CIBJO publishes its first five jewellery reports, launches IFJA in Milan

CIBJO (Confédération Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfèvrerie des Diamants, Perles et Pierres) is the World Jewellery Confederation, the pre-eminent international body representing the entire global jewellery, gemstone, and precious metals value chain. Founded in 1926 (as BIBOA in Paris), it is marking its centenary by holding its annual congress at the Vicenzaoro September 2026 fair.

Created to represent the interests of the European jewellery trade, the organisation was restructured in 1961 as CIBJO with a global focus. Its members come from over 50 countries and, through its member organisations and commercial members, the association promotes the interests of more than 7.2 million businesses and 120 million workers. In 2006, CIBJO was granted consultative status with the United Nations Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC), pursuant to Article 71 of the United Nations Charter, which enables it to consult with ECOSOC, governments and the United Nations Secretariat on matters relating to the trade in gemstones and jewellery. It is the only body in the jewellery and gemmology sector to hold this status, which underpins the principal purpose of its work: establishing globally uniform and transparent nomenclature standards.

CIBJO publishes the renowned ‘Blue Books,’ a series of authoritative guides that set out rigorous standards and definitions for diamonds, precious and coloured gemstones, pearls and coral, precious metals, as well as responsible sourcing and provenance practices. For this very reason, many producers in the sector- particularly those who create artistic and designer jewellery, unbound by passing trends- have, over the years, often been critical of CIBJO, reluctant to be told how they should make their jewellery. Conversely, CIBJO maintains that its standards (developed, compiled, and updated by the most experienced and authoritative representatives of its members) constitute the most widely used set of globally recognised standards and models, and are subject to annual review. CIBJO draws on the work of 10 internal committees- Sustainable Development, Technology, Precious Metals, Coloured Stones, Diamonds, Ethics, Gemmology, Pearls, Coral, and Marketing and Training, each of which produces periodic special reports. Here are the findings of the first five.

Sustainable Development

The report by the Sustainable Development Commission, chaired by John Mulligan, notes that although regulatory complexity, cost pressures, and ever-changing consumer dynamics may make sustainability appear a heavy burden, it should instead be regarded as fundamental to the resilience of the jewellery sector, helping to ensure its continued relevance in a changing world. “Emerging evidence suggests that, if tackled strategically, sustainability can act not only as a response to risk, but also as a driver of value, innovation, the creation of reliable and adaptable value chains, and long-term growth,” notes John Mulligan.

Marketing and Training

The second report, written by the CIBJO Marketing and Training Commission, led by Jonathan Kendall, details the creation of the International Fine Jewellery Academy (IFJA) and previews two new guides on gemstones, one dedicated to opal and the other to jade.

The IFJA is the result of a collaboration between CIBJO, the Fondazione Mani Intelligenti in Valenza, Confcommercio Milano and CAPAC- Politecnico del Commercio e del Turismo. It is a hands-on jewellery-making academy, designed to train future generations of professionals. Based in Milan, its programmes include theoretical lessons in English and practical training in specialised workshops, as well as work placements with master craftspeople at partner companies in northern Italy.

IFJA’s training programmes will include an in-depth study of international industry standards, incorporating CIBJO’s principles relating to sustainability, ESG, responsible sourcing, transparency, and supply-chain traceability.

A key feature of the new academy is its links with the manufacturing sector. “Through partnerships with companies, workshops, designers, manufacturers, and industry organisations, the IFJA will offer students significant opportunities for experiential learning,” writes Jonathan Kendall. “These collaborations with industry will integrate theoretical training with practical experience, facilitating the direct transfer of professional skills and supporting young professionals as they enter the labour market.”

The new gemstone guides have been developed by two expert working groups under the guidance of the Coloured Stones Commission. “At first glance, given that we are dealing with just two gemstones, this might seem a simple task,” adds Kendall. “However, the facts (nomenclature, history, and traditions) surrounding both gemstones have long been obscured by ‘opinions’ and certainly by a lack of understanding of the different ‘cultures’.”

This is particularly true of jade, which traditionally encompasses products far more popular in the East- and in China in particular- than in Western markets. As Kendall points out, the Jade Guide provides a clear and integrated correspondence table linking traditional Chinese terms with those used in the West. The appendices list the Chinese trade names for ‘fei cui,’ and the English terms and their pronunciations are presented in tables alongside Simplified Chinese, Pinyin, and the International Phonetic Alphabet.

Technology

The report, drawn up by the CIBJO Technology Committee and led by Stéphane Fischler, offers an overview of the technologies likely to radically change the way jewellery is produced and sold, while also considering what must be done to preserve human individuality in the goldsmith’s craft, as noted on CIBJO’s website.

