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Despite a 3.1% contraction in 2025, Italy’s footwear sector sees the light at the end of the tunnel

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December 23, 2025

Despite the persistent crisis affecting the fashion sector, the Italian footwear industry is beginning to show signs of recovery, even as it closes the year down 3.1%: the third quarter, in fact, ended with a 0.9% decline, “a markedly better result than the steep contractions experienced in the first half of the year,” notes a press release from Assocalzaturifici.

Giovanna Ceolini

“The current overall picture remains complex and spares not even the highest end of the market, but the third-quarter figures point to a slowing of the decline and a first glimmer of light at the end of the recessionary tunnel,” said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. “Despite the lack of significant improvements on the geopolitical front, our companies’ ability to maintain a strong foothold in European markets and to capture demand in the most dynamic areas, such as the Middle East, is key to navigating 2026. Although business performance is uneven, with several firms still under strain, the modest downturn expected in full-year revenue (estimated at 12.8 billion euros) confirms the resilience of Made in Italy.”

On the foreign trade front, exports reached 7.72 billion euros (-1.3%) in the first eight months of 2025. The most significant figure concerns volumes: 131.8 million pairs were sold abroad, up 4.3%. This recovery in volume was accompanied by a normalisation of average prices (58.58 euros per pair, -5.3%), signalling a correction after the double-digit increases of 2022/2023.

The EU (which takes seven out of every ten pairs exported) is growing in both value (+2.2%) and volume (+7.6%). Germany stands out with a solid 6% rise in value and 10% in pairs, while positive results were also recorded in Spain, Poland, Belgium, and Austria. Outside the EU, the Middle East remains the most dynamic region, with overall value up 13%, driven by a surge in the United Arab Emirates (+20%). Turkey and Mexico also performed well. The Far East, by contrast, remains under pressure, with a contraction of more than 20% in both volume and value, affected by the sharp slowdown recorded in China (-24.6% in value) as well as in all the other main Asian markets (Hong Kong, Japan,and South Korea), and by the CIS region (-9.2%, with -17.8% in Russia), still hampered by the conflict.

“The US market remains under close watch, with the eight-month period closing up 2.9% in value against a decline in volumes (-4.2%). The sector is cautiously assessing the impact of the tariffs set under the US-EU agreement: while August registered a discouraging -17.8% in value, preliminary September data show a responsiveness that was, in some respects, unexpected. To date, 55% of member companies exporting to the US judge the effects of the tariffs to be far from negligible, with one in five companies facing severe difficulties,” the note concludes.

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Numero237 opens in Porto, Portugal with vintage fashion and more

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December 23, 2025

 new vintage store specialising in designer fashion, ceramics, and photography books, called Numero237, takes its name from its location on Rua de Miguel Bombarda in Porto, famed for its concentration of art galleries, cultural spaces, independent designer fashion boutiques, decorative arts, architecture and much more. Although Numero237 specialises in second-hand designer fashion, focusing on pieces by young, daring designers, it also carries Portuguese ceramics from iconic brands such as Vista Alegre and Sepal, as well as photography books.

@numero.237 / Instagram

A post on the store’s Instagram account reads: “There’s a new place of discovery in Bombarda- Numero237, an archive specialising in second-hand designer fashion, now with a physical space on the street that lends it its name. A place where clothing, photography, vintage ceramics, and design coexist with sensitivity and good taste.” 

“Numero237 brings together pre-owned pieces by Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, Helmut Lang, Jean Paul Gaultier, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yohji Yamamoto, among others, as well as fashion books and objects that bridge art and everyday life,” the post continues.

@numero.237 / Instagram

After opening one of Porto’s first vintage stores in 1997, Gonçalo Velosa has returned to the concept he honed in the British capital, where he lived for years, now in the heart of the Porto Art District: “I wanted this to be a space which, although it sells brands that can sometimes be a little elitist, also offers more accessible pieces,” he told Time Out.

“I’ve tried to create an environment where no one is afraid to explore, touch and try things on, because there are certain spaces where you think twice before going in, because they’re so controlled and formal,” says the entrepreneur, who has since settled in London to study Fashion Design, going on to open House of Liza, a space in the Hoxton neighbourhood with a rigorously curated selection of iconic pieces. At Miguel Bombarda, major names in fashion and design also stand out, such as Alexander McQueen, Comme des Garçons, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Helmut Lang, Issey Miyake, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Valentino, to name a few. 

@numero.237 / Instagram

Numero237 opened in September, focusing on the categories and styles of women’s and men’s fashion that Gonçalo Velosa sources on trips abroad, never neglecting quality as a point of difference. 

“Everything on sale here is free from defects; it goes through a cleaning process,” he also told the local edition of the London-based magazine founded by Tony Elliott in 1968. “I don’t buy anything just because it carries a particular brand label, but because I see aesthetic or cultural interest in it.”

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The 2025 Africa Cup of Nations puts African fashion centre stage

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December 23, 2025

Morocco: a red carpet for traditional African attire? The host of the 2025 Africa Cup of Nations (CAN) has seen numerous national teams dressed in traditional outfits, not just their jerseys. Fashion brands such as Daily Paper and Puma have also marked the occasion with collaborations honouring African cultures.

