The bill on the textile industry’s environmental impact is making progress in France, over a year after being tabled in the Senate following a unanimous vote in the National Assembly, France’s Parliament.
Government questions session at the National Assembly in Paris on November 12, 2024 – Ian LANGSDON / AFP
The date for the bill’s Senate debate was postponed sine die at the start of the year, prompting widespread discontent within environmental organisations and parts of the fashion industry. News of a fresh timetable emerged on March 19, and the bill is now expected to be discussed by the Senate in the week of May 19.
The announcement was made in the National Assembly by Véronique Louwagie, the Minister in charge of trade, crafts, SMEs, and the social and community economy, answering questions by Olivia Grégoire, MP and former minister with the same remit, about the government’s initiatives to protect companies and employees in the fashion and crafts sectors.
“There are product flows increasingly coming [into France] from foreign platforms. A new model has been created, fast fashion, which has a significant environmental, social and economic impact,” said Louwagie. “Yes, we need to act in various domains. The first is Europe. France strongly supports the revision of the threshold for exemption from customs duties on low-value parcels. It’s an issue that has to do with fighting fraud. Discussions are also ongoing at EU level on the introduction of non-discriminatory management fees to finance customs services. We must act at the national level too, this is the purpose of the bill that was examined this morning in a Senate committee and which, I’m telling you know, will probably be debated by the Senate during the week of May 19. The government is pushing in this direction,” added Louwagie.
Environmental associations put pressure on the French Senate at the end of last week, depositing textile waste near the upper chamber. On the morning of March 19, the Senate’s Regional Planning and Sustainable Development committee worked on the bill that was first drafted by MPs over a year ago. Led by Sylvie Valente-Le Hir, the bill’s rapporteur in the Senate, the committee made a series of changes that were unanimously approved.
“The bill now comprises several other elements, including a more precise definition of fast fashion, which focuses on the breadth of range but also the fact that the prices charged do not encourage [garment] repairs,” said Louwagie, speaking to the National Assembly. Crucially, she also indicated that fast-fashion products are set to be penalised not simply on the basis of their environmental impact, but also because of the specific commercial practices of fast-fashion e-tailers. The minister’s announcement of a possible date for the bill’s discussion was met with a sustained round of applause, confirming the interest in the issue.
Eleven amendments
The Senate committee in charge of the bill has now completed its work on the text approved by the National Assembly. Eleven amendments have been adopted, out of the 25 tabled before the committee. Some amendments were jettisoned because they were considered irrelevant or simply legislative riders. Three were rejected. One concerned raising the penalty threshold for fast-fashion products. A second aimed to incorporate, in the bill’s Article 2, the notion of “social criteria based on respect for human rights,” in addition to environmental aspects. The third, still within Article 2, was an amendment that proposed inserting a paragraph aimed at awarding a bonus based on social criteria, in addition to those attributed for improved environmental performance.
So what were the 11 amendments adopted by the Senate committee? They did not call into question the original spirit of the law, specifying in particular the type of practices and entities that will be targeted, notably those that “facilitate, through the use of a digital interface such as a marketplace, a website, a portal or similar device, distance selling and the delivery of products” and whose strategy is based on rapid collection turnover. It was also specified that the thresholds [applied to fast fashion] will take into account the “number of new items per unit of time, the number of different items, and the short duration of their commercialisation period.” Consumers should be informed by means of warnings placed close to product prices on the platforms in questions, regarding “[consumption] restraint, reusing, repairing, and recycling products, and raising awareness about their environmental impact.”
