Under the agreement reached between Amazon and the U.S. consumer protection authority (FTC), the Seattle-based company will pay $1.5 billion to compensate affected subscribers, while a further $1 billion will be paid to the US Treasury as a penalty.
“Today, the FTC (…) has won a monumental and unprecedented victory for the millions of Americans weary of deceptive subscriptions that seem impossible to cancel,” said FTC Commissioner Andrew N. Ferguson in a statement.
“Amazon and our executives have always respected the law, and this agreement allows us to move forward and focus on innovation to serve our customers,” the company said in a statement, which, through this agreement, avoids a conviction or any admission of the allegations.
In 2024, Amazon was the leading fashion retailer in the United States, capturing 16.2% of the U.S. apparel market. A category that, along with high-tech, is among the marketplace’s flagship offerings. In France, Amazon is the third-biggest clothing retailer by volume, across all channels, behind Vinted and Kiabi, according to the new consumer barometer from the Institut Français de la Mode.
“Dark patterns” to fool customers
This case is part of a series of recent lawsuits brought in the U.S. under both Democratic and Republican administrations to curb the unchecked dominance of several major technology companies, such as Google and Apple, after years of governmental leniency. With regard to Prime, the FTC brought this action in 2023, accusing Amazon of knowingly deploying manipulative interfaces, known as “dark patterns”, so that, at the point of purchase, consumers would also subscribe to the Prime service for $139 per year.
This paid subscription offers a number of additional services, including free, fast delivery, discounts in certain supermarkets and access to Amazon’s video platform. The company faced two main allegations: that it gained subscribers without their explicit consent, by making it very difficult to click the right buttons to refuse the subscription, and that it created a deliberately complex cancellation system, internally nicknamed “Iliad”, after Homer’s poem about the long and difficult Trojan War.
Amazon promises change
Amazon was also accused of charging its customers before disclosing the full terms and conditions of the subscription. The case began on Monday with a jury trial in federal court in Seattle, presided over by Judge John Chun. Judge Chun is also overseeing another case brought by the FTC against Amazon, this time alleging an illegal monopoly. This other case will go to trial in 2027.
Under the terms of the agreement reached on Thursday, Amazon has committed to obtaining explicit consent before any subscription or charge, and to simplifying cancellation procedures, under a protocol it must follow for ten years. Amazon has consistently disputed the allegations, saying it has improved its sign-up and cancellation processes. Last week, Judge Chun also found that Amazon had violated an online shopper protection law by collecting billing data from Prime subscribers before explaining the terms of use.
The FTC based its case in part on the ROSCA Act, which came into force in 2010 and prohibits charging for online services that are activated by default, without clearly stating the terms, without obtaining explicit customer consent, and without providing simple cancellation procedures.
(with AFP)
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Add designer to Jaden Smith’s considerable list of professions- along with actor, singer, and rapper- after the Californian creator dreamed up an impressive Dadaist display for his debut at Christian Louboutin.
Jaden Smith’s take on the world of Christian Louboutin – FashionNetwork.com
Evoking a whole plethora of influences from Greek mythology and the Great Paris Exhibitions to Dadaism and the great movement for Civil Rights, in an elaborate set in a disused warehouse in Montparnasse. Mount Parnassus, you will recall, was the home to nine muses in arts and sciences.
Two fine works of footwear even had Greek names: The Plato Loafer, a 2017 model with Swisscheese like holes, which Smith updates with the new Neo CL signature on a steel silver coin. And the Asclepius Sling- named after the ancient god of medicine- with the same emblematic coin detail and metallic hardware on the backstrap.
“I brought my personal interest on Greek mythology in as I thought it would resonate with people, as humans at the end of the day are all very similar. I’m combining my perspective of being an African American designer, linked to my more Dadaist thinking into the heritage of a French maison,” explained courteous 27-year-old.
Mythology meets luxury – FashionNetwork.com
Close by stood a Nam June Paik worthy mound of TVs, with video showing images of Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington, The Sphinx, and clips from Dadaist filmmaker Hans Richter.
“That art piece is about the overdose of information we experience. This revolution that we are in the midst of right now. And the fact that information is being thrown at us all the time. And the psychological effects of looking at 10 screens at the one time. While also drawing correlations between my ancestry and Christian’s ancestry, and the history of art,” said Smith, attired in a giant gangster jeans, an oversized parka and pearl encrusted beanie.
Another installation was a broken temple with fluted columns on which were perched Jaden’s new bags. Notably a series of humungous backpacks and biker satchels, some with a dozen exterior zippered pockets with gold lettering reading- coins, pills, keys, tools, phone, documents, phones, and chargers. Alongside a surrealist tote finished like a bucket of overflowing paint and a Dadaist style back made in a black and white photo of an urban madding crowd.
