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Italy’s Artknit Studios opens first London pop-up

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October 29, 2025

It’s time to “invite a new audience to experience [our] signature approach to refined, sustainable luxury”. So says premium Italian knitwear label Artknit Studios, which has chosen upscale Draycott Avenue in London’s Chelsea for its first physical pop-up store “that’s an important milestone in the brand’s European expansion”.

Image: Artknit Studios

Known for its “commitment to Italian craftsmanship and 100% natural materials”, the brand said the new store is “a cosy enclave of Italian elegance where heritage craftsmanship meets timeless style”.

The interior “blends an understated storefront with warm, artisanal touches”. This means handcrafted furniture and tiles from Biella (the brand’s Italian home) sit alongside restored vintage pieces. Meanwhile, dark wood, metal accents, soft textiles, and a muted palette “create an immersive, welcoming environment”.

Its autumn seasonal offer is “centred on the versatility of wool”, with the collection moving from “lightweight city essentials to structured winter tailoring”.

Highlights include fine-gauge sweaters, combed-wool polos, and overshirts, alongside twill jackets and cardigans.

Alessandro Lovisetto, founder and CEO, said: “Following the success of [our] flagship stores in Milan, Rome, and Paris, [we’re] excited to bring our philosophy of ‘less, but better’ to the British capital.

“London feels like [our] natural home… a city that values the same things we do: quality, craftsmanship, and timeless design.”

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Quirky new French maison Paon-Paon spreads its wings in the luxury sector

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Nicola Mira

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January 20, 2026

Paon-Paon is still little-known but is already making its presence felt. The fledgling French artisanal maison is setting up a snug nest at 11 rue du Dragon in Paris, where it will open on January 30. The store is the brainchild of CEO Emmanuel Gavache, who co-founded Paon-Paon with Aurélie Introzzi, the maison’s creative director.

Paon-Paon’s first collection is big on cowhide leather – Paon-Paon

Paon-Paon was founded in December 2025, entering the market with a range of women’s footwear featuring sandals, mules, pumps and booties, some of them characterised by curved shapes, others more sharply defined. The models come in a wide variety of colours and materials, from pink or white cowhide to black or gold metal-effect leather, black or blue cashmere uppers, and more. Paon-Paon’s shoes are priced between €500 and €700, hoping to attract Parisian women with an eye for detail and luxury.

A touch of extravagance and “groundbreaking” sourcing

Introzzi, the creative mind behind the brand, said that “I design shoes because I’m profoundly convinced that footwear can do much more than change a look. Shoes influence posture, and posture can transform one’s attitude and confidence, the way one enters a room and inhabits the world.” Introzzi’s aim is to add a touch of extravagance to luxury.

Barely three months old, Paon-Paon will open its first store in Paris at the end of January
Barely three months old, Paon-Paon will open its first store in Paris at the end of January – Paon-Paon

Paon-Paon shoes are made in Milan by a single manufacturer, following the “groundbreaking” sourcing strategy devised by Gavache, who is well aware of future requirements for manufacturing transparency. For example, the shoes’ leather comes from calves raised close to the tanneries that treat the material. Gavache is keen to showcase Paon-Paon’s traceable sourcing practices, and said he can organise visits to the brand’s manufacturing partners. 

“Self-styled” luxury is meaningless

While Paon-Paon’s artisanal products are currently all made in Italy, Gavache is hoping to eventually produce in France, though he laments the harsh climate making it difficult to set up in business in the country. Paon-Paon is looking to expand its range, and is planning to gradually introduce leather goods and ready-to-wear within the next two years. However, Gavache prefers to describe Paon-Paon as an “artisanal maison” rather than a luxury label. “Before being deservedly labelled as ‘luxury’, [a brand] needs to be truly well-established to be identified as such. I don’t think one can self-style one’s brand as a luxury one,” he said.

Paon-Paon shoes are all made in Italy, near Milan
Paon-Paon shoes are all made in Italy, near Milan – Paon-Paon

The same quest for the meaning of the word ‘luxury’ is mirrored in Introzzi’s words. “Having spent 12 years creating and perfecting comfortable footwear – an obsession that’s always stayed with me – working alongside top-notch artisans in Italy, I developed a desire to go a step further, travelling the extra mile and returning to what truly drives me: human nature, the environment, materials, colours, the lived experience,” she said.

Pivotal first year for Paon-Paon

The third name in Paon-Paon’s executive triumvirate is Catherine Teurquetil, who started her career in fashion and advertising before founding a children’s stationery and home decoration brand, and later taking charge of the family’s wine estate. Her business experience now enables her to actively shape “[Paon-Paon’s] vision and main strategies,” she said. According to Teurquetil, the maison’s challenge in its first year is to develop a powerful image and the vision of an established brand. 

Paon-Paon is keen to become a recognised player in the French luxury sector
Paon-Paon is keen to become a recognised player in the French luxury sector – Paon-Paon

Teurquetil also cast light on what drove her to take part in the Paon-Paon venture: “I was immediately attracted by its creative freedom and artistic vision, as both chime perfectly with my sense for luxury and fashion.” She added that “the team’s quality, my clear desire to link up again with a demanding creative environment, and the very strong prospect of future success, made it a no-brainer.”

