German beauty retailer Douglas said on Monday it had been surprised by the speed at which the market had deteriorated in the last three months, which caused it to cut its guidance for 2025 on Thursday.
Reuters
It attributed the downturn to a “very significant” shift in the economy and politics globally that has hit consumers’ willingness to spend, especially in its key markets Germany and France, CEO Sander van der Laan told investors on a call.
“It will take awhile before we have this behind us,” he added.
Weakening demand for personal care and beauty products has weighed on consumer goods companies, with bellwethers such as Procter & Gamble and L’Oreal seen by analysts as better able to cope thanks to broader product ranges, marketing firepower and investments in new products.
In Germany, van der Laan also flagged pressure on Douglas’ sales and gross profit in its e-commerce channel from discounts at online perfume retailer Flaconi, which is owned by German media group ProSiebenSat.1.
Douglas said it did not believe its strategy was wrong, but flagged that it needed time to assess the situation and reflect upon its mid-term guidance for 2026 and beyond. (Reporting by Isabel Demetz and Linda Pasquini in Gdansk. Editing by Jan Harvey and Mark Potter)
Italian luxury group Ermenegildo Zegna said on Thursday its adjusted operating profit slid 16.4% to 184 million euros($198 million) last year, as the group pushed forward with investments despite a “challenging environment”.
Adjusted earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) was, however, above analysts’ consensus, as the group earlier this year said it expected it to be around 175 million euros.
The group, whose sales fell 1.9% last year to 1.95 billion euros in part because of weakness in China, said it now expects revenues in the range of 2.2 billion to 2.4 billion euros in 2027. Adjusted EBIT is expected to reach 250-300 million euros the same year.
“As we look further into 2025, we recognize the importance of maintaining a cautious approach while also remaining committed to delivering on our projects,” said Chairman and CEO Gildo Zegna in a statement.
“Especially in today’s environment, protecting our brands’ identity remains our first priority,” he added. Besides Zegna, the group also includes the Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion brands.
Digital fashion brand Arne is moving into permanent physical retail terriory for the first time and has chosen none other than Liverpool One for its debut.
The development comes after the Gen Z-focused clothing and footwear brand successfully tested the bricks-and-mortar market via pop-up stores at the Landsec-operated city-centre mega-mall.
The brand will open in July with the 6,750 sq ft flagship on Peter’s Lane, set to stock its “minimalistic” clothing and footwear. In line with the previous pop-ups, the décor will echo the brand’s “clean aesthetic, complete with simple steel walls, mirrors, and marble”.
Ryan and Reece Broadhurst, co-founders of Arne, said: “It’s been over a two-year process as we waited for the perfect location and perfect store, somewhere we want the brand to be positioned for decades to come.
“The first was always Liverpool. The city closest to our home, the city that helped us grow the most, especially in those all-important early days. Our most successful pop-up stores were in Liverpool with by far the biggest queues.”
Rob Deacon, asset management director at Liverpool One – Landsec, added: “As the biggest year of openings since [we] first launched in 2008, 2025 has many firsts in store for us. Arne’s debut permanent store is certainly an exciting first, and one of several brands to put their confidence in us time-and-time again, coming as a direct response to the strength of partnership we have cultivated.
“Arne’s pop-up-to-permanent trajectory paints a picture of Liverpool One’s ongoing commitment to adding best-in-class brands to its line-up and is an example of the demand for the best spaces in the UK’s top destinations from digital natives that are looking to expand.”
British luxury brand Represent has unveiled not one but two new limited-edition collections. They’re from previously unseen graphics and standout rereleased pieces from the last 10 years, under the Legacy and Archive names.
The unique launch, which is separate from the brand’s usual in-season weekly releases, targets the “die-hard Represent fans to celebrate the brand’s history” that began in 2011 by brothers George and Mike Heaton.
The eight-piece Legacycapsule includes T-shirts, hoodies and joggers featuring inspirational all-over prints of creative director Mike’s initial sketches as well as never-seen-before sketches, all replicated in their original styles and colours.
Legacy also holds “a deep personal significance” to Heaton, with references to his own tattoos, milestones and memories from over the years, “paying homage to Represent’s achievements, launches and collaborations since the brand’s inception”. Artworks include graphics from the brand’s first collection – FW13 Ghost – as well as sketches of its most popular signature prints from past seasons; the Reaper, Jaws, Dobermans, Woman from the Storms, the 247 Saint George and Lovehunter.
Available in two colourways (Buttercream and Vintage Grey) and in Represent’s signature oversized cropped, boxy fits and complete with raw edges, all are constructed from a heavyweight premium cotton fabric.
And now to the eight-piece capsule entitled Archive, which sees George’s favourite pieces re-released for this special one-time limited run.
Archive features the Bordeaux Brushed jacket and the brand’s first Mohair check overshirt which both debuted during the brand’s SS18 New York Fashion Week runway show, as well as the Gallagher cable knit sweaters and archive military trousers.
The collection also includes the rereleased Terrier sneaker, launched in 2018. Featuring premium suede and rubber detailing, as well as a chunky Vibram sole, the Terrierhas since become a wardrobe essential, coveted by Represent collectors globally, it said.