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Bright week for UK retail as footfall rebounds

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​The sun shone on UK retail in the first week of the new month (1-8 March) with footfall rebounding, rising 1.8% week-on-week across the country.

Image: Pexels

The positive performance was driven by a 4.2% rebound in high street activity and by a more modest 0.1% rise in retail parks, according to MRI Software data. 

However, shopping centres saw a 1.6% decline in footfall, “reflecting cautious consumer behaviour ahead of Mother’s Day [30 March] and Easter [18-20 April], which fall two weeks later this year than in 2024. This suggest shoppers may be planning purchases more intentionally”, the report said. Of course, it could also have been connected to the sunny weather with consumers less willing to shop undervcover and preferring outdoor destinations.

MRI said the rise in high street activity “is encouraging as it may well align with factors such as warmer weather, and schools reopening following the half-term break across the UK which will also signal a return to the office”.

Footfall rose on four out of seven days last week peaking on Sunday and Wednesday (rising by 18% and 8.3%, respectively) in all UK retail destinations. However, the drop in activity came on Friday “which was far more significant in shopping centres”. 

High streets benefitted from the warmer weather on Saturday with a rise in footfall recorded, however retail parks and shopping centres saw a drop in activity on this day compared to the week before.

All town types benefitted from milder weather with footfall rising from the week before, especially in coastal towns and Greater London where double-digit rises were recorded from the week before. 

Market and historic towns also witnessed strong activity, alongside MRI Software’s Central London Back to Office benchmark. 

Apart from the West Midlands, regional footfall in all UK retail destinations remained strong particularly in the East of England and the South West.

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Sabyasachi, India’s designer to stars, says big weddings are out of style

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By

Bloomberg

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March 10, 2025

India’s most famous bridalwear designer is calling an end to the industry he helped supersize.

Sabyasachi

Sales of elaborate bridal outfits — typically weighing up to 17 pounds and costing more than $6,800 — are declining, according to Sabyasachi Mukherjee, who has dressed some of India’s most famous women, including billionaire heiress Isha Ambani. Modern brides are now looking for more low-key designs as part of a broader shift away from traditionally ostentatious wedding celebrations, he said. 

“The wedding industry in India as we know of it today is breathing its last,” Mukherjee said in an interview at his 25,000-square-foot (2,323 square meter) store in Mumbai. 

Sustained economic growth is transforming India’s consumer landscape and its increasingly affluent population has made the country one of the fastest-growing luxury markets in the world. 

At the top end, the number of people with a net worth of more than $30 million is expected to grow 50% between 2023 and 2028, according to McKinsey & Co. But aspirational customers are set to balloon too, hitting 100 million by 2027, the consulting firm estimates.

That presents immense opportunity, and Mukherjee said there’s been an increase in purchases of “entry-level” saris. But it’s also made carving out market share “survival of the fittest,” he said. His company is set to earn about $60 million in revenue this year, he estimates.

Mukherjee says his current focus is on adding stores in India, before any significant global expansion, and launching additional product lines. 

That includes boosting his offerings of jewelry, which already account for about a quarter of revenue and will soon surpass his label’s apparel sales, to include smaller ornaments at competitive prices. Perfume and beauty products are set to launch within a year and Mukherjee said he wants to leverage his wallpaper and furnishings line into designing homes and hotels.

“I’ve never considered Sabyasachi to be a fashion brand, it’s a lifestyle brand,” he said. Some of his expansion plans will rely on collaborations, he said. So far, he’s worked with Hennes & Mauritz AB and Starbucks Corp., as well as Bergdorf Goodman.

The growth of India’s premium sector is attracting some of the country’s wealthiest tycoons. Mukesh Ambani’s Reliance Brands Ltd. has invested in MM Styles Ltd., which owns the eponymous fashion house run by Bollywood stylist Manish Malhotra. The conglomerate has also taken a 52% stake in the label of Ritu Kumar, another Indian designer.

Kumar Mangalam Birla has also added a luxury presence. That includes a 51% stake in Mukherjee’s Sabyasachi brand bought in 2021.

That backing is core to Mukherjee’s ambitions to build a homegrown luxury brand that can compete with European and American labels. “Soon, India will be the biggest and I want to ride that wave,” he said.
 



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Celio expands Be Camaïeu with its first dual-brand store in Spain

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Translated by

Roberta HERRERA

Published



March 10, 2025

Located just beyond the French border, Celio has strategically chosen Spain as the first international outpost for Be Camaïeu, the womenswear line it unveiled last year through a network of shared stores across France. This cross-border venture materialized just days ago within the La Jonquera shopping center, approximately 30 kilometers from Perpignan.

