Via platforms such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress, ultra-fast fashion (also known as ultra-express fashion) accounted for 19% of French online fashion purchases by volume and 8% by value over the first three quarters. Across total sales, ultra-low-cost clothing now represents 6% of volumes and 2% by value.

These findings from the Institut Français de la Mode’s Economic Observatory were shared on November 27 at Fashion Reboot. This year, the IFM’s annual event took place amid controversy over a stand-off between Chinese ultra-low-cost fashion players on the one hand, and federations, retailers, and ministries on the other.

“The best news I can announce today is that 62% of consumers did not buy ultra-fast fashion,” said Gildas Minvielle, director of the Observatoire économique, addressing industry representatives gathered at 3 Mazarium (Paris VIe), to whom he said he expected sales to stagnate in 2026.

The specialist notes that ultra-fast fashion has now gained particular traction among young people and women. No fewer than 56% of women aged 16–24 have bought from these platforms, making this the most affected age group, ahead of 25–34-year-olds (54%) and 35–44-year-olds (48%).

All genders, ages and socio-professional groups

Male consumers are not far behind, with 36% of 16–24-year-old men having purchased from these platforms. It is especially among men aged 25–44 that ultra-fast fashion finds the most customers, with 43% having already placed an order.

The IFM also notes that the appeal of ultra-fast fashion does not fade with age. Indeed, 31% of 55–64-year-olds, both men and women, report having placed orders on low-cost sites.

The study further shows that the success of these offers extends beyond lower-income groups. “It is very surprising to see that it is not only the CSP [low- to mid- income consumers, ed]- who shop on these Chinese sites: you also have a very significant share of CSP+ [higher earning, ed] consumers buying on these platforms,” notes Gildas Minvielle.

What are their motivations?

When buying ultra-fast fashion, price remains the primary motivation for women (80%) and men (76%). The average purchase price on Shein and Temu is €9, around a third of the price charged by mid-market retailers and brands.

Customers also cite product diversity (66% and 60%) and broad size availability (44% and 41%). Women and men likewise agree on the platforms’ presentation and attractive design (14% and 15%).

On other criteria, however, perceptions are more mixed. For example, only 34% of men cite the trends on offer as a motivating factor, compared with 40% of women. In addition, 32% of men mention a “curiosity factor”, compared with 21% of female consumers. Another point of difference is gamification, which makes the shopping experience more playful, favoured by 14% of men compared with 7% of women.

Fast fashion, second-hand, and market pauperisation

With a 2% market share by value, ultra-fast fashion adds to another disruptor of the market for new clothing: second-hand, which now captures 11% of the market by value, and even 17.4% among 18–24-year-olds. Second-hand now accounts for 30% of online fashion purchases.

As with Shein and Temu, second-hand fashion has an impact on price perception. “Second-hand consumers tell us that since they’ve started buying second-hand, they find new products excessively expensive,” explains Gildas Minvielle, who warns of strong consumer mistrust towards prices, and towards fashion in general, particularly linked to a perceived decline in quality over the past three decades.

“INSEE figures show that over 30 years, clothing prices have been fairly stable,” points out Gildas Minvielle. “But ultra-fast fashion, through its downward pressure on prices, could impose a new paradigm leading to the pauperisation of the market and a decline in average prices. This would be an unprecedented and damaging paradigm for the sector. The challenge for brands will therefore be to win back consumers and restore meaning to prices.”