comfort, super desirable extreme knitwear and freedom

Iceberg opened Milan Fashion Week in signature style. The fashion brand, produced by Gilmar and celebrating its 50th anniversary, infused its Fall-Winter 2025/26 collection with a blend of Italian attitude, English heritage, and Irish knitwear expertise. Once again, British designer James Long took the creative helm, delivering a collection that balances tradition with contemporary edge.

“The heart of Iceberg is in the knitwear, and it is in mine as well. I consider this season’s collection to be quite cozy—comfortable yet always ultra-desirable. I wanted to celebrate the knitting, techniques, and treatments we love, blending them with tailoring that plays between tradition and subversion, in a dynamic, sporty dimension that is always in motion,” creative director James Long told FashionNetwork.com. “I focused heavily on the shapes of the garments. Laces structure the pieces, while knitwear techniques are pushed beyond their limits to express a strong point of view. Iceberg’s positive energy is embedded in these smart, metropolitan looks. My guiding principle was ‘freedom’—in textures, in the use of colors, and in a mix of smart constructions with a balance of softness, femininity, and draped fabrics, because I also love tailoring.”

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“This is an extremely complex and uncertain time, and the challenge for both creative direction and company leadership is to find the right path when everything feels so complicated,” said Paolo Gerani, CEO of Gilmar, speaking backstage at the défilé. “The state of fashion is intricate—you can’t sum it up in just a few words. Some markets are more fluid and spontaneous, but at the same time, there is a shift in the globalized approach, which is changing the way fashion operates. There seems to be a growing detachment, not just due to general uncertainty but also because of a shift in consumer attitudes. Shoppers are now far less drawn to what was once considered ‘fashionable.’ Today, they seek more democratic, affordable pieces and are no longer chasing constant, frantic change.”

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“In our industry, there are so many variables to consider. At Gilmar, we strive to stay true to ourselves and always deliver high quality, embracing a democratic Made in Italy approach, even in terms of pricing,” Gerani continued, though he acknowledged the ongoing challenges in the sector. “Some brands are thriving, but the core of the business is struggling. The outlook is complex, and I don’t have a clear vision of what lies ahead. I can’t predict when this period of uncertainty will pass—I can only hope that the wars and the resulting economic and financial tensions will come to an end. Beyond that, I believe greater attention must be given to employees and workers, who now have very little spending power. Reviving the economy will be extremely difficult.”

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Returning to the collection, a ribbed gray sweater stands out with its wide sailor collar, paired with tailored, masculine-cut pants cinched at the waist with a mock-croc belt. The ribbed knit dresses feature an open collar, a dropped waist, and a pleated skirt with fluid movement, layered over a check poplin miniskirt with ruffles for a playful contrast of textures and lightness.

Check tailoring achieves a balance between softness and structure, with a collar finished in faux leather for added character. A tuxedo shirt with ruffles is so delicate it verges on transparency. A masculine double-breasted check suit is layered under a lace-up poplin coat, finished with raw edges to subvert classic tailoring conventions. The color palette explores three key shades: variations of blue, pinkish gray, and tweed mustard.

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Since its inception, Iceberg has made knitwear experimentation its signature. This season, it takes form in navy maxi stripes on an oversized ribbed sweater, accented with wool panels on the shoulders for contrast and a sporty touch. The high collar rises snugly, lined with faux shearling for added warmth. Meanwhile, oversized inlaid wool plaid coats are structured with faux leather details and profiled edges, paired with knee-length poplin skirts featuring soft ruffles and metallic eyelets.

The collection also introduces a wool city coat seamlessly sewn onto plaid poplin fabric, as well as a faux leather jacket with a cracked effect that reveals color as it creases. Cardigans take on a sculptural quality through bonding techniques, styled effortlessly with soft jeans and sneakers. Tailored pants complete the lineup, offered in low-waisted, beltless designs with inverted pleats finished in satin or faux leather piping along the seams.

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Closing the show were two oversized cardigan coats, so wide they featured an integrated scarf that skimmed the floor, almost like a wedding dress.

Accessories stood out, including mock-croc sandals with triple buckles and a medium heel, as well as flat boots with a minimalist design. Belts in crocodile print ran throughout the collection, while maxi bags in faux crocodile leather offered versatility from day to night.