Fast-fashion retailer Shein blazed a trail for Chinese companies in the US and European markets. Now, another China-based apparel brand wants to replicate its success.
Urban Revivo
With more stores than Inditex SA’s Zara and Hennes & Mauritz AB’s H&M in China, and catching up to them in Southeast Asia, Guangzhou-based Urban Revivo is set to open first US flagship store in New York City’s Soho Friday. It’s one of 25 stores outside of China founder Leo Li has planned for this year, including two more in London, and several in Japan and the Middle East.
If all goes well, new store openings outside China could accelerate next year, with overseas outlets reaching 100 by then, he said.
Meanwhile, Li is also sketching out a supply chain outside China that will eventually make at least half of the apparel sold in overseas markets. Production will start in Turkey this year for Europe, and the company is also exploring local manufacturing partners for the US market.
“We ventured out to Southeast Asia in 2016 but real globalization for fashion only starts when we break into US and Europe,” Li said in an interview with Bloomberg News, “Now our going global is for real.”
It’s an outsized ambition for a Chinese brand with annual sales of roughly $1 billion, just a fraction of what Zara, H&M and Shein can earn, but Shein’s global success shows Chinese apparel makers can secure a foothold in Western fashion capitals.
Urban Revivo not only plans to add storefronts, but also factories near or in the overseas market it will sell. That underscores the urgency to build a parallel supply chain as part of Chinese companies’ global expansion plans in the face of punitive trade policies unleashed by US President Donald Trump.
Trump’s tariff blitz and decision to close the so-called “de minimis” import levy exemption loophole has already forced China-linked companies to re-map their supply chains.
Shein is said to have been asking some of its top suppliers to add production lines in Vietnam, Bloomberg reported earlier in February. Meanwhile, Temu, operated by Chinese tech giant PDD Holdings Inc., is also giving up substantial control of its Chinese supply chain to encourage merchants to ship goods to US warehouses.
Unlike Shein, whose success in cracking the Western market rests in part on selling online, China’s brick-and-mortar clothing retailers have so far largely failed to crack developed markets. Brands ranging from sportswear maker Li Ning Co. to down-jacket maker Bosideng International Holdings Ltd. have shut flagship stores in prime locations in major US and European cities after failing to win over local consumers.
Still, a stagnant demand at home has prompted Chinese apparel makers big and small to seek growth in oversea markets. Li said he realized years ago global expansion is a must as Urban Revivo saw limited room to grow in a fragmented China womenswear space, where no single brand commands a market share more than 2%.
Urban Revivo estimates that US and Europe could eventually account for at least 30% of total sales, if the company manages to penetrate further. Currently, it earns the majority of its revenue in China, as well as a small fraction from the dozens of stores already operating in Southeast Asia.
It’s easy for Chinese companies to dominate in the category of trendy clothing, according to Li, where low price trumps brand loyalty.
To beat global giants like Zara and H&M in western markets, Li said it will stick to the playbook that worked well in China: leveraging its mature supply chain and e-commerce expertise to respond to fickle consumer tastes in days, rather than the weeks and even months that it usually takes for international rivals.
By contrast, global fashion brands have struggled to survive the competition, price wars and weak consumer sentiment in China, with Zara and Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing Co. recently shutting under-performing stores. They also face risks from growing nationalism. H&M sales tumbled in 2021 after Chinese consumers called for a boycott as the brand said it won’t use cotton from Xinjiang.
“For Chinese firms, everyone tries their best to create something new,” said Li. “You can say they are forced to because of the fierce competition, but they are indeed more energetic and quick.”
While Urban Revivo’s clothes will sell at roughly four to five times higher than Shein’s ultracheap fashion, Li said moving production closer to overseas market will save logistics and tariffs cost and keep the brand competitive with similarly positioned rivals such as Zara. Local suppliers will churn out trendy items, while factories in China still make less time-sensitive ones.
“You might feel China’s a huge market, but if you have ambition, if you plan to go public, the market is not big enough,” Li said. “We believe there will be more globalized Chinese apparel brands in the next decade.”
The Mayor of London is aiming to move forward with his ultimate aim to pedestrianise Oxford Street and has launched a consultation to get the views of Londoners and businesses on the proposal.
Photo: Pixabay/Public domain
They have until 2 May to let Sir Sadiq Khan know what they think with the Mayor hoping that the long-discussed pedestrianisation will create a “world-class, accessible, clean, avenue” that will boost visitor numbers to the famous shopping street, create jobs, and boost the city’s overall growth.
Pedestrianisation has been discussed for decades but the last attempt to push it through in 2018 was derailed by then-Conservative-controlled Westminster City Council, which said local residents were against the idea.
The Mayor now has greater planning powers for the area following changes after last year’s general election and the arrival of the new Labour government, which means he can take control of the area away from the council, which itself is now Labour-controlled.
