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As natural resources dwindle, luxury fashion must pursue sustainability says Square Management study

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January 11, 2026

Long defined by rarity, artisanal excellence, and desirability, the luxury sector now faces an unprecedented equation: how can it continue to create value without further increasing pressure on natural and social resources? This is the question addressed by the report “Business models for sustainable luxury,” published by the consultancy Square Management, which offers an in-depth analysis of the transformation of luxury business models through the lens of planetary boundaries.

Repair is one of the pillars of sustainable fashion – Shutterstock

The study’s first finding is that luxury occupies a strategic position in the ecological transition. With global sales of 364 billion euros in 2024 and considerable symbolic weight, it wields significant influence across the creative industries as a whole. Yet this influence plays out against a backdrop of multiple pressures: the growing scarcity of raw materials (gold, leather, cashmere); tighter regulation (the CSRD directive, the AGEC law, the Green Deal); the increasing integration of ESG criteria into financial valuation; evolving consumer expectations; and shifting cultural norms around consumption.

A strategy to be implemented globally

In the face of these shifts, the study shows that marginal adjustments are no longer enough and urges the luxury sector to undertake a profound transformation of its business models. To frame this reconfiguration, the report draws on the circular economy’s “9Rs” framework, which ranks sustainability strategies from the least to the most transformative, from recycling to calling into question overproduction.

The study highlights a wide variety of models already in play. The least ambitious strategies focus on waste-to-energy (Recover) or the recycling of raw materials (Recycle), with examples including Guerlain‘s refillable bottles and Prada‘s Re-Nylon line. More structurally significant are upcycling approaches (Repurpose, Remanufacture, Refurbish), which turn unsold items and dormant stock into creations with high symbolic value: Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Coach, and Jeanne Friot exemplify this blend of circularity, creativity, and storytelling.

Reducing production and buying less: two key ideas for sustainability

Repair is a crucial lever. By extending product lifespans, it avoids the most emissions-intensive stages of the life cycle. Maisons such as Hermès, Chanel, and Cartier have made it a pillar of their client relationships, while platforms such as Tilli are helping to structure this practice at scale. Re-use and rental are also fast-growing markets, driven by younger generations: 65% of luxury consumers say they are interested in buying second-hand, according to the “True-Luxury Global Consumer Insights” report (BCG-Altagamma, 2023), a figure that is rising steadily.

When it comes to sustainability, the luxury industry must embrace its leadership role by fundamentally transforming the way it operates.
When it comes to sustainability, the luxury industry must embrace its leadership role by fundamentally transforming the way it operates. – Shutterstock

The most transformative models are those aimed at reducing production itself, namely Reduce, Refuse (superfluous purchases), and Rethink. On-demand manufacturing, pre-orders or limited production, as practised by Gabriela Hearst or MaisonCléo, help limit unsold stock while reinforcing exclusivity. Some houses go further still, committing to regenerative models: Kering invests in regenerative agriculture, while Chloé embeds social and environmental impact at the heart of every product as a mission-driven company. However, the report emphasises that these transformations face major obstacles.

The limits of the “do less harm” philosophy

Internally, many obstacles are cited to the introduction of circular models: complex logistics, high costs, cognitive resistance, and a cultural attachment to ownership. To overcome these, the study’s authors identify several key factors, including enhanced traceability (notably via blockchain), co-opetition between players to pool costs and, above all, the ability to reframe sustainable luxury symbolically, not as a renunciation, but as a new form of prestige.

The study also highlights a strategic shift: luxury can no longer settle for “doing less harm.” It is now expected to create positive, measurable, and shared value that is compatible with planetary boundaries. A transformation that profoundly redefines the very notion of desirability.

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North Sails Apparel names Cédric Georges as CEO

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Nicola Mira

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January 13, 2026

There’s a new executive at the helm of North Sails Apparel. Frenchman Cédric Georges has been appointed CEO of the Italian sportswear brand inspired by the world of sailing. It’s an additional top executive role for Georges, formerly the boss of outdoor apparel brand Odlo, who joined North Technology Group in 2024 and is currently also the CEO of Netherlands-based North Actionsports Group, a leader in kiteboarding, windsurfing and wakeboarding equipment.

North Sails’s ready-to-wear division has appointed a new CEO – North Sails

Georges has already moved to Milan to take up his new role. He replaced Victor Duran (formerly with McKinsey, Amer Sports and Intersport), who left the company in December 2025 after a two-year tenure. 

“I am honoured to step into my new role as president and CEO of North Sails Apparel and North Actionsports Group,” Georges recently posted on his LinkedIn account. “Leading two companies of the North Technology Group, based in two different countries and operating in two distinct industries, will certainly be challenging – and that’s exactly what makes this journey so motivating. On a more personal note, we’ve recently relocated to Milan with my family, embracing this new chapter both professionally and personally. I am grateful for the trust placed in me and truly excited to work alongside our amazing teams to build what’s coming next,” he added.