The joint Celio x Be Camaïeu store in La Jonquera officially opened its doors on March 1, 2025 – DR

Already present in this retail hub, Celio capitalized on an opportunity to relocate within the complex, quadrupling its footprint from 200 to nearly 800 square meters—now its largest store in Spain. The expansive space accommodates both collections, with menswear comprising 60% of the floor area and Be Camaïeu housed within a sleek, light-filled environment. A flexible store layout allows for seamless adjustments to product presentation, ensuring adaptability to shifting retail trends.

“We were presented with the chance to expand within this center following a newly developed extension. Introducing a bi-store format was an obvious decision, given that our La Jonquera location consistently ranks among our top five stores in Spain in terms of sales, with 70% of its clientele being French and already well-acquainted with both brands,” explained David Teboul, Celio’s chief operating officer. Just one week in, he described the initial results as “highly promising.”

Offering a unified shopping experience for both men and women is a strategic move in Spain, a market where Inditex (Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius) has mastered the art of curating diverse product categories—menswear, womenswear, and childrenswear—within a single retail space. “Our distinction lies in our approach: while Inditex is driven by fast-moving fashion trends, we focus on high-quality wardrobe essentials,” he added.

The dedicated Be Camaïeu space within the store, designed to showcase its womenswear collection
The dedicated Be Camaïeu space within the store, designed to showcase its womenswear collection – DR

Celio, which once operated a broader network of stores in Spain before refining its retail strategy, now runs 27 locations with a workforce of over 150 employees. More store openings and reopenings are scheduled in the coming months, though no further bi-stores are planned at this stage. “The La Jonquera location is a test case. Our priority in Spain is to strengthen Celio’s foothold in the menswear market through store modernizations and expansions, rather than rolling out additional mixed-format locations,” Teboul clarified. “We are not chasing store openings; our goal is to enhance the impact of our existing stores, maximizing revenue per square meter.”

Expansion targets: Madrid and Barcelona 

A new 450-square-meter store is set to open soon in Barcelona’s Splau shopping center, located south of the city. Meanwhile, Celio marked its return to Madrid in late December 2024 with a new store in La Gavia. Several additional locations in the capital are currently in the pipeline, further cementing the brand’s presence in Spain.

Beyond Spain, Celio entered the Portuguese market at the end of 2024 with a flagship store in Porto, and a Lisbon boutique is slated to open by late March. The brand is also preparing to expand into Greece and Poland this year while intensifying its presence in the Middle East—one of its key international growth regions.

DR

Be Camaïeu gains traction in France 

In France, Celio introduced its bi-store concept in August 2024 with a dozen new openings and store transformations. Since then, six additional locations have been added, bringing the total to 19.

“At least 10 more bi-stores will open in France in 2025,” announced Teboul, emphasizing that most will result from the conversion of existing locations. By early 2026, the shared-store concept will be introduced to Celio’s franchise partners for global expansion.

The revival of Camaïeu—a cornerstone of French womenswear in the ‘90s and 2000s—was a bold strategic move by Celio’s owners, the Grosman brothers, following the brand’s liquidation. In December 2022, they acquired the Camaïeu trademark at auction for €1.8 million. Under the creative direction of Mikaella Abittan, the revamped Be Camaïeu collection embraces vibrant wardrobe essentials, positioned firmly within the mid-market segment.

Celio, which recently unveiled a striking campaign featuring Jean-Claude Van Damme, currently operates a total of 600 stores, including 370 in France. While the company no longer discloses its financials, it confirms a “strong upward trajectory” in 2024 compared to the previous year.

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Chiara Ferragni’s company Fenice srl posts €10 million losses in two years

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By

Ansa

Translated by

Nicola Mira

Published



March 10, 2025

The Fenice srl company, part-owned by Italian fashion influencer and businesswoman Chiara Ferragni, is said to have recorded cumulated losses for €10 million in fiscal 2023 and 2024. The news was reported by Italian daily Corriere della Sera, ahead of the AGM which will approve the financial results and the recapitalisation of the company controlling the Chiara Ferragni brands.

Chiara Ferragni

According to Corriere della Sera, the juncture is a complex one for Ferragni, whose personal brand has foundered over allegedly misleading charity claims in 2023, linked to sales of a sponsored Christmas cake and Easter eggs. In 2023, Fenice srl reportedly generated a revenue of €11-€12 million, but it then plummeted to €2 million in 2024.

Ferragni has a 32.5% stake in Fenice, while entrepreneur Paolo Barletta has a 40% stake and Pasquale Morgese holds the remaining 27.5%. The company is currently managed by Claudio Calabi, after Barletta and Ferragni resigned last November.

Corriere della Sera wrote that the crucial issue is whether the company will be able to continue trading. This may be possible according to some of the documents that will be brought to the AGM, but one of the shareholders is said to be unconvinced, given the difficulties Ferragni is having in salvaging her reputation, still Fenice’s key asset.

Copyright © 2025 ANSA. All rights reserved.



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