“Tightly controlled” distribution

After a year of preparation and barely out of the trap, Paon-Paon is already available at Printemps in New York. A “symbolically strong” presence according to Gavache, who is working on a “tightly controlled” distribution footprint. In parallel, Paon-Paon launched online and at Parisian accessories store 58M, and is hoping to work with Le Bon Marché in the capital, and with Galeries Lafayette in other French cities.

Paon-Paon shoes are equipped with removable soles, which can be replaced in Italy
Paon-Paon shoes are equipped with removable soles, which can be replaced in Italy – Paon-Paon

For now, Paon-Paon’s priority project is its Parisian store. It extends over 70 square metres, 40 of which are devoted to the retail area and 30 to a space for product alterations and personalisation. The latter service is set to be provided by French artisans. Paon-Paon shoes, with the goal of extending their useful life, are equipped with removable soles that can be replaced in the producer’s workshop in Italy. 

A “groundbreaking” sourcing approach, longer-lasting products and luxury designs don’t seem to be enough for Gavache. He has a history of investing in new technology, and is planning to bring his experience in the sector to bear. For example, he is keen to use a LiDAR scanner with volunteer customers to adapt Paon-Paon shoes to their actual foot shapes. Because, while the maison is taking flight, it might as well spread its wings in avant-garde fashion.

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Italian childrenswear remains in decline, 2025 expected to contract by 3.2%

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January 20, 2026

After ending 2024 down 2.1%, Italy’s childrenswear sector is expected to end 2025 with turnover of just over 3 billion euros, a decline of 3.2%, according to preliminary estimates by Confindustria Moda‘s Economic and Statistical Research Office. The value of production is expected to fall by 4.8% year on year.

In foreign trade, childrenswear exports are forecast to decline by 3.2%, bringing the total value of overseas sales to 1.5 billion euros and accounting for 48.9% of sector turnover. By contrast, imports are expected to grow by 1.8%, taking the total to almost 2.6 billion euros.

With regard to foreign markets, the analysis can be limited to babywear, which, according to Istat, fell by 3.9% in the first nine months of 2025 to 112.7 million euros. This negative trend affected both EU (-1.2%) and non-EU (-5.9%) markets.

During the period under review, the United Arab Emirates confirmed its position as the leading destination for babywear, posting growth of 18.1% to 10.3 million euros, equivalent to 9.2% of total exports. Despite a 2.3% contraction, Spain climbs to second place and accounts for 9.1%, while France takes third place with growth of 1.3%. The US, a strategic market for babywear, slips to fourth following a marked 17.0% decline, to 8.6 million euros and a 7.6% share. The UK and Germany, the fifth and sixth destination markets respectively, also contracted, but at very different rates: the UK recorded a modest 3.6% decline, with a value of 6.8 million euros, while Germany suffered a more pronounced 16% loss, with turnover of 4.8 million euros, corresponding to 4.3% of total exports for the segment.

Conversely, China, in seventh place, shows moderate growth (+4.5%) to 4.6 million euros, followed by Russia and Poland, with particularly strong increases of 35.3% and 63% respectively. Sales to Israel also rose sharply, up 131.2% to 3.9 million euros, taking its share to 3.5%.

Among other European markets, Portugal and Bulgaria, the eleventh and twelfth, both show increases of 1.9% and 0.3% respectively; while Greece and the Netherlands, in fourteenth and fifteenth positions, show declines of 12.3% and 14.5%, respectively. In the Middle East, in addition to the aforementioned Emirates, Qatar (2.9 million euros, +8.9%) and Saudi Arabia (2.2 million euros, +25.6%) stand out, strengthening their overall contribution.

Finally, with shares of less than 2%, Belgium and Romania show significant growth, with increases of 52.3% and 12.6%, respectively, while Croatia and Japan register smaller negative changes of 7.8% and 0.5%, respectively.

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Monica Vinader enlists Sienna Spiro as face of latest campaign

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January 20, 2026

Monica Vinader has chosen English singer/songwriter Sienna Spiro as the face of the aspirational, ambitious premium jewellery brand. 

Sienna Spiro

The “meaningful collaboration” links the jewellery brand “known for its design integrity and exceptional quality” to “one of music’s most compelling emerging voices… with her lyrics rooted in feeling and intention, qualities that closely align with Monica Vinader’s approach to design”, we’re told.

Throughout the campaign, Spiro wears the new Infinity collections as well as Monica Vinader pieces engraved with lyrics from her song ‘You Stole the Show’.

The engravings spotlight the brand’s personalisation services, “transforming jewellery into objects of meaning, from song lyrics and private messages to personal mantras”, the retailer said.

The brand, which has several stores in London, plus stores at Liverpool One, in Manchester and Edinburgh, appointed a new CEO in November. Sebastian Picardo now heads the previously family-run brand founded by siblings Monica (artistic director) and Gabriela (non-exec director) in 2008.

Picardo’s a seasoned luxury executive who’s worked at Holt Renfrew, Lane Crawford, Burberry, Net-A-Porter and Alexander McQueen

At the time of his appointment, the sisters said Picardo is “perfectly placed to guide our next phase of growth” and will work to accelerate the business’s global reach, “scaling innovation, inspiring existing and new audiences, and setting new standards for modern luxury jewellery”.

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