Phoebe Philo has beefed up its design team by hiring Bruno Sialelli. The label by the iconic British designer, who had long been in charge of style at LVMH-owned Céline, launched online in October 2023 and seems to be progressing well, having recently tapped Sialelli, Lanvin’s former creative director, as head of design for its ready-to-wear collections.
“I am pleased to announce that I am now head of design ready-to-wear at Phoebe Philo,” Sialelli announced in a rather understated way on social media. The French designer graduated from the Studio Berçot in 2010, and has so far had a strong career with various luxury labels, between menswear and women’s ready-to-wear.
Prior to being appointed creative director of Lanvin in 2019, a post he held until April 2023, Sialelli was head of menswear design at Loewe, where he worked with Jonathan Anderson. He had previously worked at Paco Rabanne, Acne Studios and Balenciaga, mostly in womenswear.
After a nearly six-year absence, Philo made a much-publicised come-back in late 2023, commercialising her own label initially only online, then via some of the world’s top fashion retailers, each time to great acclaim. She kickstarted her label’s project in September 2020, setting it up together with her husband, real-estate entrepreneur Maximilian Wigram. LVMH has bought a stake of just under 30% in Phoebe Philo.
Liberated Brands, which until recently operated skateboard and surfing-inspired retail brands including Quiksilver, Billabong and Volcom, has filed bankruptcy as more customers choose “fast fashion” competitors.
Liberated sought court protection in Delaware Sunday, saying it intends to close its stores as part of a wind-down of its North American operations. The company, which had operated the brands under a deal with brand licenser Authentic Brands Group LLC, said it will also seek to sell its international businesses and has closed its corporate offices and laid off nearly 1,400 employees.
The bankruptcy filing caps a rapid rise and sudden fall of a business that was founded in 2019 after Volcom’s management team sold that brand to Authentic, which has acquired several several retail brands through Chapter 11. Liberated listed more than $100 million in liabilities on its Chapter 11 petition and has lined up a $35 million loan to fund the bankruptcy.
Liberated’s revenue increased from $350 million in 2021 to $422 million in 2022, a jump the company attributed to a sharp increase in demand during the Covid-19 pandemic and acquisition of more brand licenses. About half of the company’s income came through retail sales on brand websites and physical stores and selling apparel wholesale to other retailers, according to court documents.
The business expanded in 2023 when Liberated started running several more Authentic-acquired apparel brands, including Billabong, Quiksilver, Roxy, and RVCA. But Liberated CEO Todd Hymel said in a court filing that the company’s fortunes changed as the effects of the pandemic abated and interest rates began to rise, resulting in lower demand for its offerings.
Company management believed the trend would diminish last year but in the past 18 months “the average consumer has shifted their spending away from discretionary products such as those offered by Liberated,” Hymel said. The business was also hurt by a shift to large “fast-fashion” retailers that can sell garments at lower prices and capitalize on so-called micro-trends as opposed to the traditional seasonal retail model, he said.
“Consumers can cheaply, quickly, and easily order low-quality clothing garments from fast fashion powerhouses and have such goods delivered within days,” he said.
Authentic in December terminated Liberated’s North America license for the wholesale businesses of Volcom, RVCA and Billabong after the company failed to make a royalty payment, according to court documents. The license rights to those brands were subsequently transitioned to new operators, Hymel said.
The case is Liberated Brands LLC, number 25-10168, in the US Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware.
UK fashion will have a new label this spring with the debut of Akyn. And the creative force behind it? Amy Powney, who’s best known as creative director of Mother of Pearl.
Powney, who’s also well know for her sustainability commitment, has stepped down from Mother of Pearl to launch Akyn this May. Her former label has now closed and anyone who looks for it online is taken straight to the Akyn website that says “coming soon”.
We don’t know much about Akyn style-wise, apart from that it will be “crafting elevated, contemporary womenswear”.
It’s a big move as she’d been at Mother of Pearl for 19 years. But her new label looks set to continue the work she started when she converted Mother of Pearl into one of UK fashion’s most eco-focused brands.
Powney said Akyn will be “purpose-driven” and “grounded in elevated design and sustainability”. She added that wants to use her “voice and expertise on a wider scale, creating deeper impact and striving for continued and meaningful change within the industry”.
Mother of Pearl was founded by Maia Norman in 2002 and after joining in 2006 and working her way up in the business, Powney became both its creative chief and its minority co-owner, helping to edge it away from its original print-focused positioning and artist collabs to its more minimalist style and high-profile eco strategy.
Her work in this direction was the focus of the Fashion Reimagined documentary in 2023 that followed her push to make the label more sustainable.
“As creative director and partner of Akyn, Amy will be able to use her voice and expertise on a wider scale, creating deeper impact and striving for continued and meaningful change within the industry,” a statement released to announce the forthcoming launch said.
Strategic delivery consultancy Newton, which works with a wide range of retailers, has appointed Wil Schoenmakers senior partner, becoming global head of Retail and Consumer Goods.
His hiring “complements… and expedites the expansion and growth of the company globally, positioning the business to capitalise on its competitive advantage when it comes to increasing its presence and offering across broader Europe and North America within the retail and consumer sector”.
Schoenmakers will be responsible for “expanding and evolving” the impact and value that Newton is able to offer clients in Europe and beyond, “helping them solve their most complex challenges”.
He joins with “an extensive understanding of the challenges the sector faces, and experience in building solutions that address them”. He has led a large number of strategically significant projects for clients over many years”.
That’s via a 30-year track record in the global consumer sector, from Procter & Gamble as PA Consulting as a Partner and Global Head for Consumer, Retail and Manufacturing to leading Korn Ferry’s global consulting business for consumer, specialising in organisation and cultural transformation.
Newton MD Steve Phillips said:“His track record within the sector is exemplary and he is committed to spending significant time with clients on the ground to support their strategic delivery and ambitions.”
Schoenmakers added:“Newton already has a huge impact in the consumer goods and retail sector, with a potent mix of a strong culture, bright minds, deep sector insights, a true collaborative spirit and real impact offering huge potential globally.
“We are on an exciting journey to be able to deliver even more impact to current and future clients as true global strategic delivery partners.”