Creator Jaden Smith – FashionNetwork.com
The whole space was dubbed Christian Louboutin Men’s Exhibition, as a small group of models bathed, inevitably, in red light, circulated wearing the new footwear and bags. Large red fabric rolls made into benches allowed one to enjoy a large video montage, including Jaden as a Wagnerian hero posed in front of gothic castles. Which is where we spotted founder Christian Louboutin, in a video stirring a large vat of red paint, before symbolically handing over a paintbrush to Jaden.
“It’s about craftmanship, extreme luxury, and highest level of design. That’s what Christian Louboutin is all about,” said Smith, describing the brand’s DNA.
Eyebrows were raised when Christian appointed Jaden to the position of creative director, as Parisian designers with two decades long CVs gritted their teeth that an untrained talent got such a coveted position. However, judging by this display, Jaden Smith has the chops, talent, and grace to be very effective in this role.
One suspects the gods of style and time are probably rather pleased.
To coincide with Milan Fashion Week, the S|STYLE 2025- Denim Lab is setting up at Fondazione Sozzani for an edition devoted to the future of sustainable denim and water management in the textile industry. Led by the S|STYLE Sustainable Style platform, founded in 2020 by independent journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini, this initiative forms part of an ongoing programme of research and experimentation into responsible innovations applied to contemporary fashion.
Designers brought together for the S|STYLE 2025 – Denim Lab project – Denim Lab
The exhibition, open to the public on September 27 and 28, features a site-specific art installation by Mariano Franzetti, crafted from recycled and regenerative denim. Conceived as an immersive experience, it brings fashion design, technological innovation and artistic expression into dialogue.
Water: a central issue in fashion sustainability
Developed in collaboration with Kering‘s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), the Denim Lab brings together a selection of young international designers invited to create a denim look using low-impact materials and processes. They benefit from technical support and access to textiles developed with innovative technologies aimed at significantly reducing water consumption, chemical use, and the carbon footprint of denim production.
This edition places water at its core, an essential issue for a fabric whose production has traditionally demanded substantial volumes of water, from cotton cultivation through to dyeing and finishing. Denim therefore serves as an emblematic testing ground, both familiar and closely associated with the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.
Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants – Maison Gisèle
The fabrics were developed by PureDenim Srl, a specialist in low-impact dyeing techniques, while treatments and finishes were applied by Tonello Srl, a recognised leader in sustainable washing and finishing technologies. The selected designers, from Europe, Asia, and Africa, each offer a distinctive interpretation of denim, blending formal exploration, textile innovation and reflection on the contemporary uses of clothing.
Next has won the bidding race to take over the Russell & Bromley premium footwear business, ending almost a century-and-a-half of family ownership.
Russell & Bromley
Working with bidding partner and stock clearance specialist Retail Realisation, it’s set to takeover the 147-year-old retailer under a pre-pack administration deal.
Crucially, it means 33 of the company’s standalone stores/outlets and nine concessions (many of them in Fenwicks branches) are likely to eventually close.
The extent of the challenges Russell & Bromley faced can be seen from the fact that this is only a £2.5 million cash deal. Next is also paying £1.3 million for some of the retailer’s current stock with Retail Realisation handling the clearance of the rest.
Assuming the deal gets court approval on Wednesday afternoon, Next will own the intellectual property and just three of the stores.
Those stores are in London’s Chelsea and Mayfair, as well as the Bluewater shopping centre in Kent. Interestingly, that Bluewater store is just a stone’s throw away from the former House of Fraser branch that this year will reopen as a Next megastore.
The remaining stores and concessions will continue to trade for “as long as [they] can” as Interpath’s Will Wright and Chris Pole “assess options for them”. Russell & Bromley currently has around 440 employees.
A source close to another bidder, Auralis, told The Times it was disappointing that its offer, which aimed to safeguard jobs and stores, wasn’t given greater priority by those running the sale.
Russell & Bromley CEO Andrew Bromley called the sale decision a “difficult” one but insisted it’s “the best route to secure the future for the brand… we would like to thank our staff, suppliers, partners and customers for their support throughout our history”.
So what are Next’s plans now. That’s not clear. There had been a lot of attention focused on its likelihood of closing the store chain in the run-up to the sale but on Wednesday, Next said that it will “build on the legacy” of the business and “provide the operational stability and expertise to support Russell & Bromley’s next chapter”.
Next had also been reported to be eyeing a similar deal for LK Bennett, but Sky News reported that it has stepped away from this.
It remains one of the most acquisitive retailers on the UK high street, however, and in recent years has bought brands such as Cath Kidston, Joules, FatFace, Made and Seraphine. It also has deals to handle other key brands in the UK market such as Gap, Victoria’s Secret and Laura Ashley.