On Thursday, Zalando held its “Partners Day” in Paris, bringing together 280 executives and representatives of the platform’s French brands and partners. The event offered an opportunity to take stock of French online apparel sales, as well as current trends in fashion, from luxury to budget.
Laura Toledano, Zalando’s Managing Director for Western Europe, addressing the 280 invited professionals – MG/FNW
Under the colourful glass roof and gilding of the Hôtel d’Évreux, a large cross-section of the French apparel and beauty industry convened, alongside a number of online sales specialists and trade federation representatives. While the morning featured several experience-sharing sessions from brands such as Salomon, Soeur and Kendo Paris, the various market analyses lent the event the stature of an industry summit. Zalando was there to demonstrate its commitment to the industry.
“In terms of our infrastructure, there are still many synergies to develop. The priority is to continue investing in the customer experience,” explained co-founder David Schneider, who travelled from Berlin for the occasion.
“We believe a new era is dawning for fashion retail. The customer experience will be very different in a few years’ time. Our ambition is to help shape this wave, because many innovations are emerging and there are many frontiers to push.”
Online fashion sales in France have risen by 6% in volume this year, according to figures presented for the event by Guillaume Coudry, NielsenIQ’s e-commerce manager for Western Europe. Growth was also reported in sport (+10%), beauty (+5%) and designer apparel (+6%). He also notes that while the average basket value has fallen to €48, this decline is offset by an increase in purchase frequency, now at 8.2 per year.
“Marketplaces continue to gain market share in online fashion sales, while direct-to-consumer is losing ground. The challenge for brands is to reposition themselves strategically within this ecosystem,” emphasises Guillaume Coudry, who flagged a new player to watch closely: TikTok Shop.
“It remains very limited in France, but it’s a real breakthrough for commerce, with inspiration and purchase converging. It’s a massive phenomenon that is gaining momentum,” said the expert, who points out that Puma is currently the only clothing brand to make it into the Top 30 best-selling brands on the Chinese social network.
Luxury and the challenge of desirability
Xavier Romatet, managing director of the Institut Français de la Mode, identifies two major challenges affecting the luxury sector: on the one hand, the slowdown in the two markets that have long been the main drivers, China and the United States; and on the other, an issue linked to price trends, with price rises accounting for 80% of post-Covid sales growth.
Pierre-François Le Louet (Nelly Rodi), Xavier Romatet (IFM) and journalist Loïc Prigent – MG/FNW
“Behind this phenomenon lies the question of desirability: why would a customer agree to pay €3,500 for a product that previously cost €3,000?” analysed the specialist. For him, the two levers of desirability are creativity, stimulated by the recent reshuffle of creative directors, and quality: the consumer expects an expensive piece to last over time.
The head of IFM also identified a number of decisive social issues for the sector’s future, chief among them the social and environmental responsibility of products, as well as the impact of technology — and artificial intelligence in particular — on the value chain. The specialist also pointed to a new relationship with ownership and possession, which will make the brand experience all the more central. “The problems are well identified; it is the answers that have yet to be devised,” stressed Romatet.
Polarisation and ultra-fast fashion
This analysis of the luxury sector chimed with the NellyRodi agency’s observation that the market is becoming increasingly polarised. Its director, Pierre-François Le Louët, pointed to a widening gap between entry-level and top-end products, driven in particular by the Chinese player Shein, which is pushing entry-level prices down. And while the future of the fast-fashion bill, criticised by the European Commission, remains uncertain, the man who also co-chairs the UFIMH (Union française des industries de la mode et de l’habillement) notes that the finance bill presented on October 15 provides for a €2 tax on small non-European parcels, currently exempt from tax.
“Brands that believe that Shein has no impact on them are completely mistaken,” said the specialist.
“Shein is imposing a new way of behaving and shopping online, and setting new benchmarks in terms of technology, pace, communication, pricing and consumers’ mindset. But there is also a modest revival among certain retailers: polarisation will, paradoxically, give a little breathing space to the various price tiers that invest in understanding the customer and the brand experience.”
In passing, the manager refers to the imminent arrival of Shein at BHV, “which now resembles an extremely empty department store under Brezhnev”.
