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Essentiel Antwerp posts double-digit growth in 2025, will open new Parisian store in November

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Nicola Mira

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November 3, 2025

Esfan Eghtessadi, who founded the Essentiel Antwerp label in 1999 in Antwerp with Inge Onsea, has told FashionNetwork.com that the label expects revenue to keep on growing in 2025, bolstered by new physical and online retail initiatives. Eghtessadi, the Franco-Iranian-Belgian son of designer Nicole Cadine, grew up in a fashion environment, amidst fabrics, sketches and collections. Onsea, whose mother loved vintage clothes, worked as a model and lived for five years in India, a country that has inspired her with its colours, printed patterns, and quirky combinations.

Essentiel Antwerp, Fall/Winter 2025-26

“The current market context is proving unsettled and complex for the entire sector. We’re proud we’re keeping up a healthy, steady growth, thanks to our staff’s efforts and commitment,” said Eghtessadi. “Having generated a revenue of €64 million in 2024, a 14.5% increase over 2023, we’re expecting solid, double-digit growth for 2025 too, driven by our new business initiatives and our label’s ability to generate a positive organic performance despite the current market challenges,” he added.
 
Essentiel Antwerp, with its extensive ready-to-wear collections and a full accessories line, was created by Eghtessadi and Onsea as an antidote to minimalist, monochrome fashion. It is distinctive for its fresh, original and sophisticated style, and is renowned for original prints and bold colour combinations.

“Our ready-to-wear collections are produced in China, Europe, India and Africa,” said Eghtessadi. “Through long-standing collaborations with our suppliers – with many of them for over 20 years – and by carefully choosing [producers] whose skills are best-suited to each garment’s requirements, we’re able to preserve a strong brand identity and offer high craftsmanship quality, the distinctive features of our most iconic items. In addition, we’re always committed to strengthening our ESG performance and improving sustainability across the value chain, via due diligence, supplier audits, attentive materials selection, and frequent process reviews, notably for transportation and packaging,” he added.

Essentiel Antwerp, Fall/Winter 2025-26
Essentiel Antwerp, Fall/Winter 2025-26

Essentiel Antwerp is currently distributed via 752 multibrand stores across 40 countries. Its main markets, considering all distribution channels, are Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, the UK and France. Eghtessadi said that the label’s best results in the wholesale channel come from Italy and the USA. “Italy accounts for approximately 8% of our wholesale business. We launched our e-shop in the country in March 2025, and the results are very promising. Site visits grew 74% in four months, and online sales increased by a factor of 3.5 in the same period. In May, we staged a brand awareness initiative by opening a kiosk in Milan, further boosting Essentiel Antwerp’s visibility and sales performance in the month,” said Eghtessadi.
 
Eghtessadi expects Essentiel Antwerp to continue growing in Italy, both in wholesale and e-tail: “Italy is a key market within our strategic plan, which is aimed at developing a complete brand experience through physical and digital channels,” he said.
 
Essentiel Antwerp currently has 40 monobrand stores, 32 of them directly operated. The label’s overall direct retail performance is solid, and sales have increased 6% since January. “Our second Parisian store’s opening is scheduled in early November, while our 2026 expansion plan is designed to boost our presence in Europe’s main cities,” said Eghtessadi.

Essentiel Antwerp, Fall/Winter 2025-26
Essentiel Antwerp, Fall/Winter 2025-26

Essentiel Antwerp has 300 employees but, given its growth rate and expansion plans, Eghtessadi indicated that staff numbers will increase “to respond to the market’s evolving needs and new consumer trends. Recruitment will be geared toward new skills to support business expansion and innovation,” he said. “Our quality, creativity and affordability give us stability. We believe they are key values that continue to inspire our customers. Fashion must retain its power to make people dream, and we’re confident the industry will be able to address its current challenges,” said Eghtessadi.
 
What about tariffs? “Like all brands, we’ve been impacted. The challenge is to adapt without penalising customers, and to continue to grow despite these new barriers to trade,” concluded Eghtessadi.
 
The advertising campaign for Essentiel Antwerp’s Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection is entitled Paris s’éveille (Paris awakens). The collection is characterised by a grunge aesthetic elevated by ironic touches and refined layering, as well as tailored constructions and starkly contrasting materials.

An Essentiel Antwerp handbag
An Essentiel Antwerp handbag

The collection is an eclectic blend of deconstructed skirts and shirts, thin ties, faux-fur looks, pearls, lace and sequins. Check, snakeskin and camo prints inject a rock ‘n’ roll vibe to a vibrant palette featuring bright red, electric blue and dark green.

