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Benetton halves its losses in 2024

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Nicola Mira

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May 9, 2025

The drastic therapy prescribed by CEO Claudio Sforza at Benetton seems to be bearing fruit. In the last decade, the Italian apparel group had accumulated losses for nearly €1.6 billion, and when Sforza joined the group in June 2024 to spearhead its recovery, he announced a radical restructuring plan, which is yielding better-than-expected results. In 2024, Benetton Group generated revenue of €916.9 million, virtually on par with the €1.098 billion recorded the previous year, while the group’s losses were reduced from €235 million in 2023 to €100 million last year.

Benetton’s operations are now entirely concentrated at the Castrette di Villorba site – Benetton Group

Sforza had forecast losses of €110 million in 2024, but Benetton did better than expected, managing to cut losses by more than half. The group’s net financial debt also improved by approximately €50 million, falling from €460 million in 2023 to €411 million last year. Sales have remained stable, despite an extremely tense business environment and the fact that the group has undergone an in-depth reorganisation.

To begin with, Benetton has concentrated all operations at one site, in Castrette di Villorba in Veneto, leaving its prestigious former headquarters at Villa Minelli in Ponzano Veneto. The move generated “significant structural savings” according to Benetton, which also shut down a number of stores, especially those run by external partners, some of which were hit by major solvency issues in the last few years.

Benetton has embarked on an extensive rationalisation and renovation programme of its stores and distribution channels, prioritising the upgrade of its directly operated shops. In 2024, the latter’s sales grew by 7% over the previous year. In parallel, Benetton has invested significantly in online retail, launching a revamp of its e-shop and setting up an e-business division reporting directly to Sforza. The goal is to increase the Benetton e-shop’s current 13% share of the group’s overall revenue to 20%-25% in the next few years.

Benetton has also made a major effort to reorganise its manufacturing operations, reducing internal capacity and resorting to third-party producers. The group’s production sites in Tunisia, Croatia and Serbia have been closed. Benetton currently produces 40% of its assortment in-house, and the rest is supplied by contractors, enabling the group to slash collection development time from 12 to six months. This has allowed the group to reduce fixed working capital, to respond more quickly to emerging market trends, and to develop a product range more in line with consumers’ tastes.

A look by Sisley K, the new Korea-inspired line launched by Sisley
A look by Sisley K, the new Korea-inspired line launched by Sisley – Benetton Group

Following the store and factory closures, the group’s workforce has been downsized. Benetton has not provided details about redundancies, simply stating that the measures introduced “have affected a significant number of the parent company’s employees.” Last December, the group struck a deal with unions to encourage employees to leave.

In terms of products, in April Benetton launched two new collections inspired by South Korea, one of its main markets, where it operates 300 stores for United Colors of Benetton and Sisley, the group’s premium label. The first was BBOLD, a womenswear capsule collection by Benetton with a K-Pop vibe, designed by local designers, and the second was Sisley K, a more sophisticated womenswear line also developed by Korean creatives, inspired by the country’s style.

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Prada CEO Andrea Guerra says uncertainty triggered by tariff war is concerning

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Ansa

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Nicola Mira

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May 14, 2025

“I’m not concerned by tariffs, but by the uncertainty that this [tariff war] has created. It’s clear that we’re heading for less than wonderful times, but we have the conditions for doing well,” said Andrea Guerra, CEO of the Prada group, speaking at the Family Business Forum held in Arezzo, Italy.

Andrea Guerra – Courtesy of Prada

“Of course young people are leaving Italy, the important thing is that they come back eventually, it’s clear that it’s good for them to go. I think the really big opportunity is finding people who have been out [of the country] and bringing them back,” he added.

“We’ve come to a generation that no longer cares whatever someone in America might say. My children have a different perspective, they look to see if someone walks the walk as well as talking the talk. They reason differently, and the world is in their hands, in the hands of the 30-35-year-olds, whatever Mr Trump says,” said Guerra.

“In four to five months we will begin a journey with a label, [Versace], that has been one of the founders of luxury fashion in Italy. We’re talking about an exceptional name that surely has lost some of its shine, but over the course of one to five years we will try to understand how far we can take it again,” added Guerra. “In the luxury sector, patience is not a complementary ingredient, it’s an essential one, as are the calm and tranquillity of starting a fresh journey in the right way,” he concluded.

