Barbour may be seen by many as the ultimate in heritage classics, but it continues to link up with a variety of ultra-cool names for a series of super-cool collabs, most recently with Erdem.
Its latest is its second collection with Japanese designer Tokito Yoshida’s label To Ki To for SS25, following success with their AW24 drop and after linking up for the very first time 15 years ago.
After one of their earlier collab jackets was adapted for Daniel Craig to wear as James Bond in the 2012 film Skyfall, it’s clear that the two labels had chemistry. And now they’ve launched six signature outerwear pieces, “introducing fresh silhouettes and intuitive designs taking inspiration from archival designs”.
Clothing for this season includes a multi-pocket hoodie and tank knit and the collection features versatile interior and exterior liners that can be styled alongside the jackets or worn independently “offering great layering options”.
What we get this time is the To Ki To x Barbour Wax Driving Jacket that brings together the classic Barbour waxed cotton and signature To Ki To silhouette available in an olive colourway. This piece features front and back pockets, detachable hood and cotton tartan quilted lining, loosely based on the Barbour Riding coat, which was first added to the range in the 1980s.
Also there’s the To Ki To x Barbour Wax Riding Jacket available in a sage green colourway. This longer-length piece features a waxed multi-pocket vest with front button fastening, and a removable inner liner with a buckled belt to the waist.
The collab’s Field Wax Jacket takes inspiration from Barbour’s archival Durham jacket based on Captain Cotton’s military customised jacket introduced in 1987. This new season interpretation has been made from 100% waxed cotton with a leather collar. It’s finished with practical features such as a detachable hood, four utility inspired pockets and a removable inner liner vest.
The pressure on British consumers eased a little in January as a step-up in supermarket promotions meant grocery inflation edged lower following four straight months of rises, industry data showed on Tuesday.
Market researcher Kantar said annual grocery price inflation was 3.3% in the four weeks to Jan. 26, down from 3.7% in last month’s report. Sales rose 4.3% over the period year-on-year.
Kantar said the fall in inflation reflected an increased level of promotions from supermarkets. They rose year-on-year by GBP274 million ($340 million), accounting for 27.2% of sales – the highest level in January since 2021.
The researcher said prices are rising fastest in products such as chocolate confectionery, chilled smoothies and juices, and butters and spreads, and are falling fastest in cooking sauces, household paper products and cat food.
Despite the January fall in food inflation, supermarkets have warned that tax rises in the new Labour government’s first budget in October, together with another hike in the national minimum wage, will be inflationary.
Prominent grocery industry researcher, the Institute of Grocery Distribution has forecast that food inflation could hit nearly 4.9% this year.
Kantar noted that consumers turned to non-branded products to help keep costs down, with own-label as a proportion of total sales hitting a record high of 52.3% in January.
Online supermarket Ocado was Britain’s fastest-growing grocer for the ninth consecutive month, with sales up 11.3% year-on-year over the 12 weeks to Jan. 26.
Market leader Tesco gained the most share, with its 28.5% share some 70 basis points higher year-on-year, on sales up 5.6%. Sales at No. 2 Sainsbury’s rose 4.2%.
Shares in Tesco were up 1%, Sainsbury’s was up 2.1%, while Ocado was up 1.6%. No. 3 Asda remained the laggard, with sales down 5.2% and a 1-percentage-point loss of market share over the year. Last week Asda’s new boss Allan Leighton launched a major round of price cuts in an attempt to kick start a recovery. Kantar noted that Marks & Spencer also performed well, with sales up 10.5%, though the researcher does not include the retailer in its market share data. Shares in M&S were up 2.3%.
Premium British womenswear label Saint + Sofia wants to open a raft of UK stores after finding success with its first location, which opened last autumn in the Seven Dials area of London’s Covent Garden.
Operating in the same niche that has seen Me+Em and Mint Velvet finding success, it’s aiming for 10 new locations, although it won’t be opting for a mad dash for growth. We should see two new sites in London this year and 10 in total over the next two years with Cambridge, Glasgow, somewhere in Surrey, Leeds, other key cities and “neighbourhood” towns, also on the hit list, The Times reported.
For London, that means affluent neighbourhoods such as Marylebone, Richmond, Chelsea and Hampstead Heath that are on so many premium retailers wish lists.
The company told the newspaper that its Monmouth Street store, which opened in November, has “exceeded expectations” for the formerly-online-only label.
Saint + Sofia was founded by Dessislava and Malcolm Bell during the pandemic and has grown fast, selling “fair, sustainable fashion” that’s inspired by the arts and pop culture.
Profitable since launch, they told the newspaper they’re targeting revenue of £40 million for the year to December, up from £25 million the year before.
As mentioned, the company isn’t targeting the kind of ultra-fast growth that could be hard for a still-small business to manage and aims to continue being self-funded with no plans to find external investment.
Isabel Marant has released it SS25 campaign and it stars someone who in many ways has for decades summed up the Marant style — “long-time friend of the house” Kate Moss.
Styled by another influencer who also sums up the Marant look — former Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt — so far, so unsurprising.
Perhaps a little more surprising is the campaign’s male lead, K-pop star Seonghwa of boy band Ateez, with K-pop’s biggest names having more recently been associated with France’s ultra-luxury brands than a ‘boho-chic’ one like Isabel Marant. Yet given the huge impact K-pop stars have made globally, it might be less of a shock that a label as attuned to the mood of the moment as this one has signed him for the campaign.
Moss and Seonghwa were shot in Paris by photographer Robin Galiegue and unlike some campaigns, in this case the two stars (and the clothes, of course) are the main focus with white backgrounds underlining that fact.
The images have a 1990s-meets-2020s feel (as does the inclusion of both Moss and Seonghhwa), in many ways summing up the whole Marant look.
What’s also key is that while Kate Moss has fronted more fashion campaigns than most of us have had hot dinners (although she last modelled for the label back in AW10), this is a first for Seonghwa.
“This campaign is a celebration of time, where a 1990s icon meets a 2020s K-pop star, underscoring Isabel Marant’s ability to bridge cultures and eras, creating a world that speaks to both timeless style and modern youth,” the company said.
It will be interesting to see the impact the campaign makes. Isabel Marant has struggled with sales growth in recent periods and last November, it was rep[orted that for 2024 through September, the company saw a 31% slide in sales to wholesale customers and online retail clients, following a previous drop in orders for its recent collections.
That was according to a results presentation seen by Bloomberg News. Overall the business saw a 17% drop in sales for the year, relative to the same period in 2023.