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Antonio Marras draws poetic inspiration from the opera “La Bella d’Alghero”

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Translated by

Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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March 1, 2025

Nothing is ever by chance with Antonio Marras. With his fashion show for FW2025-26, the Sardinian designer reaffirms, more than ever, his strong ties to his homeland, particularly his hometown of Alghero, and tells a unique story rooted in the art and music of the past.

Sharon Stone and Antonio Marras backstage at the fashion show.

“The collection draws inspiration from an opera from 1892 that we rediscovered, staged only once in the Salone dei Concerti of the Liceo Musicale Rossini in Pesaro: La Bella d’Alghero,” the designer tells us backstage at his fashion show, organized at Fabbrica Orobia. “We have done a great job of reconstructing the history of this opera, and in collaboration with the City of Alghero, we will bring it back to the stage.”

The Sardinian town, formerly a Catalan enclave, is the backdrop for the opera, which is well recognizable to those who, like Marras, know it well: its historic center, the sea, and the majestic profile of Capo Caccia on the horizon. September 29, the feast of St. Michael, the city’s patron saint, is the day on which the story takes place. The story is a typical melodramatic interweaving of unrequited or deceived love affairs, resulting in the tragic death of the protagonist, who jumps from the Capo Caccia promontory.

Antonio Marras, AW 2025-26
Antonio Marras, AW 2025-26

“We thought of a large caravan of thespians arriving from Barcelona to Alghero to stage the opera. The silhouettes are close-fitting and sensual, and the key word is layering: in each dress, there can be as many as ten different materials, which can be glimpsed. The latest releases feature a new technique: brushstrokes that I drew in the morning, inspired by the Catalan artist Antoni Tàpies, and that same afternoon were printed on fabric,” Marras continues. “There are so many details, that’s why I deliberately chose a minimal and industrial location, with a single blade of light that puts the woman at the center and allows you to discover all the details of the creations.”

Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26
Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26

Marras’s poetry is staged before the eyes of an ever-dazzling Sharon Stone, seated in the front row with her smile and kindness, and with a soundtrack chosen by the designer himself as a tribute to his family, whose history continues even under the umbrella of the Oniverse group, which acquired 80 percent of the label in 2022: “Verde Luna, for example, is a love song that my parents used to sing; the soundtrack is almost entirely female, the only exception being Claudio Villa, my father’s favorite singer, with his Granada sung in Spanish.”

Just as poetic is the press kit and placeholder for the fashion show: an opera libretto with a musical score, telling guests the story of the Bella d’Alghero.

Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26
Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26

The silhouettes in the collection are tailored, layered, aligned with the body, but also voluminous, micro, or maximalist. Incredible workmanship enriches the garments, including applications, embroideries, patch inserts, decorations, swirls, hand prints, flocks, and pleats.

The choice of fabrics is also very wide, ranging from the more formal pinstripes, Prince of Wales, and checks to the surprising velvets, brocades, and damask, passing through leather, denim, taffeta, silk twill, georgette, satin, voile, and tulle.

Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26
Antonio Marras, FW 2025-26

The clothes are like blank sheets of paper on which Marras sketches his signature motifs with brushstrokes, drawings, and sketches: hands, roses, stripes, dots, lines, and portraits.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Mesh Metal ‘N’ Roll with the house on the block

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Her fashion house is reportedly up for sale. Company turnover was down 15% last year. We’re in an era of quiet luxury, and her brand’s DNA is thunderous chic. But Donatella Versace still staged a great show Friday night in Milan.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
Anyone considering acquiring the house of Versace should have attended this show, staged inside a giant 19th-century tram station in northern Milan. Amid near hysteria, thousands of fans screamed and chanted “Versace! Versace!” as editors and VIPs arrived, testifying to the brand’s unique star power. The front row, featuring new campaign ambassador and Oscar winner Cillian Murphy, was packed, with the actor ringside at this display.
 
According to reports, Prada has been granted exclusive rights for four weeks to review the Versace financials with an eye toward acquisition. Even though the two labels’ DNAs—and their runway shows—are light years apart, with Prada’s cerebral chic versus Versace’s rock ‘n’ roll glamor.

