Large-format stores could be hit the hardest if the UK government moves them into higher business rates tax band. And this could result in a wave of closures, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC).
Primark
New analysis by the BRC shows that 400 large-format stores out of 4,000 in the UK are at risk of closure if they’re included in the government’s new business rates surtax on premises with a rateable value over £500,000.
The threat has prompted Primark, one of the UK’s biggest large-format store retailers, to also warn the government that proposed business rates changes are “mistaken” and heap pressure on big stores on UK high streets.
George Weston, the boss of Primark parent Associated British Foods, told the PA news agency: “Increases to labour and packaging have already had an impact and it is important not to make it harder for businesses looking to invest and create jobs. My message to Government is that that should not increase taxes on businesses any more.”
The BRC said large-format stores are already pressured by soaring employment costs, high taxes, and rising rates bills, “which is why 1,000 such stores have closed over the last five years”.
It said: “The retail industry accounts for 5% of the economy yet pays over 20% of all business rates bills. This load is keenly felt by large stores (those with a rateable value of over £500,000), which pay around a third of retail’s total business rates bill. Given the small profit margins that exist across retail (around 2-4% for food), a significant rise in rates for large stores would force these shops to raise their prices, employ fewer people, or even close their doors entirely”.
The BRC anticipates that if all 400 at-risk stores were to close, up to 100,000 jobs could be lost and local councils’ business rates receipts from retail would fall by well over £100 million a year.
It added: “The Government knows high streets are in trouble, which is why it is introducing a new permanent reduction in business rates for retail, hospitality and leisure (RHL) premises. This will replace some of the previous reliefs available to RHL premises, and will be funded by the new, higher business rates tax band on large properties”.
Instead, the body’s calling on the Chancellor to use the Autumn Budget “to deliver this vital change without simply shifting the cost onto larger stores – which would be massively damaging to our high streets”.
It says this can be done without cost to the public purse, “by removing those stores from the new higher business rates tax band and slightly increasing the rates to be paid by the remaining large properties like office blocks and other big commercial buildings, where business rates are a much smaller share of costs and the knock-on impact on jobs and prices is far lower”.
BRC CEO Helen Dickinson added:“Britain’s largest shops are magnets, pulling people into high streets, shopping centres and retail parks, supporting thousands of surrounding cafes, restaurants and smaller and independent shops. After years of rising costs, far too many stores have disappeared – leaving behind empty shells that once thrived at the heart of our communities. Four hundred more large stores could disappear if the Government forces them into its new higher tax band. This would mean less revenue for the Exchequer.
British premium brand Represent has unveiled its 22-piece ‘engLAnd’ ready-to-wear collection, which, as the title suggests, builds on the brand’s British heritage and its move into Los Angeles.
Represent
The launch also follows the “instant sell-out headwear capsule” earlier this year in collaboration with ’47 and therefore features the same handwritten script with typography “merging both a script and an old English style to create the now instantly recognisable engLAnd graphic”.
After being teased on Instagram by Represent founders George and Mike Heaton months ahead of the initial baseball cap launch, the capsule “became the most successful, fastest sell-through of the year”, they said.
So to meet the demand, Represent’s widening the engLAnd product offering with a curated selection of menswear and womenswear jersey apparel, footwear and accessories, “featuring the brand’s signature hand-distressed finish to give it an ‘LA vintage’-inspired look.
The range includes oversized hoodies, short- and long-sleeve T-shirts and joggers, while womenswear features cropped sweatshirts and baby tees, available in black, washed brown and flat white colourways.
The collection also sees the reappearance of the brand’s Realtree print, now in a washed white finish, featured on the long sleeve T-shirt, sweatshirt, baby tee and sweat pant silhouettes.
Accessories, of course, include the baseball cap, updated for Autumn/Winter in a monochromatic washed brown colourway, as well as a new beanie. The signature Represent HTN sneaker also receives a winter update, launching in premium black and brown Hairy Pony styles.
George Heaton added: “We knew the engLAnd design could be taken further since we first showed a piece of the headwear over a year ago, the progression came from a strong consumer response. This collection is really all about our brand DNA, it’s our heritage and inspiration, it’s our move to Los Angeles, that’s what it represents.”
The engLAnd AW25 collection launches on representclo.com, its flagship store in London, and stores in Manchester & Los Angeles.