Adidas and Arte Antwerp have released a collaboration in Morocco’s colours, the host nation of the competition – adidas/Arte Antwerp

Embroidered green kaftans and matching hats for Nigeria’s Super Eagles, black and gold or blue and white bogolans for Mali’s Eagles, colourfully detailed suits for Zimbabwe’s Warriors… Though not all the designers of these traditional outfits were credited, their success has been unanimous on social media. The CAN, which stirs passions every two years, shines a powerful spotlight on African craftsmanship and fashion.

Craftsmanship and cultures in the spotlight

The team most in the spotlight, both for their title as 2024 African champions and for their dazzling traditional attire, is Côte d’Ivoire. Nicknamed the Elephants, the Ivorian players arrived in Morocco in Kita cloth trench coats adorned with Adinkra motifs in white and gold thread (symbols drawn from the heritage of the Akan people), worn over white shirts and trousers. The outfit is by Elie Kuame, an Ivorian-Lebanese designer based in Abidjan (Côte d’Ivoire) since 2017. His “prêt-à-couture” brand, created in 2006, showcases African fashions in all their diversity, positioning them as luxury pieces.

Outfit designed by Elie Kuame
Outfit designed by Elie Kuame – Fédération Ivoirienne de Football

Another designer in the spotlight is the creator behind the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) outfits, Alvin Junior Mak. Born in the DRC and having moved to Paris in childhood, the designer produced the pieces directly in the Democratic Republic of Congo, working with local artisans. The result is sculpted jackets featuring the leopard motif that characterises the DR Congo national team, bearing the JmakxParis name, his sustainable ready-to-wear label.

Brands seize on the event

Finally, Burkina Faso and the Étalons called on a Burkinabé brand, Free Design, to create their outfits. Its designer, Ahmed Ouedraogo, opted for a white tunic with green and red stripes, the colours of the national flag, with symbols on the collar and chest. The outfit is completed by white trousers and a hat.

Daily Paper makes its presence felt in Marrakech
Daily Paper makes its presence felt in Marrakech – Daily Paper

Some global brands have also seized on the event, starting with Daily Paper. The label is collaborating with Moroccan artist Hassan Hajjaj on his Kech United project, a cultural programme organised in Marrakech during the Africa Cup of Nations. The event brings together football, art, fashion, and music, and Daily Paper presents a series of flagship events highlighting its connection to African culture and global youth communities.

Streetwear and sport celebrate diasporas

For this CAN, Arte Antwerp and Adidas have joined forces to create a joint collection in the colours of Morocco’s Atlas Lions. Worn by two players from the squad before their opening match against the Comoros, it includes a beige knitted jumper with green Adidas stripes and red Adidas and Arte logos, a red sweatshirt with white piping, several red, white or black tops with details in the same colours, and a black leather jacket.

Puma is particularly active on the sidelines of CAN 2025
Puma is particularly active on the sidelines of CAN 2025 – Izudin Yusuf

Finally, the German brand Puma is distinguishing itself in several ways on the sidelines of Africa’s biggest football gathering. As the CAN’s ball supplier, it has unveiled a model called Itri, featuring stars as a nod to Morocco and geometric motifs drawn from zellige, a Moroccan mosaic art. Puma has also released, in collaboration with Olympique de Marseille, a raft of jerseys in the colours of seven African diasporas present in the city, whose countries of origin- such as Senegal, the Comoros and Algeria—are participating in the 2025 Africa Cup of Nations.

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Esprit restructures following CEO and president’s resignations

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December 23, 2025

William Pak and his wife Christin Chiu, respectively CEO and chair of the board of directors of Hong Kong-listed fashion group Esprit, resigned from their roles on December 19. Bradley Wright, currently executive director of the group, has taken charge of Esprit ad interim.

Esprit

Pak was named CEO in 2022, having previously collaborated with Esprit as company transformation consultant, then CEO ad interim, and later as COO. He was tasked with the mission of stemming the group’s nearly decade-long decline, notably by streamlining Esprit’s costly European store fleet. Especially in Germany, the country which accounted for half of Esprit’s business.

“Relaunching a brand takes time, money, and sweat,” Pak said two years ago in an interview with FashionNetwork.com, in which he also mentioned the label’s rebranding effort, necessary because, in his opinion, Esprit had “lost its identity.” 

British executive Bradley Wright was named executive director and board member of Esprit Holdings Ltd at the end of 2021. As interim CEO, he will oversee the reorganisation of the group’s senior executive team, and especially an overhaul of Esprit’s European operations.

The executive director slots vacated by Pak and Chiu will be assumed by Jianyi Liu, formerly senior vice-president in charge of Esprit’s China operations, and by Li Hui, in charge of the group’s legal affairs in Asia.

These senior executive changes are occurring at the end of another troubled year for Esprit, whose revenue fell by 75% in H1. The group is relying on its licensing business to generate cash, in the wake of the insolvency proceedings for its German subsidiaries, which were triggered in 2024. 

They were followed by the default of Esprit’s US subsidiary in October 2024, while its French business went into judicial liquidation in September of the same year. The group recorded heavy losses in fiscal 2024, with revenue dropping by 16% to €4.6 million.
 

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