Debenhams Group (which used to be Boohoo Group) issued its annual results for the year to the end of February on Tuesday afternoon and said adjusted EBITDA rose 3% to £41.6 million.
The new PrettyLittleThing
There were plenty of negative figures in the report too, but some things are clear – this is still a huge operation selling a massive amount of fashion and other products. And certain parts of the business are performing much better than others. The Debenhams brand in particular is a standout performer. But PrettyLittleThing (PLT), which was recently relaunched, clearly isn’t. It had a negative impact on the results and the company is exploring its sale.
The shares spiked upwards by about 3% on the news, which is understandable given the negative impact PLT has had on the group’s performance.
CEO Dan Finely said: “We have a clear plan to transform the business and a route map to generating sustainable profit growth. We are focused on delivering on the huge opportunity ahead for the Debenhams brand. Work is progressing to reposition and right-size the Youth Brands.
“This will be a multi-year turnaround. As part of our ongoing business review, we are exploring a potential sale of PLT. We are also assessing long-term options for our US and Burnley distribution sites to enhance efficiency and ensure alignment with our stock-lite strategy.”
He added that “all our brands are now trading profitably in terms of adjusted EBITDA”.
The numbers
Big news indeed, although at this stage it’s not certain that PLT will be sold. So let’s look at the figures for the group with and without PLT being included. In what was clearly a year of transition as the company changed its leadership and dived deeper into a marketplace model, GMV pre-returns and excluding PLT fell 2% to just under £1.607 billion and including PLT GMV fell 10% to almost £2.322 billion.
The Youth Brands’ GMV fell 19% to £795.6 million without PLT and fell an even wider 22% to £1.51 billion with PLT included. Meanwhile Karen Millen fell 3% to £157.1 million. But the Debenhams brand was up an impressive 34% at £654 million.
GMV for the company post-returns was up 1% with PLT excluded at just over £1.137 billion but was down 8% with it included at £1.639 billion.
Total revenue excluding PLT fell 12% to £790.3 million and with it included fell 17% to just under £1.218 billion.
The gross margin excluding PLT fell to 52.6% from 53.1% and including it fell to 50.7% from 51.8%.
That’s a lot of numbers to digest but it’s very clear the PLT is an issue.
Karen Millen
Profit… and loss
Profit-wise, the company highlighted the adjusted EBITDA figure mentioned at the start, but some of the other figures in the report were less impressive with adjusted EBIT a loss of £21 million. That said, this was an improvement on the £30.7 million loss on that basis a year earlier. The adjusted loss after tax also narrowed by 12% to £43.4 million.
Dan Finley, who took the helm last November, said that when he stepped up from running the Debenhams brand, “the board recognised the need for change following a long period of sustained and unacceptable underperformance. My immediate focus has been on stabilising the business and positioning it to take advantage of the significant opportunities ahead”.
Of that happily positive adjusted EBITDA figure, he added: “On appointment, [such an achievement] seemed improbable, but we quickly came up with a plan, confirmed our position with the market and executed it. This has only been possible due to the aggressive actions subsequently taken, including £50 million of annualised headcount savings.”
Debenhams brand leading the way
Finley called out “the standout performance of the Debenhams brand” as the year’s highlight and the brand’s adjusted EBITDA of £25 million (up £14 million year on year).
And he explained that the Debenhams “capital-lite, stock-lite, cost-lite, cash-generative marketplace model sits at the heart of our new strategy. The multi-year turnaround of Debenhams is the blueprint for the turnaround of the wider group”.
Other achievements include the group having “significantly reduced the capital intensity of the business. We have faced into legacy stock issues and reduced our stock holding by more than 50%. We have stopped unnecessary capital expenditure and reduced capex by more than 50%. Further reductions will be delivered this financial year”.
Improvements in its debt position have also been key and Finley explained that while “the business has been through a very challenging period which is reflected in these results. I want to assure shareholders that the business is taking the necessary actions, quickly and decisively, to address the challenges that we face. No stone will be left unturned”.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.