Founded in 1866 by Matías Pujadas in Mallorca, Carmina Shoemaker has evolved into a globally recognized artisanal footwear brand. Now in its sixth generation, the family-led business reached €20 million in revenue in 2024. “We are five siblings, a family business, and we want to keep it that way,” says commercial director Sandro Albadalejo. Looking ahead to 2025, Carmina is gearing up for key expansions, with new stores set to open in Luxembourg and London—moves expected to drive annual revenue growth of up to 15%.
One of Carmina Shoemaker’s stores in New York Carmina Shoemaker – Carmina Shoemaker
The Balearic brand maintains a balanced distribution strategy across its sales channels. Wholesale accounts for one-third of its revenue, with Carmina products available in 50 to 70 retail locations across Asia, Europe, and the United States. “We are not investing in wholesale; we prefer to focus on our own channels, where we have more control. That said, wholesalers give us access to luxury stores and high-value brands,” says Albadalejo.
Another third of sales comes from its global online platform, while the final third is generated through its retail network. Carmina currently operates seven boutiques, with locations in Palma, Madrid and Barcelona in Spain, as well as Paris, two in New York, and San Francisco—its latest addition, which opened in May 2024. “Between May and June, we will open a store in Luxembourg, and we are also finalizing a deal for a location in Mayfair, London, which will likely open before summer,” Albadalejo reveals. “We are also looking at Munich or Hamburg, as well as Tokyo, with openings planned between late 2025 and early 2026.”
The United States remains Carmina’s strongest market, followed by Spain and Germany, which ranks second in online sales after the US. Given the American market’s significant role in Carmina Shoemaker’s revenue, how does the company navigate tariff concerns? “This is the reality for us and all manufacturers today. The shoes we make here, which American customers demand, are not produced locally, so in that sense, we have some protection. However, if a 20% tariff is imposed, we will have to adjust our prices accordingly, which we understand could slow down demand,” explains the commercial director.
Since establishing as a footwear brand in 1997, Carmina has remained dedicated to traditional craftsmanship. The company operates two factories in Mallorca, where up to 100 artisans are involved in the production process. While primarily known for men’s footwear, its women’s collection now represents 25% of its catalog. “We have two in-house factories and produce 300 pairs daily—about 60,000 a year. Our facilities could increase production by 25% to 30%, but our focus is on high-end products rather than volume at lower prices,” says Albadalejo.
Carmina employs around 200 people and has subsidiaries in the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan, and France. The family’s holding company, Alta Zapatería Balear, fully owns these divisions.
With its deep-rooted heritage in bespoke shoemaking, Carmina Shoemaker has made personalization a core part of its identity. Customers can “design” their own shoes by selecting materials, finishes, and details such as buckles. The brand has also introduced a foot-scanning service—currently available in its New York and San Francisco stores—that creates a custom wooden last for each client, ensuring a perfect fit. “A bespoke pair of shoes in the UK can cost around £10,000. With our process, a similar product could be made for approximately €2,000,” says Albadalejo. The company plans to roll out this service gradually across its retail network.
Fashion Month may be starting to feel like a distant memory but the serious work of deciding what consumers will be buying in a few months’ time continues. And Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, thinks that after the Paris Fashion Week, Givenchy and Tom Ford will be high on luxury shoppers’ wishlists.
He said that PFW for AW25 was “a study in contrasts. While some houses navigated creative transitions, others delivered collections that reaffirmed their mastery. Sarah Burton and Haider Ackerman presented exceptional debut collections for Givenchy and Tom Ford, respectively”.
Meanwhile he also heaped praise on Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry, Pieter Mulier at Alaïa, and the Olsen sisters of The Row who “presented with absolute confidence, each demonstrating a clear vision and beautiful collections”.
In fact, those three labels, as well as Givenchy, stood out for Longland for “their precision, restraint, and craftsmanship. The most impactful shows were smaller in format, allowing for a closer appreciation of the pieces and the skill behind them”.
And what of the wider trends? He said that “texture defined the season. Shaggy faux fur and shearling were omnipresent, making statement outerwear the key investment, best layered over rich brown leather. Leather and suede extended into skirts, trousers, and shirting, reinforcing their role as foundational materials. Tailoring focused on sculptural silhouettes with quiet authority.