Bringing together 19 Italian manufacturers serving luxury brands, HModa now intends to create a transalpine network of experienced suppliers, into which it plans to invest “tens of millions of euros” in France. With this in mind, the HModa 126 site was inaugurated in Aubervilliers on December 10.
The HModa 126 showroom – MGFNW
Located at 126 rue des Fillettes in Aubervilliers, this 1,500-square-metre site was inaugurated in the presence of the town’s mayor and the President of the Seine-Saint-Denis departmental council. Previously operated by Nike Inc., which used it as a showroom, the site is a warehouse dating from 1880 that has been given a new lease of life to welcome its new occupant.
HModa has established itself in an area where Chanel, Hermès, Berluti, and Moynat have already set up operations. The industrial hub offers an on-site prototyping workshop, a training centre, and a research and archives centre designed to inspire visitors.
Visitors are also greeted by an imposing showroom spotlighting the creations and expertise of the industrial hub, with a wealth of shoes, coats, and dresses exploring combinations of materials.
Claudio Rovere, surrounded by Karine Franklet (Mayor of Aubervilliers), Guillaume Moukala (Cabinet Asterès) and Stéphane Troussel (President of the Seine-Saint-Denis departmental council) – MG/FNW
“We bring together companies producing ready-to-wear, footwear, leather goods, and textiles. So everything a designer or brand could want for their collection is here,” sums up president and founder Claudio Rovere. “We won’t be a brand, but we’ll always be at their service. And there is a natural complementarity between France, the world capital of creativity and luxury, and Italy, one of the most important manufacturing nations in the world.”
HModa’s aim is therefore to create, this time in France, a network of textile companies meeting the market’s various needs. The goal is to attract orders from major luxury houses which, although they have brought much of their production in-house, still prize the flexibility and responsiveness provided by an external partner, according to Claudio Rovere.
The prototyping workshop – MG/FNW
“We’re not going to limit ourselves to working with major brands or to imposing quantities; we also want to work with organisations and designers keen to push the boundaries of craftsmanship,” the executive further explains to FashionNetwork.com. “This helps support the development of tomorrow’s big names, and it is always beneficial for a manufacturer to take on new challenges in terms of creativity and innovation.”
Since May, HModa’s French operations have been led by Gilles Lasbordes, a well-known figure in both the French and Italian textile industries, having headed the Première Vision trade shows for a decade. For now, he is supported at 126 by a team of 10, which will gradually grow to around 30 as the company ramps up.
The prototyping workshop – MG/FNW
Founded in 2008, HModa’s 19 manufacturers account for around 2,300 craftspeople. Their combined turnover is expected to exceed €300 million in 2025. The industrial hub’s latest move was the acquisition, in July, of a 60% stake in Manrico S.p.A., an Italian specialist in luxury cashmere.
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Lenzing AG will have to move forward without Rohit Aggarwal, who only assumed the role of CEO in summer 2024 following Suzano’s entry as a shareholder at the Austrian fibre producer. Aggarwal has informed the Supervisory Board that he is stepping down from his position for personal reasons with effect from January 31. However, to ensure a seamless transition, he intends to support Lenzing as an adviser until the end of September 2026.
Rohit Aggarwal will step down as CEO at the end of January. – Lenzing
Following Aggarwal’s departure, Lenzing AG will initially be led by a three-member Management Board. As part of the company’s ongoing organisational development and to underpin its recently sharpened premiumisation strategy, Lenzing AG is establishing a new six-member Executive Committee.
The Executive Committee will comprise the three-member Lenzing AG Management Board and will be complemented by the company’s senior commercial managers Patricia Sargeant (Nonwovens), Yann Lepage (Textile Fibres), and Anton Putz (Pulp).
By introducing the new Executive Committee, Lenzing AG aims to strengthen its strategic focus on business opportunities in the premium fibre segment. The goal is to expand its position as a leading integrated premium provider of regenerated cellulose fibres.
The Supervisory Board has already initiated the process to appoint a successor to the CEO and will announce a new appointment in due course.
“Increasing structural profitability remains a key objective. The Management Board will continue to focus resolutely on strengthening the company’s competitive position, financial performance and sustainable value creation – with the aim of further consolidating Lenzing’s position as the global market leader in sustainable cellulose fibres,” said Supervisory Board chairman Patrick Lackenbucher.
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