It’s a crucial challenge for North Sails Apparel, which is distributed via several hundred stores, with Italy as its main market, and is active within as embattled a segment as ready-to-wear. Georges has the opportunity to rebuild on shared principles the two divisions he is in charge of, which together generate a revenue of nearly €150 million.

Their results were consolidated in H1 2025, and they are both subsidiaries of sailmaking giant North Sails, a company founded in California in 1957 by Lowell North. North Sails launched into the ready-to-wear business in 1989, signing a licence deal in Italy. US investment firm Oakley Capital Investments (OCI) bought North Sails in 2014, and subsequently took over the whole North Technology Group business, which in 2022 bought the apparel division operated by Italian sailing specialist Tomasoni Topsail. OCI has indicated that the revenue of the North Sails group grew by 7% in H1 2025, with EBITDA up 11%.

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Meta seeks to double Ray-Ban glasses output after surge in demand

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January 13, 2026

Meta Platforms Inc. and EssilorLuxottica SA are discussing potentially doubling production capacity for AI-powered smart glasses by the end of this year, in a bid to capture growing demand and head off rivals, according to people familiar with the matter.

The Ray-Ban Meta smart glasses – Meta Platforms, Inc

With sales of Ray-Ban Meta frames taking hold, Facebook-owner Meta has suggested increasing annual capacity to 20 million units or more by the end of 2026, said the people, asking not to be named because the deliberations are private. 

The partners have also discussed going further to establish the capability of producing more than 30 million units, should demand justify such a move, the people said. They cautioned that no decisions have been made.

The talks underscore Meta’s desire to extend its artificial-intelligence strategy into hardware it can control end-to-end, reducing the tech giant’s reliance on smartphones produced by competitors. A step-up in output would signal confidence that smart glasses can move beyond early adopters and reach mass-market scale.

EssilorLuxottica, which is responsible for manufacturing, is already near its current capacity target of 10 million pairs by the end of 2026, one of the people said. The world’s largest eyewear maker, with brands such as Ray-Ban and Oakley and retailers Sunglass Hut and LensCrafters, has a production footprint and customer reach giving Meta a large-scale platform to expand its smart-glasses lead.

Representatives for Meta and EssilorLuxottica declined to comment.

The talks on production reflect a deepening relationship as Meta pivots toward the augmented reality of smart glasses and lowers its commitment to fully immersive VR headsets. The tech company last year bought about a 3% stake in EssilorLuxottica, giving Meta closer access to EssilorLuxottica’s manufacturing know-how and retail network.

The two companies began working together in 2019 and launched their first Ray-Ban branded smart glasses in 2021. They have reported growing momentum in recent months, with EssilorLuxottica saying in October that Meta smart glasses helped spur revenue growth in the third quarter.

In September, Meta unveiled the latest $799 Meta Ray-Ban Display in the US, incorporating for the first time text that appears directly on the right-hand lens. At the CES expo in Las Vegas last week, Meta said it had paused an international expansion of the new frames to the UK, France, Italy, and Canada because of “unprecedented demand and limited inventory.” 

The news gave EssilorLuxottica shares a 5.2% boost on January 6, after a 15% rise last year. After Bloomberg’s report on Tuesday, shares of Paris-based EssilorLuxottica reversed losses, advancing as much as 2%. Meta slipped 1% in the US.

The smart-glasses market has drawn interest from global technology groups as advances in AI, battery life and components make lighter, non-immersive wearables more practical. 

Meta has the early lead with an estimated 73% global market share in the first half of 2025, according to Counterpoint. The researcher forecasts over 60% compound annual growth for the category through 2029. Yet competition is rising.

Last May, Alphabet Inc.’s Google formed a smart-glasses partnership with the eyewear division of Gucci owner Kering SA, while Apple Inc. has redirected resources toward AI-powered glasses after scaling back work on its Vision Pro headset. Chinese groups including Xiaomi Corp. and Huawei Technologies have also rolled out smart glasses as companies test consumer demand for AI-enabled wearables.

Meta sees smart glasses as a key way to deliver its AI services as it races with tech heavyweights like Alphabet and OpenAI to dominate the next generation of technology. 

The tech industry’s push into smart glasses dovetails with EssilorLuxottica Chief Executive Officer Francesco Milleri’s strategy to expand in wearables and medical technology while preserving its dominance in traditional eyewear, he said in an interview in October. He foresees smart glasses potentially replacing smartphones over time. 

Yet a steeper production ramp would also create challenges for EssilorLuxottica, as it balances growth with the cost of preparing its factories for the push. 

Ray-Ban Meta smart glasses are expected to generate substantially lower gross margins than EssilorLuxottica’s broader product line, according to analysts at RBC Capital Markets. Higher revenue and improved component costs will likely mitigate some of these strains as volume rises, they said.

