The Fashion Awards on Monday evening made an impact on multiple levels from the assorted luminaries winning awards to H&M unveiling a new Stella McCartney collab on the red carpet and that same red carpet being crashed by two PETA supporters holding signs proclaiming, “Leather is Destroying the Planet. Wear Your Own Skin”.
Jonathan Anderson with actress Sunday Rose Kidman-Urban – Photo by @niallhodsonphotography
While many of the awards had been flagged in advance and the red carpet events grabbed the headlines, the key news was who bagged the top designer title.
And the answer was Jonathan Anderson. He took the big title — Designer of the Year — yet again. It was his third win in a row and it was perhaps no surprise. After all, Anderson can justifiably claim to be Britain’s top designer given his move this year to become creative supremo at Dior.
Sarah Burton with Cate Blanchett – Photo by @niallhodsonphotography
Meanwhile Sarah Burton won the British Womenswear Designer of the Year title. The Alexander McQueen veteran is now at the design helm of Givenchy and was a popular choice, as was a much newer name who took the equivalent menswear title. Grace Wales Bonner (recently named to the design helm of Hermès menswear) was named British Menswear Designer of the Year for the second time in succession.
Meanwhile Dilara Fındıkoğlu bagged the Vanguard Award, which recognises a designer at the forefront of a new wave in British fashion.
The event at the Albert hall in London was hosted by two-time BAFTA and Oscar nominated actor, playwright and director Colman Domingo and attracted scores of celebs from Sienna Miller to Cate Blanchett, Anna Wintour, FKA Twigs, SharonStone, Kylie Minogue, Iman, Raye, David Gandy and many more.
Other notable winners included Lulu Kennedy and Raphaelle Moore receiving a Special Recognition Award for Fashion East. The talent incubator marks its 25th anniversary this year, with Fashion East alumni including Kim Jones, Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Roksanda, Martine Rose, Grace Wales Bonner, Craig Green, and Nensi Dojaka, among others.
Sienna Miller and Grace Wales Bonner – Photo by @niallhodsonphotography
And the award came with news that the BFC will double its support over the next three years to Fashion East, “to help ensure the UK remains the global leader in creative talent”.
Previously flagged as winners were LVMH’s Delphine Arnault as the recipient of the Special Recognition Award that honours an outstanding contribution to the fashion industry, while Chanel also received a Special Recognition Award; Brunello Cucinelli received the Outstanding Achievement Award; Anok Yai was named Model of the Year; and Dover Street Market’s Rei Kawakubo, Adrian Joffe and Dickon Bowden received the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator.
Meanwhile, costume designer Kate Hawley was the recipient of the inaugural Costume Designer of the Year Award, recognising Hawley’s “exceptional costume design” for Guillermo del Toro’s Frankenstein.
And from one cultural medium to a Cultural Innovator, the BFC named Little Simz this year’s recipient. The multi-award-winning artist was the youngest curator of the Southbank Centre’s Meltdown Festival, this year.
Finally, the late Melanie Ward was recognised with a posthumous Outstanding Contribution to Fashion Award. The influential stylist and creative died in October after suffering from cancer.
On Friday, France demanded a series of measures from Shein to demonstrate that the products sold on its website comply with the law, but dropped its initial request for a total three-month suspension of the online platform, which had been based on the sale of child-like sex dolls and prohibited weapons.
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At a hearing before the Paris court, a lawyer representing the state said that Shein must implement controls on its website, including age verification and filtering, to ensure that minors cannot access pornographic content. The state asked the court to impose a suspension of Shein’s marketplace until Shein has provided proof to Arcom, the French communications regulator, that these controls have been implemented.
Shein deactivated its marketplace- where third-party sellers offer their products- in France on November 5, after authorities discovered illegal items for sale, but its site selling Shein-branded clothing remains accessible. The state invoked Article 6.3 of France’s Digital Economy Act, which empowers judges to order measures to prevent or halt harm caused by online content.
