French eyewear label Solamor is gearing up for a long-anticipated relaunch, nearly four years after acclaimed designer Alain Miklitarian stepped in to take over the brand. Its first official collection under his creative direction will premiere this September at the Silmo Paris optics and eyewear trade show.

Miklitarian has teamed up with Ludovic Edouard Dader, owner of the Paris-based boutique Eyeshowroom, to lead the revival. The project has been years in the making, shaped by trial and error. Before finalizing a concept they were proud of, the duo went through several rounds of prototype designs that never made it to production. Every step was guided by a shared goal: to bring Solamor back without compromising its legacy of craftsmanship. “I’ve always been drawn to this brand,” Miklitarian said. “It’s been on my radar for years, but the timing never aligned—until Ludovic reached out and brought the opportunity to life.”

A first look coming this September

Miklitarian initially hesitated to join the project, but in 2021, he committed fully, bringing financial backing and technical know-how. The early prototypes fell short of expectations, delaying the launch. From the outset, he and Dader made one thing non-negotiable: they wouldn’t attach the Solamor name to anything less than exceptional. They partnered with Japanese manufacturer Nakanishi to uphold the brand’s luxury standards and selected titanium for the frames.

The result is a Made in Japan collection, with two models set to preview at Silmo Paris. The full lineup includes twelve styles—offering both standard and customizable options—and will launch by the end of the year.

While developing the line, Miklitarian referenced Solamor’s archives but intentionally introduced modern design details. Still, he steers clear of leaning too heavily on vintage material. “If you dig into the archives too much, it starts to feel like plagiarism,” he said. He aims to honor the brand’s legacy while keeping the aesthetic relevant and forward-looking.

Customization plays a big role in the relaunch. The Sport 1000, one of the standout styles, will be available at different price points — from €450 to €1,000, and up to €2,000 for the gold-plated 2027 edition. Prices vary depending on the frame and lens quality.

Lens options range from durable polycarbonate with classic finishes to high-performance polyurethane that mimics mineral glass. The more advanced lenses offer better brightness and polarized glare reduction. “Solamor isn’t a sports brand,” Miklitarian added, “but I’m using every tool available.”

Target: Made in France by 2027

Although Miklitarian stands by the quality of the Japan-made collection, he admits the experience came with a bittersweet edge. “I had to adapt to Japanese production methods, but there’s still an aftertaste — the brand was born in the Jura region, and it misses that French système D spirit that gives it its charm,” he said.

He and Dader now plan to bring production back to France by 2027 — a move that would also allow Miklitarian to reconnect with long-standing industrial partners. “It’s not just about flying the Made in France flag,” he said. “It’s about working with manufacturers with the expertise to craft exceptional products.”

This approach is part of a bigger strategy. Although Italy continues to lead the global eyewear market — driven by giants like EssilorLuxottica, which reported €26.5 billion in revenue in 2024 — Miklitarian believes French craftsmanship still sets itself apart. “Walk into a French factory and you’ll see it — the way metal is worked, how materials are shaped and finished. That’s the kind of expertise we still have,” he said.

Reviving Solamor wasn’t a spur-of-the-moment decision. Miklitarian had been contemplating it for years. Now in his 70s, he brings decades of experience at the crossroads of design and social impact — from launching his namesake label and co-creating Starck Eyes to founding Mikli Diffusion, an initiative that made art more accessible to the visually impaired.

With this relaunch, he’s breathing new life into one of France’s heritage brands. Founded in 1946 by Georges Lissac, Solamor became a fixture in both cinema and fashion, worn by icons like Jean-Luc Godard, Michèle Morgan and Jean-Paul Belmondo.

Crafting a premium identity

Solamor is positioning itself as a high-end contender in a competitive market dominated by fashion houses such as Dior, Saint Laurent and Chanel. But Miklitarian insists the brand will stand out not for its name, but for its craftsmanship.

He’s well aware of the challenges ahead. “Luxury brands are slowing down. With unstable economies and global tensions, any brand without a solid foundation could be at risk,” he said. To stay agile, Miklitarian and Dader plan to keep operations lean — outsourcing most tasks and limiting the core team to just five people.

For now, Solamor does not plan to sell directly to consumers. Instead, it will distribute through opticians and operate under a B2B model, working only with what Miklitarian calls “committed and willing” partners. If direct-to-consumer sales are introduced later through the brand’s website, he emphasizes the platform must provide value and support — not serve purely as a sales channel.

While no direct data is available for the brand itself, industry publication Acuité reported a 0.9% increase in optician sales for 2024 — a positive sign for Solamor’s distribution strategy.