Analysts are expected to ask EssilorLuxottica about its output plans with Meta when the French-Italian group reports annual results in the first half of February. 

The companies have closely guarded specific figures on Ray-Ban Meta sales- EssilorLuxottica executives said in February 2025 that they had delivered about 2 million units of the Ray-Ban Meta frames since late 2023. 

Chief financial officer Stefano Grassi said in an October conference call that he expected to reach the capacity goal of 10 million units earlier than the original end-of-2026 target, without specifying further. He added that EssilorLuxottica has “the capability to do it in-house or outsource.”



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What’s next for Vestiaire Collective after its change in leadership?

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January 13, 2026

Premium and luxury second-hand platform Vestiaire Collective has parted ways with co-founder and president Fanny Moizant. Of the leadership trio assembled in 2019 with managing director Maximilian Bittner and fashion director Sophie Hersan, only the latter remains- the last co-founder still in post at the company. This changing of the guard raises questions about the strategy of Bernard Osta, who recently took the helm and plans to harness AI and marketing to strengthen the platform’s position.

Fanny Moizant, Sophie Hersan and Maximilian Bittner, the management trio that operated from 2019 to 2025 – Vestiaire Collective

Vestiaire Collective does not publish its figures. Its revenue was estimated at around €414 million for 2024. Operating in more than 70 countries, the platform claims 30,000 new listings per day and around 23 million members.

This shift in governance comes as the clothing sector undergoes a transition of its own. With demand slowing as consumers redirect spending to other categories, industry players are seeking to adapt. Vestiaire Collective must also contend with an online sales model which, after years of strong growth in the West, is no longer insulated from fluctuations in consumer spending.

Consumer spending, after a health crisis, an energy crisis, the invasion of Ukraine, and worsening geopolitical tensions, is now showing its limits even in the luxury market. This is a segment in which Vestiaire Collective has historically built a strong position against other second-hand fashion players, but where the ubiquitous Vinted is now seeking to compete with dedicated features.

“Vestiaire Collective has established itself as the benchmark marketplace in the highly attractive second-hand luxury fashion sector,” said Bernard Osta upon his appointment. “Together, we will continue to transform fashion by giving a second life to the most coveted pieces, in the service of a more sustainable model.”

A study by the French Federation of Circular Fashion (FMC) estimated last year that the European second-hand fashion market would grow by 8.5% per year to reach €26 billion in 2030, compared with €15.9 billion in 2024. These gains will, more than ever, have to be captured from the new-goods market, underpinned by significant investment in technology and communications.

AI and marketing

Like many marketplaces, the French company is betting heavily on artificial intelligence, both to rationalise costs- at a time when investors are closely scrutinising return on investment (ROI)- and to streamline its processes, as AI tools are now capable of purchasing on third-party sites on behalf of customers.

Bernard Osta, Managing Director of Vestiaire Collective
Bernard Osta, Managing Director of Vestiaire Collective – Vestiaire Collective

It is a pivot to AI that Vestiaire Collective has already been preparing. At the end of 2024, the company announced its first two AI-powered features, focused on search and recommendations.

But the move towards AI was marked above all by the hiring of Stacia Carr, previously vice president of Fashion Customer Experience at Zalando, where she led engineering and applied sciences. Another heavyweight, Jim Freeman, a US tech figure with stints at Amazon and Zalando, has also joined the board.

“With the rise of AI, we have an extraordinary opportunity to accelerate our product roadmap, offer a more engaging customer experience and gain market share,” says Bernard Osta, whose company now sets out a “vast product roadmap powered by AI to improve the experience of buyers and sellers at an accelerated pace.”

International campaigns

The company also intends to boost its profile, and address a relative lack of brand awareness versus other second-hand players such as Lithuania’s Vinted and France’s Leboncoin. To this end, campaigns have been announced targeting Europe and the US as well as Asia-Pacific (APAC), under the leadership of Samina Virk, who took over as marketing director last July.

Reuters

In its communications, the company can notably draw on the environmental benefits of reusing clothing. For several seasons, the site has rolled out hard-hitting campaigns showing global capitals and beaches covered in textile waste, and has even enlisted influencers in its fight against fast fashion, which is banned from its platform.

On the financial side, the company last raised €178 million in 2021, followed by a €75 million debt refinancing subsequently. Around €3.5 million was also raised via crowdfunding in 2024.

Since September, the company has offered a menswear category, and in December it was ranked the seventh-largest cross-border resale platform in Europe by CBCommerce Europe. In this “recommerce” ranking, the company sits alongside eBay, H&M, Back Market, and Vinted.

Against its Lithuanian competitor, Vestiaire Collective fully intends to defend its premium and luxury positioning. And perhaps revive an IPO project which, despite the support of minority shareholder Kering, has yet to come to fruition.

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