Creative Director Olivier Rousteing has left Balmain, the Paris-based house announced Tuesday, bringing an end to the French deisgner’s 14-year-tenure at the house.
Rousteing took up his position as Creative Director of the fashion house in April 2011 and staged a series of critically acclaimed collections and shows years, where “his vision and creative genius propelled Balmain to unprecedented heights,” the house said in a release.
Rousteing has left Balmain after 14 years as creative director – Francesca Beltran
“I am deeply proud of everything I have accomplished, and infinitely grateful to my exceptional team at Balmain, my chosen family, in a place that has been my home for the past 14 years. I thank Mr. Rachid and Matteo for their unwavering trust and for offering me this extraordinary opportunity. As I look ahead to the future and the next chapter of my creative journey, I will always cherish this special time,” said Rousteing in the release.
Known for his blend of haute couture silhouettes, rock n roll attitude and bravura staging, Rousteing was a celebrated figure in Paris fashion.
Balmain did not name a successor to Rousteing, but added that a “new creative organization of the house will be announced at a needed moment.”
In the official statement: Mr. Rachid Mohamed Rachid, CEO of Mayhoola and Chairman of Balmain, said: “I extend my sincere thanks to Olivier Rousteing for his extraordinary contribution to Balmain. His visionary leadership has not only redefined the boundaries of fashion, but has also inspired an entire generation with his bold creativity, unwavering authenticity, and commitment to inclusivity. We are immensely proud of everything that has been achieved under his leadership and look forward to the next chapter of his journey, which he will pursue with the same passion and excellence.”
While CEO Matteo Sgarbossa, also said: “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Olivier for writing such an important chapter in the history of the House. His contribution and passion over the years will leave an indelible mark on the history of fashion.”
Born in Bordeaux to a Somalian mother and Ethiopian father, Rousteing was abandoned in an orphanage as a child, later being adopted by a bourgeois family in Bordeaux. A serious student, Rousteing studied at Esmod art college in Bordeaux, before moving to Florence, where he joined Robert Cavalli in the design studio.
In 2009, he began working at Balmain as director of the women’s wear design studio under Christophe Decarnin. By 2011, he had succeeded Decarnin, introducing a sexy rock and roll attitude and razor sharp tailoring – going on to dress stars like Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé, Rihanna and Jennifer Lopez. He also created costumes for the Opera national in Paris; staged a solo haute couture show for the brand and in 2022 presented a much-admired collection as a guest designer for the house of Jean-Paul Gaultier.
The house of Balmain was founded in 1945 by Pierre Balmain, embodying from the beginning an innovative look, the “New French Style.”
Alongside its ready-to-wear and accessory collections for women and men, the house appeals to an international audience with Balmain Beauty, inspired by the brand’s iconic fragrances from the 1940s and 1950s, as well as its iconic eyewear.
Balmain is controlled by Mayhoola, a luxury holding company owned by the Qatari royal family that also owns Valentino in Rome.
Add designer to Jaden Smith’s considerable list of professions- along with actor, singer, and rapper- after the Californian creator dreamed up an impressive Dadaist display for his debut at Christian Louboutin.
Jaden Smith’s take on the world of Christian Louboutin – FashionNetwork.com
Evoking a whole plethora of influences from Greek mythology and the Great Paris Exhibitions to Dadaism and the great movement for Civil Rights, in an elaborate set in a disused warehouse in Montparnasse. Mount Parnassus, you will recall, was the home to nine muses in arts and sciences.
Two fine works of footwear even had Greek names: The Plato Loafer, a 2017 model with Swisscheese like holes, which Smith updates with the new Neo CL signature on a steel silver coin. And the Asclepius Sling- named after the ancient god of medicine- with the same emblematic coin detail and metallic hardware on the backstrap.
“I brought my personal interest on Greek mythology in as I thought it would resonate with people, as humans at the end of the day are all very similar. I’m combining my perspective of being an African American designer, linked to my more Dadaist thinking into the heritage of a French maison,” explained courteous 27-year-old.
Mythology meets luxury – FashionNetwork.com
Close by stood a Nam June Paik worthy mound of TVs, with video showing images of Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington, The Sphinx, and clips from Dadaist filmmaker Hans Richter.
“That art piece is about the overdose of information we experience. This revolution that we are in the midst of right now. And the fact that information is being thrown at us all the time. And the psychological effects of looking at 10 screens at the one time. While also drawing correlations between my ancestry and Christian’s ancestry, and the history of art,” said Smith, attired in a giant gangster jeans, an oversized parka and pearl encrusted beanie.
Another installation was a broken temple with fluted columns on which were perched Jaden’s new bags. Notably a series of humungous backpacks and biker satchels, some with a dozen exterior zippered pockets with gold lettering reading- coins, pills, keys, tools, phone, documents, phones, and chargers. Alongside a surrealist tote finished like a bucket of overflowing paint and a Dadaist style back made in a black and white photo of an urban madding crowd.