Sir Sadiq said: “Oxford Street has been known as the nation’s high street but the area has suffered in recent years. My proposals are designed to unlock the true potential of Oxford Street and deliver a world-class, accessible, clean, avenue. These proposals would help to restore this famous part of the capital and support good businesses, while creating new jobs and boosting growth.”
Dee Corsi, CEO of New West End Company said: “We have long championed the regeneration of Oxford Street, recognising its vital importance to London and the UK economy. The launch of the public consultation marks a significant milestone in the journey of the nation’s high street.”
And Kate Nicholls, chief executive of UKHospitality, said the proposed changes would turn the area into “one of Europe’s biggest plazas”.
But while the pedestrianisation is general seen as a good thing, there’s no denying that banning traffic from a massive artery in the middle of London would create problems elsewhere.
Daytime traffic is already restricted to buses and taxis but with those removed, adjoining and parallel roads are likely to see heavier traffic.
And while pedestrianisation could boost shopping, the removal of the ability to hop of a bus or into a cab outside Selfridges, John Lewiset al while carrying bags of shopping could be an issue. Disabled access could also be reduced.
Sir Sadiq, who has the backing of deputy PM and local government secretary Angela Rayner, added: “This is a street that contributes hugely to our national economy. But over the last few years it has been in decline due to a combination of competition from online shopping and out of town centre malls. It needs to have an injection of inward investment from future flagship stores.”
As the world’s leading store buyers continue to analyse the key messages from Fashion Month so far, Simon Longland of Harrods has delivered his verdict.
The luxury department store’s fashion director of buying has given a thumbs-up to Fendi from Milan and London’s Erdem.
He said that “Fendi stood out as the highlight of Milan Fashion Week, delivering a collection that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication. The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season”.
As for Erdem, he thinks “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection — its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum”.
In terms of the fashion show event itself, he was also impressed by Dolce & Gabbana, which “mastered the art of spectacle, with models seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, where a live DJ set brought the energy of the show to the surrounding crowds. This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience”.
The key trends he’s focusing on from Milan include shaggy textures. “Shearling and faux fur dominated the runways, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings, and trims on trousers and skirts,” he said.
He also took note of the muted palette with a pop of red.
“Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown — from soft latte hues to deep espresso — emerged as the strongest colour story. Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux,” he explained.
Longland noted the leather and suede resurgence too “as a natural complement to the shaggy trend… and not just restricted to outerwear pieces”.
Oversized knitwear was also key with “chunky, enveloping knitwear add[ing] to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury”.
But his must-have piece for AW25 from Milan was “a beautifully crafted shearling coat” that he thinks “is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance”.
His key themes from London meanwhile included “green in its many shades — mint, apple, grass — woven through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels.
“A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened — muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee”.
As with Milan, he saw outerwear as a key “statement of both function and indulgence” but here it seems to have been less about shaggy textures than luxe details, colour and functionality.
Longland liked “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware [that] elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication”.
He thought art “left its mark” too, particularly in Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie that “brought portraiture to fabric”, while SS Daley “channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork, and Roksanda reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form”.
Overall in London, he thought the season “was about restraint and impact — where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever”.
“Wicked” star Ariana Grande walked the Oscars red carpet on Sunday in a sculptural flared pink top and a tulle skirt by Schiaparelli, one of several actors to make bold fashion statements.
Reuters
Whoopi Goldberg wore a shiny blue gown with a flared skirt, while British actress Yasmin Finney sported a black dress featuring feathery attachments that shot over her head.
“A Complete Unknown” star Elle Fanning chose a lacy white gown with a full skirt and black belt, while “The Brutalist” best supporting actress nominee Felicity Jones wore a silver dress with slits and a tie around the waist.
Demi Moore, favored to win best actress for “The Substance,” won a sparkling silver gown with a train flowing behind her.
Zoe Saldana, a favorite to win best supporting actress for her turn in “Emilia Perez,” wore a multi-tiered maroon dress with a sparkling top and long gloves on her arms.
“A Complete Unknown” best supporting actress nominee Monica Barbaro won a voluminous high-waisted pink skirt with a sparkly top. Halle Berry wore a strapless silver gown with shiny small tiles running down the dress, while Gal Gadot chose a bright red gown with a full skirt.
Among the men, the black tuxedo was popular and Oscars host Conan O’Brien sported one. But Jeff Goldblum picked a white jacket and a floral purple shirt with purple flowers attached to his lapel.
“A Complete Unknown” best actor nominee Timothee Chalamet chose a lemon yellow suit and shirt.
Colman Domingo, nominated for best actor for “Sing Sing,” amped up his look with a bright red jacket and shirt and black lapels to go with the black trousers.
Comedian Bowen Yang wore a pink shirt and an embroidered leather jacket with no tie.
The creators behind the animated film “Wallace & Gromit: Vengeance Most Fowl” carried props related to their film, and one of the directors of the documentary feature about Ukraine, “Porcelain War,” carried a small dog in his arms.