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A summer roundup of news from the beauty industry: amidst flagging results and economic turbulence

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August 27, 2025

As summer draws to a close, it’s time to take stock for global beauty players. The 2025 summer season has been marked by mixed financial publications, against a backdrop of slowing consumer spending, markets that have become unpredictable and, above all, the forthcoming rise in customs duties in the United States.

While some companies fared better than others, all had to contend with a more complex economic reality. Here’s a look at the main players in the sector: France’s L’Oréal and the Americans, Coty and Estée Lauder.

Global beauty players see their performance disrupted by market uncertainty – Shutterstock

Coty in transition, between falling sales and possible asset disposals

The American group Coty saw its sales fall by 4% in its fiscal year ending June 30, 2025, for net sales of $5.89 billion (€5.07 billion). Demand remains weak, particularly in North America, and retailers are clearing their inventories rather than placing new orders. The group has indicated that it is going through a “transition year” and is counting on a return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2026.

Faced with this tense economic situation, Coty has launched a new phase of transformation called All-in to Win, which involves restructuring around 700 jobs. At the same time, market speculation has been circulating since June about a possible sale of assets, notably in luxury and consumer cosmetics. France’s Interparfums may be in the running.

Estée Lauder deepens losses and accelerates restructuring

For the other American giant, Estée Lauder, the results published at the end of August were particularly alarming. The group recorded a net loss of $546 million in the fourth quarter of its 2025 fiscal year, a figure almost double that of last year. This underperformance is largely due to the implementation of a restructuring plan announced in February, the total cost of which is estimated at between $1.2 and $1.6 billion. In all, between 5,800 and 7,000 jobs will be eliminated worldwide.

The general decline in sales, down 8% for the full year to $14.3 billion (€12.3 billion), affected all segments except perfume, which remained stable. The group was particularly hard hit by the collapse of travel retail sales, which fell by 28%.

Despite this, Estée Lauder remains hopeful of a rebound as early as 2026, betting on a gradual recovery, selective price increases, and double-digit growth in e-commerce. However, management anticipates a negative impact of around $100 million from U.S. tariffs in the current financial year.

L’Oréal forges ahead, buoyed by North America

In this tense climate, L’Oréal is doing rather well. At the end of July, the French group published sales up 1.6% to 22.47 billion euros for the first half of 2025, with net income up 1% excluding exceptional items. The United States is positioned as the main contributor to this growth, despite the introduction of new customs duties of up to 15% on cosmetics imported from Europe.

For the moment, management is downplaying the impact of these tariffs, describing the situation as “manageable”. L’Oréal already manufactures half of its products sold in North America in its four local plants, has built up strategic stocks, notably for its luxury and fragrance ranges, and is planning moderate price adjustments.

The group is also continuing to invest and strengthen its position, with the acquisition announced in June of the Color Wow brand, specialized in hair care products. CEO Nicolas Hieronimus says he is “ambitious” for the second half-year, while acknowledging an uncertain economic climate for both businesses and consumers.

While performances are mixed, global beauty players all share one observation: the market has become more volatile, purchasing behavior more unpredictable, and economic pressures increasingly difficult to circumvent.

Inventory adjustments, restructuring, industrial relocation, price increases, or asset disposals… the strategies differ, but all aim to maintain balance in an environment that has become highly unstable.

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Cosmetics giant Unilever finalises business demerger

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December 5, 2025

The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.

Reuters

Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.

The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.

Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.

“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.

Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
 

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Burberry elevates two SVPs to supply chain and customer exec roles

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December 5, 2025

Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.

Burberry – Spring-Summer2026 – Womenswear – Royaume-Uni – Londres – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm. 

In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.

Matteo Calonaci - Burberry
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry

Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.

Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.

JohnattanLeon - Burberry
JohnattanLeon – Burberry

Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.

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Puneet Gupta steps into fine jewellery

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December 5, 2025

Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.

Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta

 
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”

The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.

An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta

 
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.

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