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Quirky new French maison Paon-Paon spreads its wings in the luxury sector

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January 20, 2026

Paon-Paon is still little-known but is already making its presence felt. The fledgling French artisanal maison is setting up a snug nest at 11 rue du Dragon in Paris, where it will open on January 30. The store is the brainchild of CEO Emmanuel Gavache, who co-founded Paon-Paon with Aurélie Introzzi, the maison’s creative director.

Paon-Paon’s first collection is big on cowhide leather – Paon-Paon

Paon-Paon was founded in December 2025, entering the market with a range of women’s footwear featuring sandals, mules, pumps and booties, some of them characterised by curved shapes, others more sharply defined. The models come in a wide variety of colours and materials, from pink or white cowhide to black or gold metal-effect leather, black or blue cashmere uppers, and more. Paon-Paon’s shoes are priced between €500 and €700, hoping to attract Parisian women with an eye for detail and luxury.

A touch of extravagance and “groundbreaking” sourcing

Introzzi, the creative mind behind the brand, said that “I design shoes because I’m profoundly convinced that footwear can do much more than change a look. Shoes influence posture, and posture can transform one’s attitude and confidence, the way one enters a room and inhabits the world.” Introzzi’s aim is to add a touch of extravagance to luxury.

Barely three months old, Paon-Paon will open its first store in Paris at the end of January
Barely three months old, Paon-Paon will open its first store in Paris at the end of January – Paon-Paon

Paon-Paon shoes are made in Milan by a single manufacturer, following the “groundbreaking” sourcing strategy devised by Gavache, who is well aware of future requirements for manufacturing transparency. For example, the shoes’ leather comes from calves raised close to the tanneries that treat the material. Gavache is keen to showcase Paon-Paon’s traceable sourcing practices, and said he can organise visits to the brand’s manufacturing partners. 

“Self-styled” luxury is meaningless

While Paon-Paon’s artisanal products are currently all made in Italy, Gavache is hoping to eventually produce in France, though he laments the harsh climate making it difficult to set up in business in the country. Paon-Paon is looking to expand its range, and is planning to gradually introduce leather goods and ready-to-wear within the next two years. However, Gavache prefers to describe Paon-Paon as an “artisanal maison” rather than a luxury label. “Before being deservedly labelled as ‘luxury’, [a brand] needs to be truly well-established to be identified as such. I don’t think one can self-style one’s brand as a luxury one,” he said.

Paon-Paon shoes are all made in Italy, near Milan
Paon-Paon shoes are all made in Italy, near Milan – Paon-Paon

The same quest for the meaning of the word ‘luxury’ is mirrored in Introzzi’s words. “Having spent 12 years creating and perfecting comfortable footwear – an obsession that’s always stayed with me – working alongside top-notch artisans in Italy, I developed a desire to go a step further, travelling the extra mile and returning to what truly drives me: human nature, the environment, materials, colours, the lived experience,” she said.

Pivotal first year for Paon-Paon

The third name in Paon-Paon’s executive triumvirate is Catherine Teurquetil, who started her career in fashion and advertising before founding a children’s stationery and home decoration brand, and later taking charge of the family’s wine estate. Her business experience now enables her to actively shape “[Paon-Paon’s] vision and main strategies,” she said. According to Teurquetil, the maison’s challenge in its first year is to develop a powerful image and the vision of an established brand. 

Paon-Paon is keen to become a recognised player in the French luxury sector
Paon-Paon is keen to become a recognised player in the French luxury sector – Paon-Paon

Teurquetil also cast light on what drove her to take part in the Paon-Paon venture: “I was immediately attracted by its creative freedom and artistic vision, as both chime perfectly with my sense for luxury and fashion.” She added that “the team’s quality, my clear desire to link up again with a demanding creative environment, and the very strong prospect of future success, made it a no-brainer.”

“Tightly controlled” distribution

After a year of preparation and barely out of the trap, Paon-Paon is already available at Printemps in New York. A “symbolically strong” presence according to Gavache, who is working on a “tightly controlled” distribution footprint. In parallel, Paon-Paon launched online and at Parisian accessories store 58M, and is hoping to work with Le Bon Marché in the capital, and with Galeries Lafayette in other French cities.

Paon-Paon shoes are equipped with removable soles, which can be replaced in Italy
Paon-Paon shoes are equipped with removable soles, which can be replaced in Italy – Paon-Paon

For now, Paon-Paon’s priority project is its Parisian store. It extends over 70 square metres, 40 of which are devoted to the retail area and 30 to a space for product alterations and personalisation. The latter service is set to be provided by French artisans. Paon-Paon shoes, with the goal of extending their useful life, are equipped with removable soles that can be replaced in the producer’s workshop in Italy. 