The bill will stipulate that a contact person for fast-fashion players must be identified in France. They must be “a natural or legal person based in France, acting as a representative responsible for ensuring compliance with the obligations relating to the extended producer responsibility scheme.” The bill provides for a system of penalties and bonuses. The Senate committee notably indicated that “financial contributions will vary … based in particular on the results obtained by applying the environmental score methodology … The eco-organisation’s specifications stipulate that the additional contributions collected will chiefly be reallocated in the form of bonuses to manufacturers of those products that meet eco-design criteria for improved environmental performance.” The bill is suggesting that penalties per product could be valued at €5 in 2025, €6 in 2026, €7 in 2027, €8 in 2028, €9 in 2029, and €10 in 2030. Such increasingly higher penalties are designed to put pressure on the sector to change. A paragraph also stipulates that part of the monies collected will be used by “eco-organisations to finance collection and recycling infrastructure in non-EU countries.”
Another area covered by the Senate committee is advertising: there is to be a ban on advertising and influencer marketing for certain players. Finally, two new articles were added to the bill (articles 6 and 7), requiring the government to produce ad hoc reports. Article 6 states that “within six months of the promulgation of this law, the Government shall submit to Parliament a report examining the opportunity of extending the carbon border adjustment mechanism to textile products manufactured outside the European Union’s territory.” This means subjecting products imported into the customs territory of the European Union to a carbon emission tariff equivalent to that applied to European manufacturers producing the same items. Finally, in the same spirit, Article 7 calls for a report to take stock after one year “of mirror measures at the borders of the European internal market to impose European health, social and environmental standards on imports of textile products with fast and very fast turnover.”
Above all, the Senate committee is keen to work towards a change in approach, and has analysed “the opportunity of reversing the burden of proof at the time of the products’ entry into the European Union; it would then be the exporter’s responsibility to prove that their products have been produced in accordance with European standards.”
Given the tense global geopolitical context, especially in the field of trade relations, the debates in the French Senate, planned for May, are likely to be both intense and delicate.
Puma has officially unveiled what it says is a “bold conquest strategy and brand positioning” with its new Go Wild campaign, which is its biggest global campaign to date.
This is a big deal for the label and a major rethink of its marketing and overall positioning.
The sports giant said its “new vision for sport [that’s] aligned with the expectations of a younger generation and rooted in Puma’s history [is] crystallized through the campaign”.
It comes as the firm also announced a 40% increase in advertising investments compared to 2024.
The campaign is “an evolution in its brand identity, reinforcing its commitment to redefining the game, and setting the stage for long-term, sustainable growth”. It was developed with the largest consumer research in the brand’s history, “finding a clear space in the market for Puma where performance meets joy – an untapped territory that [the brand] is uniquely positioned to own”.
It kicks off with a focus on the sport of running, “aligning with a positive audience response in this space and rooted in the belief that running is at its best when you chase the highs, with Puma unleashing the energy inside you so you can earn the high”.
Julie Legrand, senior director global brand strategy and communications, explained: “We started with the consumer insight that running will give you a rush like nothing else. Which means that no matter how hard it is, you will never regret a run.”
Puma
To mark the launch, there’s a hero film, “a tribute to runners unlocking the runner’s high – a rush of happy chemicals released during physical activity”. It moves away from featuring athletes and celebrities and instead celebrates “the everyday runner, including the early-rising runners, a runner with their dog, a new mum, or running as a community”.
And that really counts because the pre-tests among runners “confirm the remarkable potential of this campaign: key markets such as USA and Germany ranked in the top 15% of the most effective ads in driving sales and in the top 1% for the predicted long-term market share growth, indicator that is connected with brand strength”.
It all went live on Thursday and will be amplified through a multi-channel global media strategy spanning multiple touchpoints – digital, OOH, PR, social, TV, retail, and talent-driven activations worldwide.
Following the launch, it will continue through 2025/26 by “strategically spotlighting different business units within sport, including basketball and football, and leveraging key global sporting events”.
The company will also be launching a content series that aims to explain ‘Go Wild’ to its audience through its ambassadors’ stories. From Tommie Smith in 1968 and Usain Bolt in 2008 to Mondo Duplantis in 2024 (referred to as “our Wild Ones”).