Creator Jaden Smith – FashionNetwork.com
The whole space was dubbed Christian Louboutin Men’s Exhibition, as a small group of models bathed, inevitably, in red light, circulated wearing the new footwear and bags. Large red fabric rolls made into benches allowed one to enjoy a large video montage, including Jaden as a Wagnerian hero posed in front of gothic castles. Which is where we spotted founder Christian Louboutin, in a video stirring a large vat of red paint, before symbolically handing over a paintbrush to Jaden.
“It’s about craftmanship, extreme luxury, and highest level of design. That’s what Christian Louboutin is all about,” said Smith, describing the brand’s DNA.
Eyebrows were raised when Christian appointed Jaden to the position of creative director, as Parisian designers with two decades long CVs gritted their teeth that an untrained talent got such a coveted position. However, judging by this display, Jaden Smith has the chops, talent, and grace to be very effective in this role.
One suspects the gods of style and time are probably rather pleased.
To coincide with Milan Fashion Week, the S|STYLE 2025- Denim Lab is setting up at Fondazione Sozzani for an edition devoted to the future of sustainable denim and water management in the textile industry. Led by the S|STYLE Sustainable Style platform, founded in 2020 by independent journalist and curator Giorgia Cantarini, this initiative forms part of an ongoing programme of research and experimentation into responsible innovations applied to contemporary fashion.
Designers brought together for the S|STYLE 2025 – Denim Lab project – Denim Lab
The exhibition, open to the public on September 27 and 28, features a site-specific art installation by Mariano Franzetti, crafted from recycled and regenerative denim. Conceived as an immersive experience, it brings fashion design, technological innovation and artistic expression into dialogue.
Water: a central issue in fashion sustainability
Developed in collaboration with Kering‘s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), the Denim Lab brings together a selection of young international designers invited to create a denim look using low-impact materials and processes. They benefit from technical support and access to textiles developed with innovative technologies aimed at significantly reducing water consumption, chemical use, and the carbon footprint of denim production.
This edition places water at its core, an essential issue for a fabric whose production has traditionally demanded substantial volumes of water, from cotton cultivation through to dyeing and finishing. Denim therefore serves as an emblematic testing ground, both familiar and closely associated with the environmental challenges facing the fashion industry.
Outfit created for the Denim Lab by designer Gisèle Ntsama, one of the participants – Maison Gisèle
The fabrics were developed by PureDenim Srl, a specialist in low-impact dyeing techniques, while treatments and finishes were applied by Tonello Srl, a recognised leader in sustainable washing and finishing technologies. The selected designers, from Europe, Asia, and Africa, each offer a distinctive interpretation of denim, blending formal exploration, textile innovation and reflection on the contemporary uses of clothing.
Next has won the bidding race to take over the Russell & Bromley premium footwear business, ending almost a century-and-a-half of family ownership.
Russell & Bromley
Working with bidding partner and stock clearance specialist Retail Realisation, it’s set to takeover the 147-year-old retailer under a pre-pack administration deal.
Crucially, it means 33 of the company’s standalone stores/outlets and nine concessions (many of them in Fenwicks branches) are likely to eventually close.
The extent of the challenges Russell & Bromley faced can be seen from the fact that this is only a £2.5 million cash deal. Next is also paying £1.3 million for some of the retailer’s current stock with Retail Realisation handling the clearance of the rest.
Assuming the deal gets court approval on Wednesday afternoon, Next will own the intellectual property and just three of the stores.
Those stores are in London’s Chelsea and Mayfair, as well as the Bluewater shopping centre in Kent. Interestingly, that Bluewater store is just a stone’s throw away from the former House of Fraser branch that this year will reopen as a Next megastore.
The remaining stores and concessions will continue to trade for “as long as [they] can” as Interpath’s Will Wright and Chris Pole “assess options for them”. Russell & Bromley currently has around 440 employees.
A source close to another bidder, Auralis, told The Times it was disappointing that its offer, which aimed to safeguard jobs and stores, wasn’t given greater priority by those running the sale.
Russell & Bromley CEO Andrew Bromley called the sale decision a “difficult” one but insisted it’s “the best route to secure the future for the brand… we would like to thank our staff, suppliers, partners and customers for their support throughout our history”.
So what are Next’s plans now. That’s not clear. There had been a lot of attention focused on its likelihood of closing the store chain in the run-up to the sale but on Wednesday, Next said that it will “build on the legacy” of the business and “provide the operational stability and expertise to support Russell & Bromley’s next chapter”.
Next had also been reported to be eyeing a similar deal for LK Bennett, but Sky News reported that it has stepped away from this.
It remains one of the most acquisitive retailers on the UK high street, however, and in recent years has bought brands such as Cath Kidston, Joules, FatFace, Made and Seraphine. It also has deals to handle other key brands in the UK market such as Gap, Victoria’s Secret and Laura Ashley.