening coat with the subtlest whisper of a chalk stripe.

Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Kiton– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – © Courtesy of Kiton

 
The brand showcased the collection inside its Via Pontaccio showroom, arranging it in multiple metaphysical tableaux—a nod to De Chirico in Pompeii—a fitting reference, given that Kiton is Naples’ finest luxury label.

Khrisjoy: Suddenly reborn and rocking

 
One brand suddenly on the move is Khrisjoy, an outerwear label that drifted during the COVID pandemic but now has a new lease on life.
 
In a Milan dominated by beige and gray, it was refreshing to see a brand channeling Italian enthusiasm and a love of color.

Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Ezra Petronio

 
The collection embodied a fusion of activewear, cool athleticism, bold colors, and striking silhouettes. This was seen in circular-shaped puffers with ruched sleeves, Catherine de’ Medici-inspired tunics, flouncy ruffled contessa dresses, and windcheaters inverted into skirts.

Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Ezra Petronio

The looks appeared in a snappy campaign shot by Ezra Petronio of “Self Service” fame and a striking street photography series by the legendary Maripol, currently on display in the Montenapoleone metro station in Milan.
 
There were hints of Fiorucci and a few dashes of AZ Factory, but they were all strong influences. The collection was further complemented by the idiosyncratic food served at the presentation near the Duomo—multicolored pretzels and black “grissini” with carbon.

Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan
Khrisjoy– Fall/Winter 2025-26 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Ezra Petronio

Khrisjoy was founded in Milan in 2017 by noted stylist Marzia Bellotti and Maurizio Purificato, co-founder of the luxury Milan-based multibrand store Antonia. In 2021, Alsara Investment Group, an international private investment company based in Sand, founded by Rachid Mohamed Rachid, acquired Khrisjoy.

Now, after a brief sabbatical, Khrisjoy is back on the move. 

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Mayor asks for Londoners’ views on Oxford Street’s traffic-free future

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​The Mayor of London is aiming to move forward with his ultimate aim to pedestrianise Oxford Street and has launched a consultation  to get the views of Londoners and businesses on the proposal.

Photo: Pixabay/Public domain

They have until 2 May to let Sir Sadiq Khan know what they think with the Mayor hoping that the long-discussed pedestrianisation will create a “world-class, accessible, clean, avenue” that will boost visitor numbers to the famous shopping street, create jobs, and boost the city’s overall growth.

Pedestrianisation has been discussed for decades but the last attempt to push it through in 2018 was derailed by then-Conservative-controlled Westminster City Council, which said local residents were against the idea.

The Mayor now has greater planning powers for the area following changes after last year’s general election and the arrival of the new Labour government, which means he can take control of the area away from the council, which itself is now Labour-controlled.

Sir Sadiq said: “Oxford Street has been known as the nation’s high street but the area has suffered in recent years. My proposals are designed to unlock the true potential of Oxford Street and deliver a world-class, accessible, clean, avenue. These proposals would help to restore this famous part of the capital and support good businesses, while creating new jobs and boosting growth.”

Dee Corsi, CEO of New West End Company said: “We have long championed the regeneration of Oxford Street, recognising its vital importance to London and the UK economy. The launch of the public consultation marks a significant milestone in the journey of the nation’s high street.”

And Kate Nicholls, chief executive of UKHospitality, said the proposed changes would turn the area into “one of Europe’s biggest plazas”. 

But while the pedestrianisation is general seen as a good thing, there’s no denying that banning traffic from a massive artery in the middle of London would create problems elsewhere. 

Daytime traffic is already restricted to buses and taxis but with those removed, adjoining and parallel roads are likely to see heavier traffic.

And while pedestrianisation could boost shopping, the removal of the ability to hop of a bus or into a cab outside Selfridges, John Lewis et al while carrying bags of shopping could be an issue. Disabled access could also be reduced.

Sir Sadiq, who has the backing of deputy PM and local government secretary Angela Rayner, added: “This is a street that contributes hugely to our national economy. But over the last few years it has been in decline due to a combination of competition from online shopping and out of town centre malls. It needs to have an injection of inward investment from future flagship stores.”

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Harrods buying director hails Fendi and Erdem collections, thinks shaggy textures are key

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As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.

Fendi – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Italie – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.

He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.

As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.

In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.

The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.

He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.

“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.

Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.

Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.

Erdem – Fall-Winter2025 – 2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.

His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels. 

“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.

As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality. 

Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.

He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.

Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Oscars’ red carpet features sculptural and shiny gowns and some props

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By

Reuters

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March 3, 2025

“Wicked” star Ariana Grande walked the Oscars red carpet on Sunday in a sculptural flared pink top and a tulle skirt by Schiaparelli, one of several actors to make bold fashion statements.

Reuters

Whoopi Goldberg wore a shiny blue gown with a flared skirt, while British actress Yasmin Finney sported a black dress featuring feathery attachments that shot over her head.

“A Complete Unknown” star Elle Fanning chose a lacy white gown with a full skirt and black belt, while “The Brutalist” best supporting actress nominee Felicity Jones wore a silver dress with slits and a tie around the waist.

Demi Moore, favored to win best actress for “The Substance,” won a sparkling silver gown with a train flowing behind her.

Zoe Saldana, a favorite to win best supporting actress for her turn in “Emilia Perez,” wore a multi-tiered maroon dress with a sparkling top and long gloves on her arms.

“A Complete Unknown” best supporting actress nominee Monica Barbaro won a voluminous high-waisted pink skirt with a sparkly top.
Halle Berry wore a strapless silver gown with shiny small tiles running down the dress, while Gal Gadot chose a bright red gown with a full skirt.

Among the men, the black tuxedo was popular and Oscars host Conan O’Brien sported one. But Jeff Goldblum picked a white jacket and a floral purple shirt with purple flowers attached to his lapel.

“A Complete Unknown” best actor nominee Timothee Chalamet chose a lemon yellow suit and shirt.

Colman Domingo, nominated for best actor for “Sing Sing,” amped up his look with a bright red jacket and shirt and black lapels to go with the black trousers.

Comedian Bowen Yang wore a pink shirt and an embroidered leather jacket with no tie.

The creators behind the animated film “Wallace & Gromit: Vengeance Most Fowl” carried props related to their film, and one of the directors of the documentary feature about Ukraine, “Porcelain War,” carried a small dog in his arms.

© Thomson Reuters 2025 All rights reserved.



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