Despite a general slowdown in the fashion and luxury sectors, mainly due to the global geopolitical situation, the Florentine trade fair Pitti Uomo is defying the downturn and reaffirming its role as the leading event for menswear. The Pitti Immagine fair, focused entirely on menswear, will bring the Autumn/Winter 2026/27 collections of more than 700 brands to the Fortezza da Basso, 44% of which are from abroad. A packed calendar of events will accompany the 109th edition of the Florentine showcase, with fashion shows by Soshiotsuki, Hed Mayner, and Shinyakozuka, alongside the return or debut of 43 brands at the fair.
A moment from the presentation of the fair, with Antonio Cristaudo, commercial director of Pitti Immagine, Antonio De Matteis and Raffaello Napoleone – E.P. – FashionNetwork.com
From January 13 to 16 2026, more than 700 brands will present their creations to a community comprising buyers from the most prestigious department stores, independent boutiques, research-driven retailers, concept stores (thanks to an intensive hosted buyers programme), and journalists from the international press.
The January show’s Motion theme and site-specific installation “Ancient/New Site” by French architect and sculptor Marc Leschelier will welcome visitors in the square in front of the Central Pavilion. The trade show has confirmed five sections — Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out — ranging from classic to informal, via research and the outdoors. There will also be many new elements along the exhibition itinerary.
Prominent among them is HiBeauty, a special space dedicated exclusively to the world of niche perfumery. Located within the Futuro Maschile itinerary, it will host a selection of 10 independent brands, representative of a new wave that spans Europe and reaches as far as Asia. HiBeauty will feature an immersive set-up that exemplifies the cross-pollination between genres that clothing and concept stores around the world are increasingly exploring, and it stems from the experience of Fragranze, Pitti Immagine’s event dedicated to artistic perfumery and skincare research, “which in September recorded a 34% increase in buyers from all over the world,” recalled Antonio Cristaudo, Pitti Immagine’s commercial director.
“We will start with a very precise initial selection of 10 independent European and Asian skincare and fragrance brands with strong international distribution, on the Attico level of the Central Pavilion, in the Futuro Maschile area,” said Cristaudo. “[It is] an area set to grow, bringing beauty back to Pitti Uomo after the sporadic presence of a few beauty companies pre-Covid. Perhaps it was too early; now the time is ripe.”
“The Pitti team is very grateful to President De Matteis, who brings so much to the event thanks also to his travelling around the world, spotting innovations, trends and styles ahead of time,” continued Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. “Abroad, we are carrying out various promotional programmes. We want to highlight creative resources, also because it is in the new that we find valuable momentum. We will stage eight more events around the world, after London yesterday and Milan today,” he revealed. “In addition, we are enhancing our digital communication to transmit to our entire global community (more than 100,000 on our mailing list) everything we do, our programmes, and more. The Pitti Motion theme was chosen precisely because movement is a necessary condition. When the body meets fashion, movement becomes style, identity, and narrative.”
Antonio De Matteis, President of Pitti Immagine, said, “We have now reached 109 editions of Pitti: a demonstration of how we have been at the centre of fashion worldwide for a very long time. The figures are positive: almost 740 exhibitors, 44% from abroad. The Motion theme also shows how our company is always on the move,” he recalled. “One of the new features will be the inclusion of the beauty area in January. We continue collaborations with Korea, Japan, and China: Pitti is one of the very few entities, perhaps the only one globally, with the ability to attract such an important number of buyers linked to the universe of menswear and to appeal to the entire world. I urge everyone to be positive.”
There are 43 new names or returns to the Tuscan international menswear showcase. These include Save the Duck, Berwich, Bogner, Final Draft, Gabriel Stunz, Glenover, Hestra, Hippy Realisti, Inis Meáin Ireland, Jott, Mackie, Mallet, Santha, Snow Peak, Wyeth, Bareen, Alpe Piano, and Taakk.
Among the highlights, WP Lavori in Corso will bring to the Fortezza the A/W 2026 collections of Baracuta, Barbour, BD Baggies, Spiewak, Filson, Universal Overall, and Blundstone, and, above all, the official launch of the Baracuta womenswear collection and a series of collaborations with leading names from the Japanese creative scene, as well as the Filson–Baracuta capsule, combining British heritage and outdoor functionality. Then, Roy Roger’s and Kappa present, in collaboration, a ski suit that fuses denim DNA with technical innovation.