“We don’t claim to be here to replace the European Commission,” the state’s lawyer said. “We are not here today to regulate; we are here to prevent harm, in the face of things that are unacceptable.” At the time of writing, the hearing is still ongoing.
In a statement issued last week, the Paris public prosecutor’s office said that a three-month suspension could be deemed “disproportionate” in light of European Court of Human Rights case law if Shein could prove that it had ceased all sales of illegal products. However, the public prosecutor’s office said it “fully supported” the government’s request that Shein provide evidence of the measures taken to stop such sales.
France’s decision comes against a backdrop of heightened scrutiny of Chinese giants such as Shein and Temu under the EU’s Digital Services Act, reflecting concerns about consumer safety, the sale of illegal products, and unfair competition. In the US, Texas Attorney General Ken Paxton said on Monday that he was investigating Shein to determine whether the fast-fashion retailer had violated state law relating to unethical labour practices and the sale of dangerous consumer products.
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BasicNet’s Kappa turns back the sporting clock for its new AW25 collection, which celebrates “local heroes in football” with a community-focused campaign “honouring the places and people that inspire a lifelong love of the game”.
Image: Kappa
The campaign shines a light on local talent Tyrone Marsh in his hometown of Bedford, revisiting the streets, pitches and community spots “that shaped his football journey”.
Local photographer Simon Gill, who had pictured Marsh during many home and away games, not only “captures the Bedford Town player in the spaces that helped define his skill”, but also highlights the brand’s “rich football heritage with contemporary streetwear energy, creating visuals that pay tribute to community, culture and grassroots football”.
The journey includes Hartwell Drive, the early days of his after-school kickabouts, Hillgrounds Road, synonymous with Bedford football culture, and then onto Faraday Square, locally identified by the concrete pitches and community spirit.
To reflect that journey, the AW25 collection “offers a sense of nostalgia” with Kappa’s long-standing history in fashion and sports “seen through the Omini logo placements and 222 Banda strip”.
The campaign sees Marsh wearing Kappa styles including the Lyman and Uriah Track Tops paired with the Ulrich Track Pants in classic colourways including navy and light blue.
The wider collection includes track tops, track pants, shorts, polos, sweatshirts and T-shirts, available at select retailers across the UK including 80s Casual Classics, Terraces Menswear and RD1 Clothing.
UK footfall down in November? Blame the Budget and bad weather. Those two important factors damaged shoppers’ desire to venture out, resulting in an albeit slender 0.8% year-on-year dip in footfall last month, with all types of destinations suffering. It was also the seventh consecutive footfall decline, noted the latest British Retail Consortium (BRC)/Sensormatic report
Image: Nigel Taylor
That meant visits to high streets were down 1.2% in November and down from a 0.6% rise in October; shopping centre footfall dipped 1.3% last month, down from a 0.9% dip in October; and retail park visits were down 0.4% in November, but were better than a 0.5% dip in October.
The BRC also noted that November’s Storm Claudia prompted many consumers to search online for Black Friday deals throughout November, leading some to not visit physical stores on Black Friday.
But there was good news, with some northern UK cities – including Manchester and Sheffield – continuing to buck the trend, “recording positive footfall for the eighth consecutive month”.
So with many shoppers holding off on store visits until this month, Helen Dickinson, chief executive of the British Retail Consortium, said: “With the Golden Quarter in full swing, retailers are continuing to invest what they can to entice customers into stores over Christmas.
“However, as we approach the New Year, given the downward trend in footfall across recent years, we need a comprehensive strategy to revitalise our high streets and shopping centres, from better transport, affordable parking, to a reformed planning system to enable faster, better development.”
Andy Sumpter, Retail Consultant EMEA for Sensormatic, added: “November may have been dominated by caution, but there are glimmers of hope. The Golden Quarter isn’t over yet, and with four of our predicted Top Five shopping days still to come, the festive season could deliver the lift retailers need. A last-minute rush may top off the year, turning caution into celebration. With the right balance of value, convenience, and experience, there’s still time to make December count.”