The opening of a mono-brand boutique in London is approaching for Boglioli, the iconic Italian menswear luxury brand, renowned above all for having made history with the unstructured jacket and making informal elegance its hallmark. “This is a store of just under 100 square metres on New Bond Street, with no fewer than five display windows and a corner site, hence dual frontage, which will afford us exceptional visibility and will sit alongside our boutiques in Milan and New York,” Francesco Russo, CEO of Boglioli- a brand that now offers a complete head-to-toe look for the contemporary man- tells FashionNetwork.com.

“We began with the unstructured jacket- often treated and garment-dyed- using exceptional, carefully sourced raw materials, or fabrics created exclusively for us, to achieve distinctive effects in both colour and handle,” says Francesco Russo. “Of course, an unstructured garment must still take on the shape of a jacket. And that is Boglioli’s savoir-faire. In my view, the world is full of unstructured jackets today; however, when it comes to soft tailoring, I consider the Boglioli jacket unrivalled. Building on this expertise, our day-to-day goal has been to develop a brand lifestyle over time through the creation of a complete wardrobe to dress the modern man.”

Today the Brescia-based company (its historic headquarters are in Gambara) offers trousers, shirts, knitwear, and coats, using materials of consistently the highest quality and silhouettes that are elegant, “but at the same time comfortable- so comfortable you forget you’re wearing them,” Russo notes. “What best encapsulates all these elements? The DNA of the first Boglioli jacket. If we can deliver that comfort to our customers, then we’ve hit the jackpot.”

The shop-in-shop strategy introduced a few years ago by the Brescia-based company around the world “is working extremely well,” says the CEO. “This format helps to keep the overall wholesale distribution strategy- now somewhat under pressure- vibrant. It’s a way, in the multi-brand arena, to cut through the jungle, the bazaar of similar propositions, because with a 5-10 square metre footprint, fully branded, you can send people a much clearer message. We have implemented shop-in-shops extensively in recent months,” Russo continues, “for example in Istanbul we did it with Beymen, in Düsseldorf and Cologne with Breuninger, in Zurich and Basel with Globus. In all these cases, Boglioli’s brand visibility and sales have surged. In March we will open another in Munich, at Lodenfrey, one of Germany’s leading menswear stores.”

This will be an additional space to the one the menswear brand has long maintained in the German store: a Boglioli pop-up that will be open for three weeks, “which will convey a targeted stylistic message for that market,” according to Russo.

Following the family’s exit and several changes of ownership, Boglioli is now majority-controlled by a Spanish investor, who took over in 2022 from another Spanish fund. A minority stake is owned by CEO Francesco Russo himself, who is modestly satisfied with turnover. “After reaching our all-time high of €19.5 million in turnover in 2024, last year we saw a slight single-digit decline, as we were affected by the slowdown in wholesale, but in 2026 we started well in the first two months of the sales campaign. If we add the London opening, which will definitely give the business a boost, I think we could reach our new record,” he says.

The brand’s largest market- having debuted in India in 2025- is the United States, followed by Italy, which generates 30% of sales. E-commerce has been growing steadily for the past few years, to the point that Russo speaks of record sales in this channel in 2025, at over €1.5 million. Until now it has been managed through an external partner, but from next March Boglioli has invested to bring it in-house, thereby increasing margins. “Above all, this strategy frees up resources for us to invest in content and marketing, which will then drive e-commerce growth further. So less investment in the platform, and more in content, in the message, in broadening the user base,” explains the Boglioli executive, who was impacted only initially by US tariffs.

“The negative impact was felt in April and May 2025, after Liberation Day on April 3, 2025,” says Russo. “From that moment, until the President of the United States said exactly what he wanted to do, people kept their money in their pockets, and we recorded two months of declining sales, particularly in our New York mono-brand boutique. Then, once Trump negotiated and clarified which tariffs he wanted to impose on our sector (ultimately very similar to those already in place), business returned to normal.”

For Boglioli’s CEO, the signing of the agreement to protect European excellences and, above all, to progressively eliminate duties on 91% of EU goods (including clothing and footwear), just concluded between the European Union and the Latin American Mercosur bloc, is therefore important. “It could certainly represent an excellent opportunity for us, because countries like Brazil, Chile, or Argentina- or Mexico, where we are already present but with very small distribution- are all penalised by punitive tariffs. Removing them opens up interesting developments for our brand, particularly in summer, but not only,” he confirms.

With its 155 employees in Italy, plus four in the New York store and a further four arriving in London, Boglioli presented four chapters of its Autumn-Winter 2026/27 collection in Milan: Back to Milano, Lunch in Galleria, Autumn in Brera and Bagai Club, in which the city becomes a direct source of inspiration. From the deep blues and greys of the business sphere, to shades of beige, to sage with luminous nuances; moving through the tones typical of the autumn foliage of literary Brera- where Boglioli’s signature green takes centre stage- to the warm hues of leather and camel, and the more exclusive colours of the Bagai Club proposals, where cocoa and mauve define a new idea of quiet luxury. The materials, also integral to the narrative, alternate between reinvented archival fabrics, ultra-fine wools, super-light flannels, regenerated cashmere, and treated corduroy.

Among the core jacket offerings, standouts include the Manin, a double-breasted model with a modern cut; the Treves, inspired by travel-ready safari jackets; and the Galleria, a fluid reinterpretation of the historic Gassmann: all designed for an international man who demands functionality, lightness, and versatility. Alongside these, the new technical over-jackets expand the concept of outerwear, integrating water-repellent treatments, lightweight padding, and functional details. All crafted by the in-house design studio led by Marco Re.