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12 bids filed for French womenswear chain Jennyfer, including by Beaumanoir, Pimkie and Celio

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May 14, 2025

May 13 was the deadline for potential buyers of French fashion chain Jennyfer to file their bids. Jennyfer, which has 999 employees, was placed in judicial liquidation while continuing to trade on April 30, and FashionNetwork.com has learnt from sources close to the matter that 12 bids for the chain have been put forward, most of them for a partial acquisition. The bids will be officially presented to Jennyfer’s employee representatives at a committee meeting scheduled on May 15. Jennyfer, whose main consumer targets are teenagers and young women, was placed in receivership in 2023. In summer 2024, it was sold to two of its senior executives, Yann Pasco and Jean-Charles Gaume, backed by Shanghai Pure Fashion Garments Co. Ltd., a Chinese manufacturer producing for Jennyfer.

Last year, Jennyfer changed logo and name, dropping the words ‘don’t call me’ – Jennyfer

Jennyfer, which has been allowed to continue trading until May 28, currently runs 130 directly operated stores in France (plus 53 affiliated ones), and approximately 40 outside France. A store fleet that has attracted several potential buyers, including some big names in French retail.

FashionNetwork.com has learnt that Brittany-based group Beaumanoir (owner among others of Cache Cache, Bonobo, La Halle, and Boardriders) would like to buy 26 Jennyfer stores. “The units in question are positioned in strategic locations that would allow the Beaumanoir group to continue to extend the retail footprint of its existing brands,” Beaumanoir told FashionNetwork.com. The group’s bid reportedly means that 160 jobs would be saved. Beaumanoir is also interested in buying the rights to the Jennyfer brand, to have the option of subsequently relaunching it. 

A joint bid has been put forward by fashion retailers Celio and Pimkie, which are said to have agreed to acquire approximately 50 stores, the majority of them for Pimkie, which could still operate them under the Jennyfer name. Over 300 jobs would be involved in this bid. After an organisational overhaul, Pimkie has recently claimed to have found new momentum. Menswear retailer Celio would instead have the opportunity of expanding its fleet of ‘twin stores’ combining the Celio and Be Camaïeu brands, by adding seven new addresses, as Celio told FashionNetwork.com.

Jennyfer

Other bids relate only to Jennyfer’s inventory, notably by inventory clearance specialists like Noz, which in the past acquired the stock of several struggling brands, notably Minelli, Olly Gan, and Esprit. Finally, a few bids relate to a limited number of Jennyfer stores only.

All the bids will be examined by the Bobigny trade court on May 28. Until then, Jennyfer stores will continue to operate, but the brand’s e-shop has been closed.

Jennyfer deployed a recovery plan last year, which included revamping its brand image and broadening the consumer target, but in the last nine months the chain’s owners have failed to make the recovery a reality, penalised by “skyrocketing costs, slumping purchasing power, changes in the apparel market and increasingly aggressive international competition.”

Jennyfer was founded 40 years ago, and in 2023 it filed a redundancy plan that related to 75 positions at headquarters and logistics.

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Red Luxury buys men’s jewellery brand Le Gramme, plans London, NY stores

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May 14, 2025

Red Luxury, the watches-jewellery group founded in Paris in 2012 by Romain Bénichou and David-Emmanuel Cohen, has acquired French men’s jewellery brand Le Gramme. Le Gramme was founded in 2012 by Adrien Messié and Erwan Le Louër, and specialises in silver men’s bracelets named after their weight in grams. Le Gramme went into receivership in October 2023, and was liquidated in December 2024.

A bracelet by Le Gramme – DR

“Le Gramme has all the attributes of a major label: a strong identity, a clear positioning and a loyal clientèle. We will give [Le Gramme] the means to achieve a new dimension,” said Bénichou, president of Red Luxury and now also president of Le Gramme.

The brand’s new owners have drawn up plans to expand its footprint both in France and abroad.

“An ambitious expansion strategy is already under way, and we plan to soon open flagship stores in Paris, London and New York, strengthening the brand’s high-end positioning,” said Red Luxury in a press release, without providing details of the future store’s locations.

To steer Le Gramme on its new course, Red Luxury has named as managing director Mehmet Kartal, former head of fine and costume jewellery and watches at Parisian department store Printemps.

Le Gramme is currently available at 200 stores in 25 countries. In 2020, the brand boosted its retail presence in Paris with concessions at Le Bon Marché, Printemps Haussmann, and Galeries Lafayette Haussmann. Le Gramme has approximately 20 employees, and is chiefly active in France and the USA.

Red Luxury designs, produces and distributes proprietary brands like Ginette NY and licensed ones like Vilebrequin (watches) and Sonia Rykiel. Its latest published results date back to 2022, when it recorded a revenue of €40 million, and set itself the goal of reaching €100 million in 2027.

In July 2023, Red Luxury sold a minority stake to London investment fund Ewo Capital.
 

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