“Colour took a strong direction. Bitter chocolate brown emerged as the new black, complemented by tan and chestnut. Red, from scarlet to Bordeaux, was the boldest statement.
“Heritage fabrics grounded collections in tradition while ensuring modern relevance”.
Overall, thinks that AW25 in Paris “reaffirmed that true luxury is rooted in clarity, craftsmanship, and conviction. While some houses redefine their identity, others are at the height of their influence, setting the standard for the season ahead”.
An operator of several Forever 21 retail stores, once a go-to destination for affordable and trendy fashion, has filed for bankruptcy following years of declining performance.
Forever21
According to court documents, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in Delaware, listing assets between $100 million and $500 million and liabilities ranging from $1 billion to $10 billion.
Bloomberg reported in February that Forever 21 had been exploring various turnaround strategies, including a potential second bankruptcy filing.
This marks the brand’s second bankruptcy, following its first in 2019, which led to intense disputes, minimal creditor recovery, and the closure of hundreds of stores. Today, according to its website, Forever 21 operates more than 540 locations worldwide.
The retailer was acquired out of bankruptcy by a group of buyers, including Simon Property Group, Brookfield Corp. and Authentic Brands, through their joint venture, Sparc Group.
Earlier this year, Sparc merged with JCPenney to form Catalyst Brands. At the time of the merger, Catalyst stated it was assessing strategic options for Forever 21’s operations.
The company’s struggles reflect broader retail challenges, as inflation prompts consumers to cut back on clothing purchases. Forever 21 has also faced increased competition from online shopping, drawing traffic away from malls.
Selfridges has unveiled its spring campaign with a focus on Obsessions — that is “an, object or idea that Selfridges identifies as the most irresistible of the moment”.
It’s launched in London, Manchester, Birmingham and on selfridges.com with the retailer saying it’s actually been “a house of obsessions since 1909… THE place to find something new, a barometer of culture and fashion”.
So this new continuation of that features “a spectrum of Selfridges’s latest obsessions, niche or trending, of the moment or lifelong. Twelve Selfridges Obsessions for SS25 include Chess, Dogs, Hot Sauce and Martinis”.
They can be discovered in its windows, “and through playful product edits, events and experiences in all stores (including a chess club, a film club and a not to be missed opportunity for dog owners to have a portrait taken with their canine obsession)”.
And creatives including @pablo.rochat, @chrismaggio and @jakubgessler have been enlisted as collaborators.
Judd Crane, Selfridges executive director, buying & brand, said of all this: “Obsessions have become a social tender; a means of exchange and connection between likeminded people; the start of a friendship or a community. We had great fun coming up with our Selfridges Obsessions list, and in doing so we’re hoping to bring people together and open a light-hearted conversation around the things we love and why we love them.”
As well as those mentioned above, the retailer’s obsessions for the season include “Silver: the shiny, decorative detail or feature of SS25. Added to cupid bows at Miu Miu by Pat McGrath and one of JW Anderson’s shiny shift dresses”.
Also on the list are Power Flowers, “artistic three-dimensional forms, especially by crochet and appliqué on the season’s sought-after dresses or by casting metal for jewellery and art”.
And there’s High Gloss that “refers to Jil Sander trench coats, slick hair at Dries Van Noten, Gaetano Pesce chairs and the glass-like sheen that collectively defines them”.
Meanwhile, Fashion Comebacks make the grade too, with “notable pieces from past collections in a designer’s archive. Often worn or owned by iconic characters, models, celebrities. [And] styles reissued, often many years after their original fame”.
Then there are Matchsticks, “the stem of several SS25 Bottega Veneta looks. May appear on knitwear, dresses, or as decorative housewares”; and Long Weekends, “a short holiday created by adding a Friday and/or Monday to your weekend. Typically features French wine, tapas and new sunglasses”.
There are lots of in-store happenings connected to all this as well as a fashion film programme in partnership with SHOWStudio that offers film screenings, documentaries and panel talks.