E.P. – FashionNetwork.com
Schneiders Salzburg, Austria’s historic Loden brand, founded 80 years ago, returns to Pitti Uomo on the eve of a relaunch on the global market, driven by its new owner, the Biella entrepreneur Giovanni Schneider (yes, that is his name — a curious coincidence, ed.). In Florence, the new Autumn/Winter 2026/27 collection will be presented which, under the creative direction of Viviana Volpicella, combines tradition and innovation, starting from the celebrated Loden and developing Shetland garments with check, tartan, and herringbone patterns.
Then, there is the Japanese sports giant Asics, which comes to the fair with a new product, Asics Walking, reinterpreting the concept of the classic shoe by pairing it with a technical sole, and the return to Pitti Uomo of Born to Standout, a small Korean brand acquired by L’Oréal, with a major presence. Meanwhile, the Dolce & Gabbana maison will strongly support Fabi, a storied Italian brand it acquired a few months ago, having so far used its factory to produce accessories. There is also news for Final Draft, a new distribution line and project launching right from Florence, and Sebago, a very much on-trend brand that is continuing to grow, now offering a total look and increasingly unisex collections.
Also arriving from Rio de Janeiro is the beachwear brand Frescobol Carioca, named after the famous beach game, introducing denim and evolving its knitwear and outerwear. Gabriel Stunz, a Franco-German designer with experience in iconic fashion houses, after being among the standouts of Paris Fashion Week, debuts at Pitti Uomo 109 with his eponymous brand, founded in 2011, presenting a collection dedicated to Manon Lescaut. Histores, the association that brings together 45 multi-brand retailers, returns to the Fortezza da Basso, consolidating its partnership with Pitti Immagine. On Tuesday, January 13, in the Limonaia of Villa Vittoria, it will take centre stage at an event created together with Pitti, and during the days of the fair at the Fortezza a capsule with Flower Mountain and a preview of other collaborations will be presented. Finally, the Danish brand Ecco will launch a preview of the Ecco.Kollektive collection, in collaboration with designer Craig Green and with the brand White Mountaineering.
Further news concerns Futuro Maschile, the section that — through research brands and international collaborations — showcases the latest in contemporary menswear: in January it will present itself in a new guise, designed by the architects of DWA – Design Studio, a multidisciplinary practice based in Milan, who have redesigned the spaces of the Attico level to highlight the section’s innovative scope.
The special events of Pitti Uomo 109 will first of all concern Guest Designer Soshi Otsuki, designer of the Japanese brand that bears his name. For the occasion, the winner of the LVMH Prize 2025 will present his unique style in a fashion show-event in Florence, Made in Japan filtered through the lens of Made in Italy, fusing tradition with modern sartorial art. The other guest designer is Hed Mayner, founder and creative director of the eponymous brand, who, with his conceptual, almost architectural approach, in open dialogue with the fluidity of the present, will stage a défilé in Florence in his unmistakable style. In addition, Shinyakozuka, a Tokyo-based designer known for his thoughtful approach to form and proportion, with highly original silhouettes often hand-painted or finished by the designer himself, will star in the fair’s Special Event: a fashion show in collaboration with Japan Fashion Week Organization. Shinyakozuka will also have an exhibition space within the Futuro Maschile section.
Two events, meanwhile, have been realised in direct collaboration with Pitti Immagine: Consinee, a Chinese leader in cashmere fibres and precious yarns, will appear with the site-specific installation “Echoes of Craft” curated by Sara Sozzani Maino together with Georgian designer Galib Gassanoff. Sebiro Sampo, a Made in Japan project launched by a group of six leading Japanese menswear companies, will stage in Florence the first promenade show in Europe, in collaboration with Vitale Barberis Canonico. The expression Sebiro Sampo comes from the union of the words suit and walk. Starting from the Fortezza da Basso, a sort of spontaneous parade of men who embody masculine elegance will take shape and — through the streets of the historic centre of Florence — bring their own vision of tailoring.
E.P. – FashionNetwork.com
In addition, the Scandinavian Manifesto area, coordinated by CIFF, returns to Pitti Uomo, bringing the best of Nordic menswear to the Fortezza. It is the seventh edition for J∞Quality, the initiative promoting quality Japanese apparel curated by the Japan Apparel and Fashion Industry Association (JAFIC), with special consultancy from Hirofumi Kurino and art direction by Masato Koyama of HEUGN. Also returning, in the Hall of Nations, is the Japan Leather Showroom project led by the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry, which promotes sustainable production in Japan’s leather goods industry. In addition, for the second time CODE Korea will be at the Fortezza da Basso, with its special spotlight on contemporary creativity in fashion, design and cultural experiences from South Korea, born out of the collaboration between Pitti Immagine and the Korea Creative Content Agency (KOCCA), while contemporary Chinese menswear returns to the Fortezza da Basso for the fourth time thanks to China Wave, a special area at Costruzioni Lorenesi resulting from the partnership between Pitti Uomo and the China National Garment Association.
