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Dsquared2 end its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International

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In a major strategic change Dsquared2 has ended its long-time licensing agreement with Staff International, the key operating company of Italian fashion billionaire Renzo Rosso.

Dean & Dan Caten, by Giampaolo Sgura

“Dsquared2 Group announces the immediate termination of its licensing agreement with Staff International S.p.A. Consequently, the Group will assume direct control over the production and distribution of its Ready-to-Wear collections,” the Milan-based house said in a terse release Saturday.
 
“This transition takes effect immediately and will commence with the upcoming Pre-Collection Spring/Summer 2026 sales campaign,” added Dsquared2, which was founded by twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten over three decades ago.

Staff International is the key production wing of Only The Brave, the holding company of Rosso, which also owns Diesel, Marni, Maison Margiela and Jil Sander, as well as the manufauring license of Viktor&Rolf.
 
“Dsquared2 Group expresses its sincere gratitude to all those who have contributed to this collaboration and looks forward to fostering continued partnerships in the future,” the release added.
 
The agreement with Staff International dates back to 2002, and helped fuel the spectacular development of Dsquared2, the last runway brand in Milan to have grown into a major global fashion brand.
 
Born in Willowdale, Ontario, Dean and Dan Caten (Catenacci, originally) began their career path in fashion by moving to New York in 1983 to attend Parson’s School of Design. In 1991 they arrived in Italy where in 1994, after numerous collaborations with major fashion houses, they first staged their debut runway collection. It marked the first in a long line of runway extravaganzas that would capture the attention of journalists and buyers for their unique brand of fashion, music and theatre.
 
The Catens went on to build a multi-million dollar business. And to dress everyone from Madonna in her iconic western video clip, “Don’t Tell Me”, to Beyoncé for her Super Bowl performance. The duo also has an impressive range, all the way to dressing the four-time English Premiership Champions, Manchester City. And a great HQ, a former electric energy headquarters converted into office, show-space, inn, gym and rooftop restaurant with swimming pool. They have become one of the city’s great fashion institutions without every losing the DNA of the Wild North. And famed for their ovations, where they take their bow in matching outfits – whether disco dragoons, Klondike trappers or matinee idols.
 
Leave it to the Canadian duo to stage an epic 30th anniversary show in Milan this past season, the cast marching out of a wrecked brick garage, or arriving in a series of mighty wheels. From armored personnel carriers and Ford Mustang convertibles to an all-silver DeLorean and a vintage Rolls Royce – all took turns arriving in the huge warehouse done up like a nightclub.

All of the Caten’s great archetypes got an outing. Mad saucy trapper girls in giant puffers and lots of legs; a trio of rockers with Kiss goth makeup but in three-piece suits; Klondike gold diggers off to an all-night rave; sexy vampy rock goddesses with bumster leather pants and fur coats with trains; and a beautiful black rodeo gal with mini cocktail made of bands of Western belts. Leading to the arrival with sirens of NYC police car, from which a dominatrix leather police captain played by Brigitte Nielsen escorted two white collar criminals. You guessed it – Dean and Dan.
 
And amid huge roars, JT and Doechii took the floor in a call and response duet surrounded by the entire cast.
 
Renzo Rosso’s fashion holding company OTB suffered a setback in 2024, seeing revenues fall 4.4 percent at constant exchange rates to 1.8 billion euros, recording EBITDA of 276 million euros and EBIT of 44 million euros. Retail (+7.4 percent), Japan (+16.3 percent) and North America (+13.3 percent) held up. Among the brands in the portfolio, Maison Margiela (+4.6 percent) and Diesel (+3.2 percent) performed positively. 
 
In the past fiscal year, the Vicenza-based company sustained investments of 77 million euros, with a focus on the expansion of the retail network and major innovation projects.
 
The departure of DSqyared2 will be seen as a setback for Rosso, who has long praised the brand as a dynamic creative force.
 
 
 
 
 

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InSpecs revenue down in 2024 but company upgrades medium-term targets

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Eyewear specialist InSpecs has released its preliminary results for 2024 and while its profit margin rose, revenue, underlying EBITDA and cash flows from operating activities all fell.

InSpecs

The company, which makes and markets its own brands as well as operating licenses for Barbour, Joseph, Radley, Superdry, Temperley and Viktor&Rolf, among others, said group revenue fell to £198.3 million from £203.3 million. At constant currency though it was only down to £203.2 million.

The gross profit margin rose to 52.2% from 50.9% but underlying EBITDA fell to £17.6 million from £18 million. Operating profit actually managed to rise to £3.4 million from £2.9 million but cash flows from operating activities were down to £14.2 million from £16.9 million. However, the company’s net debt excluding leasing was reduced to £22.9 million from £24.2 million.

The year saw a number of achievements including distribution agreed for key new brands in leading retailers across the US, Canada and Europe; completion of the group’s new state-of-the-art manufacturing facility in Vietnam; the integration of the US businesses; group centralised procurement generating supply chain efficiencies; the launch of a new optics product ‘Optaro’, being a video magnifier specifically made for smartphones; and new finance facilities put in place until 2027 with improved terms.

