Kering‘s new CEO Luca De Meo plans to set up a new unit to scout for up-and-coming brands to invest in, documents seen by Reuters show, as he seeks to tap new revenue streams and trim the group’s reliance on struggling Gucci.
Kering seeks new investment horizons – Reuters
The move would see the unit, named “House of Dreams”, given long-term capital to take stakes in or partner with emerging businesses, as wealthy shoppers have increasingly turned their backs on traditional luxury brands.
The plan, shared in a memo with senior staff in October and previously unreported, gives insight into de Meo’s wider strategy to revamp the $20 billion luxury conglomerate ahead of a much-awaited investor presentation next spring. The French group, controlled by the billionaire Pinault family, in October registered the “House of Dreams” trademark in France, the website of the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) shows.
In the memo, De Meo cited areas such as experiential tech, Indian craftsmanship, and “culture-led” Chinese luxury as playing fields for the new unit. He didn’t say how much it might invest.
Kering said in a statement that its “number one priority” was to boost growth by strengthening its existing brands, adding: “At the same time, Kering is preparing for all the possible futures of luxury, whether new business models, new services, or new geographies.” The group added that the elements that have been shared with staff were “preliminary working assumptions” that are still evolving ahead of its strategy presentation next year.
Kering shares fell by 3.5% on Wednesday after Reuters reported that de Meo, who took over in September, had set a three-year timeline to get back to “top financial performance.” He has laid out plans to bring down what he called an “over-dependency” on Gucci, citing a shortened version of a strategy memo.
In a more detailed version of the memo seen by Reuters, de Meo called the House of Dreams unit a “central proposal” of his thinking. De Meo also said he looked to “de-risk” exposure to Gucci and “rebalance” the weight of fashion in Kering’s profits in the long term. Fixing Gucci, which currently accounts for roughly half of Kering’s operating profit, down from two-thirds in 2022, is cited as a priority in the memo.
De Meo said in the memo that the new investment arm- which has echoes of moves by rival luxury house LVMH and beauty giant L’Oreal– would look to take minority or majority stakes for the long term and leverage Kering’s access to wealthy shoppers.
The move is also reminiscent of de Meo’s restructuring of Renault announced in 2021, when the Italian, then CEO of the French carmaker, created “Mobilize,” a new division specifically working on tech innovation and alternative mobility concepts.
The push to scale up promising brands in-house also reflects limited room for acquisitions due to Kering’s high debt loads. In the memo, de Meo said the new unit should focus on experiential tech and regional luxury models during an initial pilot phase of 90 days, with a seed fund and dedicated team. It wasn’t clear when the division would start operating.
European luxury brands saw their client base shrink after years of aggressive price hikes, though the over $400 billion global market is expected to rebound next year after a flat 2025, according to a Bain study published this week.
Meanwhile, emerging niche companies from buzzy Korean beauty brands to Chinese jewellers have seen stellar growth. More and more clients have also turned to experiences like wellness and fine dining instead of handbags and dresses.
Kering’s shares have rallied over 70% since de Meo was announced as the firm’s new CEO in June, reaching their highest level since July 2024.
The demerger of Unilever‘s ice cream division, to be named ‘The Magnum Ice Cream Company,’ which had been delayed in recent months by the US government shutdown, will finally go ahead on Saturday, the British group announced.
Reuters
Unilever said in a statement on Friday that the admission of the new entity’s shares to listing and trading in Amsterdam, London, and New York, as well as the commencement of trading… is expected to take place on Monday, December 8.
The longest federal government shutdown in US history, from October 1 to November 12, fully or partially affected many parts of the federal government, including the securities regulator, after weeks without an agreement between Donald Trump‘s Republicans and the Democratic opposition.
Unilever, which had previously aimed to complete the demerger by mid-November, warned in October that the US securities regulator (SEC) was “not in a position to declare effective” the registration of the new company’s shares. However, the group said it was “determined to implement in 2025” the separation of a division that also includes the Ben & Jerry’s and Cornetto brands, and which will have its primary listing in Amsterdam.
“The registration statement” for the shares in the US “became effective on Thursday, December 4,” Unilever said in its statement. Known for Dove soaps, Axe deodorants and Knorr soups, the group reported a slight decline in third-quarter sales at the end of October, but beat market expectations.
Under pressure from investors, including the activist fund Trian of US billionaire Nelson Peltz, to improve performance, the group last year unveiled a strategic plan to focus on 30 power brands. It then announced the demerger of its ice cream division and, to boost margins, launched a cost-saving plan involving 7,500 job cuts, nearly 6% of the workforce. Unilever’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were steady on Friday shortly after the market opened, at 4,429 pence.
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Burberry has named a new chief operating and supply chain officer as well as a new chief customer officer. They’re both key roles at the recovering luxury giant and both are being promoted from within.
Matteo Calonaci becomes chief operating and supply chain officer, moving from his role as senior vice-president of strategy and transformation at the firm.
In his new role, he’ll be oversee supply chain and planning, strategy and transformation, and data and analytics. He succeeds Klaus Bierbrauer, who’s currently Burberry supply chain and industrial officer. Bierbrauer will be leaving the company following its winter show and a transition period.
Matteo Calonaci – Burberry
Meanwhile, Johnattan Leon steps up as chief customer officer. He’s currently currently Burberry’s senior vice-president of commercial and chief of staff. In his new role he’ll be leading Burberry’s customer, client engagement, customer service and retail excellence teams, while also overseeing its digital, outlet and commercial operations.
Both Calonaci and Leon will join the executive committee, reporting to Company CEO Joshua Schulman.
JohnattanLeon – Burberry
Schulman said of the two execs that the appointments “reflect the exceptional talent and leadership we have at Burberry. Both Matteo and Johnattan have been instrumental in strengthening our focus on executional excellence and elevating our customer experience. Their deep understanding of our business, our people, and our customers gives me full confidence that their leadership will help drive [our strategy] Burberry Forward”.
Traditional and occasion wear designer Puneet Gupta has stepped into the world of fine jewellery with the launch of ‘Deco Luméaura,’ a collection designed to blend heritage and contemporary aesthetics while taking inspiration from the dramatic landscapes of Ladakh.
Hints of Ladakh’s heritage can be seen in this sculptural evening bag – Puneet Gupta
“For me, Deco Luméaura is an exploration of transformation- of material, of story, of self,” said Puneet Gupta in a press release. “True luxury isn’t perfect; it is intentional. Every piece is crafted to be lived with and passed on.”
The jewellery collection features cocktail rings, bangles, chokers, necklaces, and statement evening bags made in recycled brass and finished with 24 carat gold. The stones used have been kept natural to highlight their imperfect and unique forms and each piece in the collection has been hammered, polished, and engraved by hand.
An eclectic mix of jewels from the collection – Puneet Gupta
Designed to function as wearable art pieces, the colourful jewellery echoes the geometry of Art Deco while incorporating distinctly South Asian imagery such as camels, butterflies, and tassels. Gupta divides his time between his stores in Hyderabad and Delhi and aims to bring Indian artistry to a global audience while crafting a dialogue between designer and artisan.