A “groundbreaking” sourcing approach, longer-lasting products and luxury designs don’t seem to be enough for Gavache. He has a history of investing in new technology, and is planning to bring his experience in the sector to bear. For example, he is keen to use a LiDAR scanner with volunteer customers to adapt Paon-Paon shoes to their actual foot shapes. Because, while the maison is taking flight, it might as well spread its wings in avant-garde fashion.

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Italian childrenswear remains in decline, 2025 expected to contract by 3.2%

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January 20, 2026

After ending 2024 down 2.1%, Italy’s childrenswear sector is expected to end 2025 with turnover of just over 3 billion euros, a decline of 3.2%, according to preliminary estimates by Confindustria Moda‘s Economic and Statistical Research Office. The value of production is expected to fall by 4.8% year on year.

In foreign trade, childrenswear exports are forecast to decline by 3.2%, bringing the total value of overseas sales to 1.5 billion euros and accounting for 48.9% of sector turnover. By contrast, imports are expected to grow by 1.8%, taking the total to almost 2.6 billion euros.

With regard to foreign markets, the analysis can be limited to babywear, which, according to Istat, fell by 3.9% in the first nine months of 2025 to 112.7 million euros. This negative trend affected both EU (-1.2%) and non-EU (-5.9%) markets.

During the period under review, the United Arab Emirates confirmed its position as the leading destination for babywear, posting growth of 18.1% to 10.3 million euros, equivalent to 9.2% of total exports. Despite a 2.3% contraction, Spain climbs to second place and accounts for 9.1%, while France takes third place with growth of 1.3%. The US, a strategic market for babywear, slips to fourth following a marked 17.0% decline, to 8.6 million euros and a 7.6% share. The UK and Germany, the fifth and sixth destination markets respectively, also contracted, but at very different rates: the UK recorded a modest 3.6% decline, with a value of 6.8 million euros, while Germany suffered a more pronounced 16% loss, with turnover of 4.8 million euros, corresponding to 4.3% of total exports for the segment.

Conversely, China, in seventh place, shows moderate growth (+4.5%) to 4.6 million euros, followed by Russia and Poland, with particularly strong increases of 35.3% and 63% respectively. Sales to Israel also rose sharply, up 131.2% to 3.9 million euros, taking its share to 3.5%.

Among other European markets, Portugal and Bulgaria, the eleventh and twelfth, both show increases of 1.9% and 0.3% respectively; while Greece and the Netherlands, in fourteenth and fifteenth positions, show declines of 12.3% and 14.5%, respectively. In the Middle East, in addition to the aforementioned Emirates, Qatar (2.9 million euros, +8.9%) and Saudi Arabia (2.2 million euros, +25.6%) stand out, strengthening their overall contribution.

Finally, with shares of less than 2%, Belgium and Romania show significant growth, with increases of 52.3% and 12.6%, respectively, while Croatia and Japan register smaller negative changes of 7.8% and 0.5%, respectively.

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Monica Vinader enlists Sienna Spiro as face of latest campaign

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January 20, 2026

Monica Vinader has chosen English singer/songwriter Sienna Spiro as the face of the aspirational, ambitious premium jewellery brand. 

Sienna Spiro

The “meaningful collaboration” links the jewellery brand “known for its design integrity and exceptional quality” to “one of music’s most compelling emerging voices… with her lyrics rooted in feeling and intention, qualities that closely align with Monica Vinader’s approach to design”, we’re told.

Throughout the campaign, Spiro wears the new Infinity collections as well as Monica Vinader pieces engraved with lyrics from her song ‘You Stole the Show’.

The engravings spotlight the brand’s personalisation services, “transforming jewellery into objects of meaning, from song lyrics and private messages to personal mantras”, the retailer said.

The brand, which has several stores in London, plus stores at Liverpool One, in Manchester and Edinburgh, appointed a new CEO in November. Sebastian Picardo now heads the previously family-run brand founded by siblings Monica (artistic director) and Gabriela (non-exec director) in 2008.

Picardo’s a seasoned luxury executive who’s worked at Holt Renfrew, Lane Crawford, Burberry, Net-A-Porter and Alexander McQueen

At the time of his appointment, the sisters said Picardo is “perfectly placed to guide our next phase of growth” and will work to accelerate the business’s global reach, “scaling innovation, inspiring existing and new audiences, and setting new standards for modern luxury jewellery”.

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