The company also responded to the current tariff situation and doesn’t seem excessively worried.

Its non-US based businesses aren’t currently affected by the recent changes in tariffs, and the group is “confident that the continuing focus on supply chain efficiencies, reducing operational expenditure and selective pass through of cost increases to preserve margins across key markets will largely mitigate the effects of these new tariffs”.

The company also set out its medium-term ambition to deliver CAGR organic revenue growth 40% above the market rate, which is currently forecast to grow at 3% CAGR over the next five years, as well as double-digit underlying EBITDA.

CEO Richard Peck said the firm “demonstrated resilience in 2024 despite challenging macroeconomic conditions, with revenue declining by 2.5% due to softer consumer demand and competitor consolidation. However, our continued focus throughout the year on the integration and simplification of our business has been significant.

“The first quarter has laid the groundwork for a pivotal year and as we move forward, the focus remains on sharpening efficiency, streamlining operations, and advancing key initiatives. Notwithstanding the recently announced tariffs and caution in relation to market conditions, compelling new projects in the pipeline give us confidence in delivering on market expectations for 2025.”

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Fashion Revolution unveils 2025 theme and plans

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Fashion Revolution, which says it’s the world’s largest fashion activism movement, has announced details for Fashion Revolution Week 2025 that runs from 22-27 April.

Photo: Pixabay

The theme this year is Think Globally, Act Locally as it aims to engage local communities and policy-makers.

It’s an undeniably big aim and comes “as governments worldwide backslide on legislation aimed at protecting the environment and garment workers’ rights, global brands are also silently deprioritising their sustainability goals and fossil fuel divestment, highlighting why collective citizen action matters now more than ever”. 

Fashion Revolution Week 2025 will mobilise citizens through its network in over 80 countries and beyond, “to come together, raise awareness, upskill themselves, and advocate for improved social and environmental legislation, amplifying the message that fashion brands need to be held accountable for their impacts and increase transparency throughout their supply chains”.

Executive director Sarah Jay said: “As we usher Fashion Revolution into its second decade, we must build upon the spirit of allyship, inquiry, and community in which we were founded. Fash Rev’s inaugural question, ‘Who made my clothes?’ is as relevant now as ever. We must continue to ask bold questions, and demand transparency, solid commitments, and tangible action plans from brands, stakeholders, and policymakers. We must organise locally, connect strategically, and make our voices heard in support of greater legislative protections for the global fashion workforce, for biodiversity, and for the ecosystem services we continue to exploit through overproduction and consumption.”

The group has a Local Issues Toolkit that can be downloaded. It contains an overview of industry issues, as well as resources to help hone in on what’s most relevant to those taking part and their immediate community. 

It’s advising on how to engage local policy-makers and there’s a Mend in Public Day planned for 26 April. This follows a successful launch in 2024. “Armed with needle and thread, Fashion Revolutionaries will be mending and stitching in protest of overproduction and consumption. Because in an age of throwaway fashion, repairing our clothes is a revolutionary act. Take the opportunity to join your local community, repair torn pockets and ripped seams and spark conversations on how to make Loved Clothes Last,” Fashion Revolution said.  

Together with Slow Stitch Club, it’s also hosting an Online Darning Workshop on 26 April.

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New Burberry summer campaign takes a trip to the seaside

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Burberry has taken an unusual approach for its High Summer campaign with a slightly less polished approach than usual.

 

It feel like a series of holiday snaps captured on 35mm film, but as usual with the brand, it’s a very British feel.

Featuring British model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and British tennis player Jack Draper, alongside models Alva Claire and Babacar N’Doye, “plus a few unmissable extras”, there’s a focus on size and age diversity.

The camera pans from sun loungers to yacht deck, ice lollies to lilos. There’s “even a random scuba diver” with the company’s tongue-in-cheek response to this being that it “can neither confirm nor deny rumours that the ‘random scuba diver’ is, in fact, the Burberry Knight”. 

It’s all what creative chief Daniel Lee calls a “Burberry celluloid postcard – an arc of British idiosyncrasies and humour, with factor 50 on”. 

He also said it was inspired by various “incredible yachting and holiday images” he found in the archive.

The campaign also includes a series of special events and hotel takeovers at surprise locations (actually The Newt in Somerset, England and The Standard on Ibiza in Spain) and the film celebrating the new High Summer capsule collection.

The film’s British feel is underscored with the ‘Shipping Forecast’ theme tune and the company said it “sits in charming contrast to its soundtrack. A ‘wish you were here?’ of sorts: two weeks away in the sun, but back home it’s raining”.

The cast wears the High Summer collection: a mix of check swimwear and shirt dresses. Nautical motifs, like knots fashioned into logos and sailboats, decorate silk dresses, shirts and shorts, worn with slides or espadrilles. Bags this summer are crochet-knit or woven into jacquards.

Lee said “we wanted to capture the joy of the British at play. A kind of kick-start to the summer. Burberry is a brand for all the seasons, don’t forget.”

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