Thanks to the collaboration with Promas French Menswear Fédération and DEFI, the organisation for the development of French menswear, which launched Promas LIST, a platform for direct dialogue between buyers and brands, the special focus on Made in France creativity also returns. The Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) supports the participation of a selection of Spanish menswear and lifestyle brands.
Highlights in the city include Andro Eradze’s exhibition “Bones of Tomorrow,” the Georgian artist’s first institutional solo show in Italy. The project brings together a selection of videos, photographs, and installations conceived specifically for two venues: the Project Space at Palazzo Strozzi and the former Teatro dell’Oriuolo, home of IED Florence (until January 25, 2026).
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Global asset management firm GoldenTree will buy a chunk of a $1 billion bankruptcy financing for luxury retailer Saks Global, Bloomberg News reported on Tuesday, citing people familiar with the matter.
A Neiman Marcus store, part of the Saks business – Neiman Marcus
GoldenTree, which is founded by billionaire Steve Tananbaum, has committed to buy a roughly $200 million portion of the so-called debtor-in-possession financing, according to the report.
Saks Global and GoldenTree did not immediately respond to Reuters requests for comment.
The high-end US department store conglomerate filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection on January 13, after a debt-laden takeover.
Warped, a proudly Australian menswear brand, made its debut at the recent Pitti Uomo 109, unveiling its first-ever collection for Autumn–Winter 2026/27. Warped channels a strong, functional and authentic masculinity, free of artifice: a man capable of moving with equal ease through the Australian outback or a metropolis, without ever betraying himself. This vision translates into a collection that combines ready-to-wear, streetwear and active-functional pieces, underpinned by rigorous material research, responsible production, and a strong connection to Australia’s history and identity.
Jack Cassidy Williams, right, wearing Warped alongside one of his sons
The brand is so steeped in the free-spirited, authentic ethos of Mitch “Crocodile” Dundee, a cult figure of 1980s cinema who helped shape the image abroad of the no-nonsense Australian, that even the founder- who arrived in Milan with his two sons, aged 18 and 15, already active in the company- looks like the very character created by Paul Hogan.
“Crocodile Dundee is not just a film to us; it’s a way of being in the world. It’s about a man who hunts crocodiles with his bare hands in the outback and stays true to himself even under the dazzling lights of the metropolis,” Warped founder Jack Cassidy Williams explained to FashionNetwork.com. “It’s the story of a man who enters a sophisticated system without changing who he is. Functional, direct, honest. This is who we are. We’re not here to bend to fashion’s unwritten rules, but to bring our own way of doing things: less artifice, more reality.”
Warped
“Everything in the collection is handmade by my family. We design it, select the fabrics, create the patterns, and develop everything together- my children and I- in Australia. Traditional garments with modern finishes, in terms of handle and functionality; we even offer waterproof clothing, such as GOTS-certified waterproof cotton. Then there’s denim. All the fabrics are 100% made in Italy,” Cassidy Williams continues. At the heart of the collection is extensive fabric research: 100% RWS wool; high-stretch scuba fabrics and bi-stretch wool; cotton denim with a 3D weave effect; water-repellent cottons, viscose and viscose/linen blends for suits, jackets and trousers; high-performance, ultra-comfortable fabrics; and kangaroo-leather laces- a material five times as strong as cowhide- hand-finished with raw edges and authentic details.
“The collection is, in a way, a tribute to America, because the theme is the so-called ramblin’ man, or the free man; it’s basically about my whole life,” says the Australian entrepreneur. “All those people who decided to forge their own journey, to walk the path of life without following someone else. Like Hank Williams, Jack Kerouac, Duke Ellington, Bird, Muddy Waters, Pinetop, or Woody Guthrie- men who honoured life. Nowadays it’s so difficult to be free that freedom really is a state of mind. It’s our first collection through and through; we practically finished it before boarding the plane,” Cassidy Williams laughs heartily, then slips on a floppy wide-brimmed hat, slings a kangaroo hide over his shoulder and, as he pretends to crack a whip in the air, looks even more like Mitch Dundee- all after letting us taste a kangaroo salami and crocodile snacks…
Warped
“Our family has a textile tradition of great depth- more than sixty years- so Warped also works with the best global manufacturers in the mid-luxury segment: lace from France, fabrics from Italy, and other high-quality materials sourced from factories in Turkey, Japan and Korea,” Jack Cassidy Williams continues. “These factories were chosen not for trend’s sake, but because they’re unique- each one different from the next.”