“Artificial intelligence, blockchain, the Internet of Things (IoT), and advanced data analytics are reshaping every link in the supply chain, from the mine to the market,” writes Fischler. “These innovations promise greater efficiency, traceability, and personalisation, but they also introduce new risks in terms of data governance, cultural identity, workforce redeployment, and the preservation of craftsmanship.”

The first issue is that virtual try-on tools using augmented reality also capture biometric data, such as facial geometry and hand proportions, and, moreover, the concentration of sensitive data creates a significant risk. “Jewellers hold profiles of affluent customers- names, addresses, purchase values, and important biographical data- which represent attractive targets for cybercriminals. A data breach does not just expose individual customers; it can permanently damage the trust on which high-end jewellery brands are built,” observes Fischler, who emphasises that relying entirely on the generative capabilities of AI could introduce elements of uniformity, particularly in jewellery design.

“AI-based design tools are structurally inclined to produce the statistically most significant result: designs that reflect the average of what has already been created,” writes Fischler. “In practice, this means an over-representation of Western European goldsmithing traditions and a systematic under-representation of the aesthetic languages of Mughal, West African, East Asian, and Indigenous cultures. The risk is a global homogenisation of jewellery design: a narrowing, rather than a broadening, of creative possibilities,” he adds. “Artificial intelligence can preserve the archive, but it cannot tell the story.”

“The most enduring competitive advantage will belong to companies that understand this difference and invest accordingly: in the people, practices and curatorial intelligence that transform accumulated knowledge into an expressed identity,” concludes Fischler.

Precious Metals

The CIBJO special report, drawn up by its Precious Metals Commission, led by Vaishali Banerjee, described 2025 as a “landmark year.” After two years in which gold had driven investment flows, in 2025 the gold rally was accompanied by those of silver and platinum- which also reached new all-time highs- and palladium, which recorded strong gains, although the impact on the jewellery markets was more nuanced.

“Although higher prices have affected volumes, the value of jewellery purchases has risen significantly, reflecting sustained consumer demand,” wrote Ms Banerjee. “Another trend that emerged was the substitution of precious metals across both price segments. The high-end segment saw a shift from gold to platinum, whilst, at the lower end, gold-plated silver jewellery increased in markets such as India and China, demonstrating that demand for jewellery remains resilient, even as consumer purchasing habits evolve.”

However, with prices so high, demand for gold from jewellery manufacturers fell in volume terms across all major markets, the report highlights. In Europe, demand contracted by 11% to 6.6 million ounces, partly due to pressure on margins resulting from the threat of 10% tariffs from the United States. Jewellery consumption also fell by 9.3%.

The US recorded its lowest ever consumption of gold jewellery, down 13% year-on-year to 3.7 million ounces. Rising gold prices, combined with pressure from the cost of living, dampened consumer demand, the report concludes.

The price of platinum more than doubled over the course of the year, rising by 135% from $977 per ounce in January to $2,303 per ounce in December. Nevertheless, the metal’s relatively attractive price compared with gold stimulated increased demand for platinum from jewellery manufacturers, with growth of around 10% year-on-year, reaching 2.214 million ounces- the highest level in the last eight years.

The price of silver also rose significantly in 2025, with spot prices increasing from $29 per ounce in January to $74.8 per ounce in December, a 145% rise year-on-year. However, demand for silver from jewellery manufacturers fell by 8% over the same period, standing at 189 million ounces. Exporters were affected by both high prices and US tariffs, according to the report.

“Looking ahead, the crisis in the Middle East, rising energy costs and the knock-on effects of customs duties are likely to keep markets volatile and consumer confidence cautious in 2026,” wrote Banerjee. “However, precious metals are likely to remain well supported by their enduring role as a store of value and a means of portfolio diversification.”

Diamonds

Prepared by the CIBJO Diamond Commission, chaired by Udi Sheintal, CIBJO’s fifth survey focused primarily on the proposal to adopt ‘synthetic’ as the preferred term to describe diamonds created through industrial processes, and to use the 4Cs exclusively for natural diamonds. “We must put an end to the use of the 4Cs for classifying synthetic diamonds, given that they are industrially produced. They should be subject to a specific nomenclature for quality control, suited to man-made products,” says Sheintal.

“When the 4Cs are used by the synthetic diamond industry to describe its own production, consumers are led to believe that synthetic diamonds are as rare as natural diamonds. This is clearly not the case, because the synthetic diamond manufacturer determines and controls the production parameters, with the aim of achieving predetermined quality characteristics.”

“Standards exist precisely because industries evolve,” continues Sheintal. “Therefore, the issue we face is not whether synthetic diamonds should exist. They are legitimate products, created through impressive technological innovation and meeting a legitimate consumer demand,” but rather, “do the terms we use today still serve the purpose for which the international nomenclature was originally created?”