Denim is not exactly a haute-couture fabric, but it looked very at home in a great finale to a polished and dreamlike collection by Elie Saab, staged on a wild and wet Wednesday morning in Paris.
Climaxing a courageous collection with a half-dozen towering mannequins in denim – each more dramatic than the next. Led by Joan Smalls in an Oscar-worthy sari, a yard of denim thrown over her arm like a Rajasthani princess.
Followed by three bustier looks, the second in a punchy jumpsuit, finished with an off-the-shoulder opera coat. The third in a va-va-voom floor-sweeping gown slit up to the hip – and worn with drama by Lineisy Montero, the Dominican Republic beauty.
Everything finished with crystal floral embroidery – especially the fifth – wide pants combined with a mesh tulle top. The sixth and final exit was a brilliant expression of bias cut – an Adrian-worthy red-carpet gown on Candice Swanepoel, the Victoria Secret’s uber-supe from South African. She has rarely looked better. Talk about demonic denim.
Prior to that, there was a great deal of classical Saab couture – statuesque lace and metallic columns with glittering beading. Though he also broke new ground with several smoldering boudoir looks for very fit brides.
The collection winning Elie a huge roar of approval from the audience of some 600 guests inside the curving exhibition space of the Palais de Tokyo. Led by Bond Girl Olga Kurylenko, Brazilian star influencer Helena Bordon, and UK celebs Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Poppy Delevingne.
“I was in the mood for a new direction. So, when I asked Carine (Roitfeld, master stylist) what she thought of using denim, she responded, ‘Go for it!’ And we sure did,” chuckled a jolly Saab backstage.
Amazon.com is increasing its advertising on billionaire Elon Musk’s social media platform X, the Wall Street Journal reported on Thursday, citing people familiar with the matter.
The major shift comes after the e-commerce giant withdrew much of its advertising from the platform more than a year ago due to concerns over hate speech.
In 2023, Apple also pulled all of its advertising from X and has recently been in discussions about testing ads on the platform, the report said.
Several ad agencies, tech and media companies had also suspended advertising on X following Musk’s endorsement of an antisemitic post that falsely accused members of the Jewish community of inciting hatred against white people.
Monthly U.S. ad revenue at social media platform X has declined by at least 55% year-over-year each month since Musk bought the company, formerly known as Twitter, in October 2022. He had acknowledged that an extended boycott by advertisers could bankrupt X.
Musk has become one of the most influential figures following President Donald Trump‘s re-election. He now leads the Department of Government Efficiency, which aims to cut $2 trillion in government spending.
Italian luxury goods group Salvatore Ferragamo said on Thursday its revenue dropped by 4% at constant currencies in the fourth quarter, flagging “encouraging results” from its direct-to-consumer sales which were overall flat in the last three months of the year.
Sales in the North American region, which accounted for 29% of total revenue, were up 6.3% in the quarter. However, the Asia Pacific area saw a 25% drop in revenue at constant exchange rates.
The slowdown in global demand for luxury goods, especially in China, has made the group’s turnaround harder. Overall preliminary revenues reached 1.03 billion euros in 2024, in line with analysts’ estimates, according to an LSEG consensus.
“January shows an acceleration in our DTC channel’s growth, albeit supported by the different timing of the Chinese New Year and a favourable comparison base versus last year”, Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti said in a statement.
Spanish fashion and fragrance company Puig reported a 14.3% rise in fourth-quarter sales on Thursday, beating analyst expectations for the key holiday period.
The Barcelona-based company behind perfume brands Rabanne, Carolina Herrera and Jean Paul Gaultier said net sales for the three months to Dec. 31 were 1.36 billion euros ($1.42 billion), above the 1.30 billion euro average forecast from analysts polled by LSEG.
Puig, which generates most of its revenue from fragrance sales, is heavily reliant on the holiday season, with analysts estimating that nearly half of its prestige perfumes are sold in the quarter that includes Black Friday and Christmas.
The company, which also owns luxury skincare and make-up brands Byredo and Charlotte Tilbury, said full-year sales reached 4.79 billion euros ($4.99 billion), up 11% from 2023, surpassing its goal of increasing sales faster than the 6-7% forecast for the global premium beauty market.
The average of analyst estimates was for sales of 4.72 billion euros in 2024, given that it is less exposed to sluggish demand in China and that more than half of Puig’s revenue comes from Europe, the Middle East and Africa while 18% comes from the United States.
The 2024 performance of larger rivals such as Estee Lauder and L’Oreal was hampered by muted demand from China, where a property crisis and high youth unemployment have curbed consumer spending.
Puig said sales in its core fragrance and fashion business grew by 21% in the holiday quarter.
Sales in the make-up division fell 7.2%, with its Charlotte Tilbury brand affected by a voluntary withdrawal of select batches of Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray in December over what Puig described as “an isolated quality issue in a limited number of batches” detected during routine product testing.