Warped’s menswear collection for Autumn–Winter 2026/27 comprises around 40 looks spanning ready-to-wear, streetwear, and active-functional pieces. Jackets, suits, trousers, shorts, shirts, and T-shirts sit alongside a street and sportswear offer that includes hoodies, joggers and technical garments, all designed to be comfortable, durable, easy to care for, and genuinely wearable day to day.
Alongside the Warped men’s line, the company presented the Golden Age Sportswear (G.A.S) label in Milan, while the Warped Woman, and G.A.S Woman’s Street collections will debut in Italy from next Spring/Summer.
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Two indie fashion brands, Auralee from Japan and Études Studio from France, staged highly contrasting collections on Tuesday, the opening day of Paris Fashion Week Men, testifying to the dynamism of the season in the French capital.
Auralee: Purist fashion with polish
A moment of grace on Tuesday evening at Auralee, where Ryota Iwai’s deceptively understated designs never fail to impress.
Auralee’s answer to its question: “What makes winter joyful?” – Luca Tombolini
Staged in the Musée de l’Homme facing an illuminated Eiffel Tower, the show was the latest pure statement by a designer whose clothes blend subtlety with refinement.
Whatever fabric Iwai plays with always seems just right: whether speckled Donegal tweeds seen in brown knit pants for guys, or a frayed hem skirt for girls in this co-ed show. Leather or lambskin jerkins and baseball jackets, all were ideal.
Semi-transparent nylon splash vests or wispy trenches had real cool. While Iwai’s detailing was also very natty- like the flight jacket trimmed with fur.
A women’s look by Auralee – Luca Tombolini
He is also a great colourist- from the washed-out sea green of a canvas ranger’s jacket to the moody Mediterranean blue of a caban. Though his finale featured a quintet of looks in black. Most charmingly a languid, deconstructed double-breasted cashmere coat worn on a shirtless model- the picture of perfection.
There were perhaps not that many sartorial fireworks in the show, but there didn’t need to be. This was a purist fashion statement of polish and precision that this audience could only admire.
Backed up by a great soundtrack – Sounding Line 6 by Moritz. Von Oswald or the cutely named Autumn Sweater by Yo La Tengo- the whole display won Ryota a loud and long ovation. Fully deserved too.
Études Studio: Resonating in IRCAM
Études Studio certainly know how to stage a show. The design duo invited guests into the bowels of the Institute for Research and Coordination in Acoustics/Music, or IRCAM a unique French concept dedicated to experimental sounds.
A look by Études Studio – Collective Parade – Gaspar J. Ruiz Lidberg
Which we enjoyed a lot of thanks to Darren J. Cunningham, a British electronic musician known professionally as Actress. It made for a dramatic mood, as keys and chords swelled and raged throughout this show.
As a result, the design duo of Aurélien Arbet and Jérémie Egry titled this Autumn/Winter 2027 collection ‘Résonances.’ Terming it in their program: “A medley bringing into dialogue the minimalist experiments rooted in John Cage’s philosophy with the emergence of intelligent Dance Music in the early 1990s.”
The result was a rather moody series of clothes, made in a sombre palette of muddy brown, dark purple, black, black, and even more black.
Muted tones at Études Studio – Collective Parade – Gaspar J. Ruiz Lidberg
What stood out were the bulbous, off-the-shoulder puffers, worn over corduroy shirts or roll-necks- topped by some great rancher hats courtesy of Lambert. One could also admire sleek raingear; cool cocoon shaped jerkins and fuzzy mohair sweaters. And appreciate a sleek A-Line coat and zippered knit safari jacket in a rare women’s look in this show.
Photoshopped faces in black and white scarves all looked very appealing, as did the brand’s debut bag, a satchel in tough canvas. And one had to applaud one great dull gold, wildly deconstructed puffer.
That said, the collection lacked proper kick and rarely resonated as the show title suggested it would. A decent statement about the mode, but far from a fashion moment.