After an intense month of fashion weeks- from New York and London to Milan and Paris- marked by numerous debuts at the helm of major houses, the fashion world is catching its breath. FashionNetwork.com sought to gauge buyers’ views on the season. Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le Bon Marché, notes the rise of the trouser suit, the skirt, and supple bags, and applauds the offerings from Dior, Celine and Chanel.

FashionNetwork.com: Which creative director debuts or new creative directions stood out as the most successful this season?

Jennifer Cuvillier: We’ve had an incredible season, with many changes of creative director and therefore new artistic directions for numerous brands, including very strong and distinctive offerings from Jonathan Anderson for Christian Dior, Michael Rider for Celine, and Matthieu Blazy for Chanel, which herald a vibrant new creative momentum for these Parisian houses!

FNW: For these successful launches, which pieces have immediate commercial potential?

JC: Overall, these new directions were expressed through highly image-led looks, but not exclusively: very commercial silhouettes with a genuinely fresh creative proposition were also presented on the catwalk. In keeping with each brand’s creative identity, co-ordinated ensembles were prominent this season- new trouser suits, jacket-and-blouse sets, and skirts in total matching looks- readily translatable commercially. The skirt, in particular- pencil, mini, pleated- was a standout this season; a wardrobe must-have.

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Within this renewed approach to the silhouette, the jacket also takes centre stage, notably with oversized shoulders that impart a new attitude, an essential piece for SS26.

Denim remained strongly present, with readily imaginable commercial iterations for these signature brands.

As for accessories, supple bags- from clutches to travel styles- bring a distinctly new attitude, particularly with the suede finishes that are so evident this season.

For high summer, new designer sandals and flip-flops offered a fresh proposition shown directly on the catwalks, and they can be readily translated into a strong commercial offer.

FNW: In the current context of major changes for the industry, what is your general feeling on the creativity and commercial direction of this season?

JC: This season, brands truly combined highly creative, image-led proposals aligned with their DNA with a commercial vision that is just as creative, notably through assortments widely presented in showrooms.

FNW: What are the major trends that emerged from Fashion Month as a whole, and which will structure your buying strategy?

JC: Loud luxury is among the season’s strongest trends, with a reworked silhouette that emphasises the shoulders, waist, and hips, reimagining feminine attitude- an exploration of volume that extends to XXL proportions. This comes in classic colour palettes, but also with strong primary hues in monochrome or striking colour blocking, across ready-to-wear and accessories, with assertive motifs such as florals, bold stripes, and polka dots.

The beachside silhouette was also extensively developed, channelling an elegant, all-day high-summer spirit, and a new, ultra-feminine swimwear silhouette that encompasses long, airy dresses, ruffles, beautifully pared-back shirts, new harem trousers, and crochet pieces.

FNW: What were the three moments that stood out most for you, and why?

JC: Beyond the new artistic directions, the immersive presentations from Dries Van Noten, Zimmermann, and Etro were all impactful, notably in conveying a resolutely joyful fashion that takes us on a journey, transporting us into their summery, feel-good worlds.

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Equally impactful, albeit in a different format, was Loro Piana’s presentation in a newly reopened art gallery in Milan- a visual conversation between the elegance of the brand’s modern silhouettes, foregrounding the depth of materials, and the gallery’s masterpieces.

FNW: Beyond the garment, which catwalk universe or activation was the most impactful and could be translated into a strong in-store expression?

JC: From New York, London, Milan, and Paris, numerous runway installations and presentations have greatly inspired us and align with our 2026 programme. This gives us the opportunity to imagine exclusive collaborations and unique partnerships to create powerful creative moments to be discovered in store at Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine: Work in progress!

FNW: Among the independent brands and young designers, which proposals stood out for their ability to marry creative audacity and market potential?

JC: Among very different propositions, CFCL, a Japanese designer, offers highly singular, ultra-modern fashion with a very recognisable silhouette and remarkable technical know-how, and is B Corp-certified, with a strong commercial assortment.

In a different vein, Ganni presented an immersive show to reveal its creative vision for the season, with clear stylistic choices and obvious commercial appeal.

Blazé Milano also staged a bold presentation in an Italian palazzo, showcasing its chic, modern wardrobe and delivering a distinctive proposition.

FNW: What materials, textures and colour palettes will most energise the offer and create desire among customers?

JC: Summer suedes, leather, denim, and summer-weight silks and cottons, either ultra-fluid or strongly structured, will define the season, along with braiding, particularly leather braiding that verges on canework. Beyond classic black and white, expect monochromes in vivid colours, as well as luminous pastels and a palette of sun-drenched shades.

FNW: In accessories, do you see a strong trend emerging?

JC: Beyond the bags and shoes we’re accustomed to seeing on the catwalk, new categories- such as the belt- were very strong this season, bringing a distinctly new attitude, worn simply or in multiples.

Jewellery, a category that had disappeared from the catwalks, returned in force this season, complementing the silhouette with strong, assertive pieces.

Flip-flops and jellies (plastic shoes) also made their appearance on the catwalks, bringing a new creative dimension to the product and to the overall silhouette.