So what’s the thinking behind all this? The company said it “presents a new vision of sports aligned with the expectations of new generations and rooted in its history where, sport is a form of self-expression, a source of enjoyment, and a way to create social connections. With this, Puma is launching a major strategic offensive, unveiling a positioning at the intersection of its DNA, its heritage, and the aspirations of new generations of consumers”.
Puma
That focus on Gen Z is key with the company explaining that these consumers “seek immersive experiences, social connection, and pleasure from sport”.
And “more than just a worship of performance, Puma aims to inspire individuals to unleash their wild energy through sport. By capturing the human instinct, we all feel when playing sport, Puma aims to expand its global presence and make more meaningful connections with its audience”.
Richard Teyssier, global VP Brand and Marketing at Puma, added: “From Tommie Smith’s raised fist in 1968 to Usain Bolt’s explosion of joy in 2008. We believe that greatness begins with the courage to be yourself and this philosophy has always guided Puma, resonating more than ever with the younger generation. With this ‘Go Wild’ campaign, we are taking our first step to further connect with our audience, with the first chapter focusing on running with a truly unique and disruptive approach.”
Ethical retailing can come at a cost as former Body Shop suppliers are finding out. The unsecured creditors from the beauty retailer’s administration last year, including manufacturers, landlords, local councils and small charities, are to receive just 16-27% of the £219 million owed to them when the retailer went under.
DR
The retailer, which was founded by Anita Roddick in 1976 and was once part of both L’Oréal’s and Natura’s extensive beauty portfolios, fell into administration via its previous owner, German restructuring specialist Aurelius.
At the time of its collapse, administrators said the Body Shop’s debts totalled over £276 million, The Guardian reported.
The brand was rescued by a consortium led by the British cosmetics tycoon Mike Jatania in September, paying at least £44.3 million for the retailer, saving 1,300 jobs. However, its initial failure came at a cost of 80 stores closed and 750 jobs lost, taking its UK high street tally to 113.
In their latest update, administrators from FRP said UK tax authorities would be paid in full from the proceeds of the administration and workers would receive holiday pay owed. However it confirmed unsecured creditors owed £219 million in total, would receive only between 16% and 27% of the money owed.
The report shows the Body Shop owed millions of pounds to suppliers around the world, the most to Avon, the cosmetics group owned by Natura, at just over £13 million for products it manufactured.
The retailer’s former owner Aurelius did not receive any payment, the report said.
The group, now run by the former Molton Brown boss Charles Denton, has reportedly said the business “had achieved a profit in its first 100 days”.
The International Woolmark Prize returns to Milan in April and to mark that there’s a strong Italian contingent on the jury as eight of the world’s most promising design talents compete for the accolade and cash prize.
The jury
And the biggest name joining the select group is Donatella Versace, Versace, who recently announced that she’ll step down from the creative helm of her label to become its chief brand ambassador as of the start of next month. She’s the chair of the judges this time.
Also on the panel is Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna; Alessandro Dell’Acqua, N°21 founder and creative director; and Simone Marchetti, Vanity Fair European editorial director and Vanity Fair Italia editor-in-chief.
But it’s not an all-Italian affair with the prize’s guest artistic director IB Kamara, and “image architect” Law Roach, among others, judging the finalists.
Donatella Versace said: “Supporting the next generation of fashion talent has never been more important. I am so excited to host the Woolmark Prize in our home city of Milan and to meet the designers selected. I am sure they will all be winners in their own way. I am honoured to be chair of the judging panel for the 2025 Woolmark Prize alongside my fellow amazing judges. Woolmark has always been such fantastic supporters of the future of fashion.”
The finalists for the prize this time include Italy’s Act N°1, Duran Lantink from the Netherlands, Belgium’s Ester Manas, and Meryll Rogge, France’s LGNLouis Gabriel Nouchi, and London-based Irish label Standing Ground.
The 2025 final event is the first edition of the International Woolmark Prize in its new biennial format. One finalist will be awarded the International Woolmark Prize and receive the increased prize fund of A$300,000 for business development, while all of them “will have the opportunity to be stocked at some of the world’s leading stores”.