Inside the station, Donatella constructed a 150-meter-long catwalk, which the cast stomped down in a series of fresh takes on signature codes invented by Gianni and Donatella Versace. Playing with bold cheetah prints—seen in puffer jackets, silk dressing gowns, party shirts, and a couple of stupendous down mini cocktail dresses in large petal shapes.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
Donatella also trumpeted another Versace innovation: the chain-metal dress with a stupendous cocktail in degraded metallic silver and a later column—both blinding and beautiful. She also drew inspiration from posh punk styles, as seen in Gianni Versace‘s finale show just before her brother’s 1997 death.

Photo Credits: Godfrey Deeny

 
Versace was once known for making the leanest and most refined black suits for evening wear in fashion. This season, it reclaimed that status with some excellent soirée tailoring.
 
Six years ago, Capri Holdings paid $2.1 billion for Versace. Few people expect it to fetch that price post-COVID, with consumers far more interested in foreign travel than in more frocks.
 
Still, this was Donatella Versace’s best show of the decade, backed by the best soundtrack in Milan with roaring mixes of Sworn Virgins, Dry Cleaning, and David Holmes. Few serious professionals believe her position is under threat—despite internet chatter. But if it were one of her last collections, then it was a big, bold, winning statement.

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Club L London is Lavish Alice’s new owner

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February 28, 2025

Two like-minded “leading and legacy” brands in contemporary occasionwear are now linked up. Club L London has acquired Lavish Alice (for an undisclosed seven-figure sum) “uniting two leading, legacy brands”. They will  continue to operate as a standalone brands.

The “strategic move” marks Club L London’s first acquisition and includes all aspects of Lavish Alice’s operations… intellectual property rights, website, inventory, social media accounts, and customer data, the new owner said.

“This comprehensive integration strengthens Club L London’s market position and accelerates global expansion, positioning both brands for enhanced growth and innovation in the fashion industry,” it added. 

And behind the acquisition is a £44 million 2004 turnover, a 51% year-on-year increase.

“Club L London continues to drive strong results through  strategic investments and operational innovations. With Lavish Alice joining its portfolio, the brand expands its design-led luxury offering, furthering its vision for a scalable, multi-brand platform” Club L said.

“Alice is poised to scale, innovate, and reach new levels of success while staying true to its distinct identity”, the new owner added.

Katie Randev, founder and CEO, added: “This acquisition is a strategic step in our journey to scale globally and further elevate our brand portfolio.

She added: “Bringing Lavish Alice into the Club L London Group strengthens our market presence and reinforces our position in the premium fashion space. It’s a brand I’ve always respected for its design integrity and strong identity.”

Lavish Alice founders Lee Bloor and Matthew Newton added: “From being stocked in world-renowned retailers to dressing A-list celebrities, Lavish Alice has been a true labour of love. We are proud to pass on our legacy to Club L London, a leader in the occasionwear space, and look forward to seeing the brand continue to thrive in its next chapter.”

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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Damart UK in retail expansion, aims for garden centre’s 55-plus-aged customers

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February 28, 2025

UK fashion catalogue and online retailer Damart is expanding its UK business into physical stores. And the “big adventure” begins by building on its four-month association with Associated Independent Stores (AIS).
 

Damart

As part of the brand’s retail expansion, Damart is to first open an in-store concession with Sheffield independent department store Atkinsons on 3 March.

But the big news is the retailer has also secured concessions with British Garden Centres, starting with three stores opening in Morpeth (1 March), followed by  Gloucester and Rugby, with “many more locations across the UK… in the pipeline”.

Alison Fisher, trading and merchandise planning director at Damart, said: “This [expansion] is part of a new era for Damart UK and a successful build on our membership of AIS, as we work with members to broaden their offering to the 55+ female customer.”
 
She added: “In addition, working with British Garden Centres taps directly into our customer base, as we know there is perfect synergy with their customer and ours. We’re looking forward to having our customers be able to touch, see and feel our range in store, so they can fully experience the quality and dedication to detail, and try on a range of inspiring looks.”
 
Damart currently has one physical store at its Bingley (Yorkshire) headquarters… “so expanding into physical stores will enable customers to engage with the retailer in a way that is not possible online and in print, significantly reinforcing its brand appeal.”

Copyright © 2025 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.



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