Pan-European consumer organization BEUC filed a complaint with the European Commission Thursday against online fast-fashion retailer Shein for using “dark patterns,” tactics designed to make people buy more on its app and website.
Gamification, pop-ups and pressure: Shein’s sales model under fire in Europe – Reuters
Pop-ups urging customers not to leave the app or risk losing promotions, countdown timers that create time pressure to complete a purchase, and the infinite scroll on its app are among the methods Shein uses that could be considered “aggressive commercial practices,” BEUC said in a report also published Thursday.
BEUC also detailed Shein’s use of frequent notifications, with one phone receiving 12 notifications from the app in a single day. “For fast fashion, you need to have volume, you need to have mass consumption, and these dark patterns are designed to stimulate mass consumption,” Agustin Reyna, director general of BEUC, said in an interview.
“For us, to be satisfactory, they need to get rid of these dark patterns, but the question is whether they will have enough incentive to do so, knowing the potential impact it can have on the volume of purchases.”
In a statement, Shein said: “We are already working constructively with national consumer authorities and the European Commission to demonstrate our commitment to complying with EU laws and regulations.” It added that BEUC had not accepted its request for a meeting.
Shein and rival online discount platform Temu have surged in popularity in Europe, partly helped by apps that encourage shoppers to engage with games and stand to win discounts and free products.
BEUC has also previously targeted Temu in a complaint. Shein’s use of gamification, drawing shoppers to use the app regularly, has helped drive its success.
In the “Puppy Keep” game on the app, users feed a virtual dog and collect points to win free items. They can gain more points by scrolling through the app and by ordering items but must log into the game every day or risk losing cumulative rewards.
BEUC noted that dark patterns are widely used by mass-market clothing retailers and called on the consumer protection network to include other retailers in its investigation.
It said 25 of its member organizations in 21 countries, including France, Germany and Spain, joined in the grievance filed with the Commission and with the European consumer protection network.
Late last month, the European Commission notified Shein of practices breaching EU consumer law and warned it would face fines if it failed to address the concerns.
The company is also under scrutiny from EU tech regulators on its compliance with EU online content rules.
John Lewis has announced the appointment of a new chief customer officer with experienced fashion retail exec Anna Braithwaite set to take up the role on 1 October.
Anna Braithwaite – John Lewis
She’ll report to Peter Ruis, MD of John Lewis, and we’re told she “brings a deep expertise in customer and brand strategy”.
Braithwaite will be responsible for leading the John Lewis brand and marketing across all channels, loyalty, customer experience, and creative and content teams, with a remit to ensure “the brand continues to deliver exceptional quality, value and service for its customers”.
She has more than 25 years of brand and marketing experience, most of it immersed in the fashion sector, and actually began her career at John Lewis, joining as a graduate trainee before spending a decade in a variety of marketing roles.
After that she moved to Hobbs and Jacques Vert before joining Tesco, where she was head of brand marketing for F&F Clothes and global brand director for non-food. Most recently, she was M&S’s marketing director for fashion, home and beauty.
Ruis said “her understanding of the John Lewis brand and her laser focus on the needs of customers makes her the ideal person to lead our customer and marketing strategy”.
UK retail property giant Landsec said this week that it’s “reached the next major milestone in its transformation of Gunwharf Quays after breaking ground at Marlborough Square”.
Gunwharf Quays
Its latest round of improvements is designed to boost the visitor experience and reinforce the Portsmouth outlet destination’s appeal among affluent shoppers and international visitors.
The owner/operator of key retail centres including Bluewater, Trinity Leeds and Liverpool One, said Gunwharf Quays remains one of the UK’s best-performing retail outlets.
And having upgraded The Avenues part of the property earlier this year, it expects the new works (which will be complete next spring) to add to its appeal.
It’s enhancing shopfronts and façades, improving landscaping, expanding washrooms, and adding extra seating, all designed to “improve dwell time and enable stronger flagship presentations”.
A new retail unit will also launch “to bring a new brand experience to the centre in time for peak trade over the Golden Quarter” and brands including Crew Clothing and M&S will move into larger units, with M&S expected to continue trading throughout the works.
The new investment follows what it said has been a period of “standout commercial success with a record year for sales and footfall and more than a quarter (28%) of stores on-site breaking performance records in FY24/25,” we’re told.
Tim Treadwell, head of retail portfolio at Landsec, said: “We continue to see strong demand from leading brands looking for premium environments to grow their outlet offerings.”
That’s perhaps unsurprising given the polarisation in UK retail with certain destinations/supermalls outperforming while those with less unique appeal struggle to attract both brands and shoppers.
Gunwharf Quays has a number of built in advantages aside from being run by one of the country’s key retail property specialists. It’s in a historic, waterfront location with a good selection of premium stores (Russell & Bromley is among its latest arrivals), and plenty of leisure activities, including a cinema and bowling.
Interestingly too, earlier this year, Landsec installed 1,287 solar panels throughout Gunwharf Quays, one of the largest arrays of solar across UK shopping centres. These generate more than 500,000 kWh annually and reduce the destination’s carbon emissions by 115 tonnes, the equivalent of planting 5,400 trees.
After two elections, a cancelled ballot, and an interim government leadership in 2024, the Bangladesh Federation of Apparel Manufacturers and Exporters has finally chosen a new president. Mahmud Hasan Khan, head of the manufacturer Rising Group, takes the helm at a tense time for the industry.
Mahmud Hasan Khan – BGMEA
This election marks the end of a complex period for the federation, which has been without an elected president for almost a year. In April 2024, industrialist SM Mannan Kochi was elected president. However, he finally withdrew for medical reasons during the summer, triggering a new election in August which crowned Khandoker Rafiqul Islam.
However, the election was finally annulled and the BGMEA leadership dissolved by government decision in October. Accusations of fraud were reported in the local press, while dialogue seemed to have broken down between the board and members. The Ministry of Commerce appointed Anwar Hossain, then deputy director of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), as interim director before “free and fair” elections.
Hasan Khan’s election comes at a delicate time for the Bangladeshi textile industry. The country is threatened by Washington with an additional 37% customs tax, on top of the 10% already applied to all supplier countries. As reported by FashionNetwork.com, Bangladesh is currently negotiating with the Trump administration to reduce these taxes. In particular, the textile industry hopes to circumvent the protectionist measures by using US-grown cotton in its production.
But there are other challenges in store for this term. The next elections are due to be held in April, which is likely to exacerbate the already highly conflictual social situation in the country. The country is facing rapid inflation, rising interest rates, and a sharp depreciation of the taka against the dollar, the currency in which most exports are traded.
The industry is counting on the completion by 2029 of the country’s first deep-water port, which will eliminate the need for Bangladeshi textile exports to transit through Colombo, in neighboring Sri Lanka, to be loaded onto ships bound for Europe or the United States.
The textile sector generates 80% of the country’s exports and 20% of its GDP, not to mention four million direct jobs. Thanks to its low wages, Bangladesh has become the European Union’s second-largest supplier and the United States’ fourth-largest supplier of textiles and clothing.