As it approaches its 20th anniversary in 2026, Copenhagen Fashion Week appears to be going from strength to strength. Hugely influential in terms of its pioneering sustainability focus, its latest outing last week also offered up some strong collections.

Also with anniversaries on her mind, Cecilie Bahnsen returned to Copenhagen Fashion Week for a landmark moment: a 10th anniversary show, set against the raw concrete expanse of Refshaleøen, a post-industrial peninsula. Part-retrospective, it was both a celebration of the past and its ongoing evolution with a look to the future.

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Most looks were one-offs, shaped by hand in the studio. There was a sense of extravagance here, “not in opulence, but in intention”. White and silver were the key non-colours as the label sent out a series of structured sheers with frills, appliqués, embellishment — think sculptural but soft. The show was titled Hana-bi, the Japanese word for fireworks, composed of the characters for “flower” and “fire.”

Swedish fashion house Filippa K showcased on the official CPHFW schedule with creative lead Anna Teurnell “introducing a marinière-inspired wardrobe of classic, relaxed prep influences with a sporty touch”. The pieces balanced functionality and style, moving from work and commute, to evening and leisure (although the work, commute and leisure elements were much more prominent than the evening). 

The presentation was held on the rooftop of the label’s Copenhagen store on Pilestraede, with stylist Alexandra Carl and 12 models debuting both womenswear and menswear looks.

These were easily and instantly wearable looks in a low-key palette of classics and neutrals. Think relaxed tailored pant and vest combos, bomber jackets in traditional khaki, Breton striped tops with slouchy jeans, and a line-up of simplified or traditional macs and trenches.

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By contrast, Baum und Pferdgarten’s collection, Notes from the Grandstand, galloped into the season “with a refined take on contrast” and strong colours. Inspired by the world of the Derby, it draws on the “vivid uniforms of jockeys, the movement of the racetrack, and the elegance of guests dressed to be seen. It’s a playful study of opposites, where sporting utility meets high-society glamour”.

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Creative directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave were attracted to the sharp colour-blocking and purpose-driven silhouettes worn by jockeys and guests’ extravagant outfits (again though, as with Filippa K, the jockey styles were more prominent than the guest looks). They came up with striped nylon nods to what jockeys wear, while checks and bold colour contrasts added “a feeling of movement”. Frilled details on sporty outerwear “introduce a feminine tension, subtly referencing classic equestrian attire”.

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There was underwear on the runway too. Swiss-born brand Sloggi unveiled a partnership with rising luxury womenswear brand Nicklas Skovgaard, who was “inspired by the private and intimate world of underwear and sleep”, making Sloggi a good partner for the show. Skovgaard worked with the brand’s signature pieces as well as new items such as ‘The Up’ – a push-up bra launching as part of the SS26 Zero Feel collection. But even when we weren’t looking at full-on Sloggi underwear, there were extravagant petticoats — either as star pieces or peeking out from under his signature sculptural looks — lace footless tights and negligée-like capes.

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Meanwhile, Rotate’s collection captured the mood of a “high-summer reverie, a season suspended in golden light, where femininity takes centre stage through fluid fabrics, daring silhouettes, and a palette kissed by the sun”. The creative directors said it was their “most feminine chapter yet, where softness becomes an expression of strength”.

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It was rooted in subtle nods to the 1970s, with “a warm, sun-drenched nostalgia that blends the era’s spirit with the brand’s signature modern refinement”. Fluidity was key as capes framed the face, sheer gowns skimmed the floor, silk utility bodysuits hugged the body, and low collars met soft suedes and denims. 

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Signature dresses took on fresh shapes from the season’s ubiquitous slip styles and sculptural columns to breezy scarf-tied designs. Linen tailoring debuted in dresses and suiting, while drapery was key for chiffon and satin pieces and gusseted details injected “a subtle architecture, marrying softness with form”.

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That may sound demanding but there were plenty of easy pieces such as the soft blouses paired with jeans, hot pant updates, or oversized blousons for quintessential early-into-late 70s looks.

The palette shifted between warm neutrals  taupe, softened whites, greys, and delicate pastels of faded peach, soft yellow, and light blues, all accented with subtle golden highlights. 

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And making their debut, Rotate’s upcoming shoes offer included animal-print slingbacks, soft yellow and red accents, and heels with sculptural flower detailing.