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Acne Studios expands in France with redesigned historic HQ

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Nazia BIBI KEENOO

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September 12, 2025

Acne Studios acquires a major new showcase in Paris. Following the opening of its Stockholm headquarters dedicated to design in 2019, the Swedish brand, known for its avant-garde creations, is relocating to Paris, into a beautiful turn-of-the-century townhouse that once housed a pharmaceutical laboratory. The space, tucked away at the end of a courtyard at 48 rue des Petites-Écuries in the 10th arrondissement, brings together all the label’s departments, including part of the women’s and accessories design studios, in a décor blending traces of the past with contemporary works of art.

The showroom is housed in the former Gomenol laboratory. – Acne Studios

The design project was conceived by Jonny Johansson, co-founder and artistic director of Acne Studios, in collaboration with the Swedish architecture and design firm Halleroed, which has been collaborating with the brand for over ten years. “The space retains the raw grandeur of the laboratory and mansion built in the 1930s, enriched by a selection of contemporary artworks and furniture from Jonny Johansson’s close circle of collaborators,” the house said in a statement.

The mansion was built in 1926 by the Prevet family, the original owners of Gomenol. The laboratory, which occupied the premises until the 1980s, was renowned for its production of tinctures and plant-based oils, particularly an essential oil extracted from niaouli, Goménol. The former laboratory now features a spacious showroom on the ground floor, complete with raw concrete columns, an original vaulted glass ceiling, and white-painted walls, as well as a fitting room for VIP customers.

The idea was to harmoniously integrate these historic elements into the new layout. As Jonny Johansson explains: “Our main objective was to respect the history of the place while infusing it with a fresh, modern energy. The building itself has an incredible architectural presence. It’s steeped in history, and you can feel that when you walk through its rooms. We didn’t want to erase this effect.”

“On the contrary, we wanted to create a kind of dialogue between past and present, guided by the original structure. It’s important to preserve these traces of the past, not only out of respect, but also because it shapes the atmosphere and energy of the building and creates a basis for the kind of creative work we do,” he continued.

The entrance to the building, which serves as a reception area, retains meticulously restored gilded moldings, friezes, woodwork, and parquet flooring. Similarly, the canteen on the mezzanine floor features its original tiled floor. It features large, light-wood communal tables, which can also be used for meetings or work sessions. It adjoins a kitchen and leads to a sunken outdoor garden. The offices and design studio are on the first floor.

The entire building, which will accommodate around 80 employees, is adorned with designer furniture, including the garden seating and showroom sofas designed by British designer Max Lamb, a long-time collaborator of Acne Studios. The same goes for lighting artist Benoît Lalloz, who created a bespoke light installation. In addition, the courtyard features works of art, including Daniel Silver’s marble sculpture and candelabras by Sylvie Macmillan.

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Chanel to stage next cruise show in Biarritz on April 28

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December 10, 2025

Chanel will stage its next cruise show in Biarritz on April 28, 2026, the Paris based fashion house revealed on Wednesday.
 

Chanel – Courtesy

The brand will present what will be its Cruise 2026/27 collection with a runway show in Biarritz, an historic seaside resort on France’s Atlantic coast. 
 
“Biarritz plays a fundamental role in the history of Chanel,” commented Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Fashion, in a release.

“We are delighted that Matthieu Blazy has chosen this destination, so dear to the house, to present his first vision of the Cruise collection,” he added.
 
The news comes just one week after Chanel’s creative director Blazy staged a highly acclaimed Métiers d’Art show in a disused New York subway station in lower Manhattan.
 
In 1915, buoyed by the success of her boutique in Deauville, Gabrielle Chanel set up her first couture house in the Villa de Larralde, an elegant neo feudal mansion in Biarritz. It comprised a boutique and an atelier of some 60 petites mains, or skilled artisans, where she presented her collections. 
 
The free-spirited and sporty atmosphere of this iconic seaside resort in south-western France helped forge her vision of fashion and design, making Biarritz an essential chapter in the construction of her style, the house noted. 
 

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Landsec said outlet centres had “record-breaking” Black Friday

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December 10, 2025

​Outlet destinations have been among the most buoyant retail centres in recent years and on Wednesday, retail property giant Landsec provided yet more evidence of that trend.

Gunwharf Quays

It said it recorded 8.1% year-on-year sales growth across its outlets during Black Friday week, continuing a year of sustained growth across its outlet portfolio, which also reported a record-breaking year in 2024.

Its outlet trio, Gunwharf Quays, Braintree Village and Clarks Village, generated a combined spend of £16.3 million across the week, with footfall up 8.6% year on year, “demonstrating the continued strength of in-person retail during key calendar moments”. But it also demonstrated just how much consumers are focused on discounts given that they visited destinations already offering discounts for the even greater markdowns available during that week.

Landsec said this “builds on a consistently strong trading performance across the outlet portfolio and follows a  record-breaking year for spend across major Landsec retail destinations during the last financial year”.

Braintree Village enjoyed a record-breaking week, with Saturday seeing its highest single day of footfall since the pandemic. Clarks Village recorded its highest-ever sales day. And Gunwharf Quays saw its biggest-ever sales week, building on last year’s record. The outlet also recorded its highest-ever single-day revenue and footfall up 9.8% year on year.

The landlord added that individual store success was strong, with 25 brands achieving record sales weeks at Gunwharf Quays alone, while a further nine brands set new records on Saturday.

And what were consumers buying? Across the outlet portfolio, shoppers spent the most on health & beauty (+46% week on week), gifts, cards, toys and books (+43%), and accessories (+40%). These categories have continued to show strong momentum in 2025 across Landsec’s outlet destinations.

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Ann Summers stabilises after key launches, but still loss-making

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December 10, 2025

Ann Summers has filed its accounts to the end of June 2025 and it’s certainly encouraging to see that the lingerie specialist — which has struggled in recent periods — looks to be heading towards a recovery despite still posting losses.

Knickerbox.com

The company said that its 2024/25 financial year was one of “resilience and strategic adaptation”. 

Turnover was “stable”, although it actually increased slightly but not enough to make up for the impact of inflation. It rose to £93.4 million from £93 million, although the cost of sales also edged up slightly.

The business remained loss-making, as mentioned, but the operating loss before tax and exceptional expenses narrowed to £5 million from £9.8 million a year earlier. The loss on ordinary activities before tax, as well as the net loss, showed an even greater decline at £3 million compared to £13 million12 months before. 

So what happened in the 12-month period? Against the backdrop of persistent economic uncertainty, rising inflation and the ongoing cost of living crisis, Ann Summers said it managed to overcome major retail headwinds.

Trading conditions stayed tough with discretionary spend under pressure but it optimised its store estate while maintaining a strong presence physically with 75 locations. It also continued its expansion through third-party partnerships including its collaboration with LIWA, which has opened new opportunities in the Middle East

Its web channel remained a key part of its omnichannel strategy for both the UK and abroad. But during the year it made the strategic decision to close Connect, its direct selling channel. That ceased trading after the financial year ended, in October 2025.

A milestone was the launch of knickerbox.com in July 2024, so that came right at the start of the financial year in question. That brand is well known so should be a source of future growth. 

Alongside the launch it also introduced KBX, its new in-house brand that claims to offer “stylish, effortlessly sexy, everyday lingerie”. The company said this strategic move allows it to connect with the border audience and strengthen its digital presence.

The company hasn’t posted a profit since the year to June 2021 and its losses have added up to £40 million since then. But this latest set of numbers, along with the new developments and strategic closures, suggests that the picture could change soon.

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