This comes just a few weeks after the signing of an agreement between European federations against ultra-fast fashion.
“Our small French initiative has triggered a wave of European initiatives,” said Le Louët with satisfaction, citing measures taken by Italy, Sweden and Portugal, while the European Commission is gradually taking up the issue.
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In the run-up to Christmas Boots is stepping up its gift-delivered-direct-to-the-door offer with delivery partners Uber Eats, Deliveroo and Just Eat, offering a within-30-minutes target.
Boots
The upgrade follows a surge of on-demand orders from “thousands of customers” on Christmas Eve last year. And it pointed to research that shows 56% leave some of their Christmas shopping to the very last day, so “the retailer is primed for another busy Christmas Eve”.
The health & beauty giant’s on-demand deliveries are now available from 500 stores across the UK, and in selected locations across the country, very-last-minute customers can order up until midnight on Christmas Eve “and will still receive their shopping in time for the big day”.
Boots said last-minute shoppers can choose from over 10,000 products with over 1,600 Christmas gifts available. Customers can also order up until Monday 22 December for Click & Collect in-store, and 23 December for next-day home delivery.
Paula Bobbett, chief Data and Digital officer at Boots, said: “We want to make it even easier for our customers who find themselves shopping right up to the last moment. Boots on-demand can help change that final dash into an easy delivery. We’re here to make shopping feel joyful, not stressful, helping shoppers find thoughtful gifts quickly and easily, even if they’ve missed online order cut-offs or store opening hours.”
The brand, founded in 2010 by Mathieu and Nicolas Gourdikian, who retain a minority stake, has faced a succession of crises that now threaten its very existence. The challenge is no longer simply to finance growth, but to ensure operational survival.
According to documents reviewed by FashionNetwork.com, JOTT’s commercial engine has stalled, leaving the brand with large volumes of stock to clear, eroding its brand image despite significant work on its stylistic proposition. For several seasons, substantial volumes of its down jackets have been offered at knock-down prices, and even sold off on markets.
After a sharp decline in activity at its logistics and distribution company JOTT Opérations in 2023, revenue collapsed again last year by more than 28% to 54.7 million euros. The company attributes this dramatic fall directly to the bankruptcy of its logistics provider at the beginning of 2024- an event that necessitated the urgent relocation of stock and a complex recovery of operations.
The cost of this logistical setback contributed to a deficit of 30 million euros at JOTT Opérations and an operating loss of more than 4 million euros for JOTT France, the company’s own distribution entity. The activities of entities in other markets are also suffering, implying that it remains to be proven that the brand concept can be exported profitably.
Faced with these accumulated losses, the operational companies’ equity turned negative, weakening the company’s structure just as significant instalments were falling due. In 2024, shareholder support helped address this situation, with 18 million euros injected in two tranches. However, this appears to have merely contained the damage, without preventing the massive depreciation of the group’s assets.
Thus, in 2025, the rescue plan faced an impossible equation: operating losses had made the enormous debt contracted at the time of the LBO unsustainable. Specifically, this debt- concentrated in a holding company called Jaguar Bidco- amounts to nearly 156 million euros. Negotiations with creditors, in particular Idinvest Partners and Eurazeo, were, understandably, extremely tight. The shareholder recapitalisation, approved last April, is clearly a vital step forward for the future of JOTT.
A tight agreement with creditors
This 99 million euro injection is not merely about plugging an accounting gap; it is an essential condition demanded by the company’s bondholders to give the business breathing space. In exchange for this major financial effort, creditors have agreed to pause certain financial obligations through a mechanism known as a waiver. However, this breathing space is not a blank cheque. In return for their patience, the creditors attached particularly strict covenants to the agreement. These contractual commitments oblige the company’s management to meet performance ratios quarter after quarter. For the brand, this means advancing under close scrutiny: any failure to meet the trajectory could break the waiver agreement and give creditors the right to demand immediate repayment of their claims, or even to take control of the equity.
If management keeps its commitments, this translates into crucial relief for cash flow: the suspension of interest payments on the debt until the end of 2027, turning immediate cash pressure into future debt. This should enable JOTT to concentrate its resources on the only thing that matters now: selling products.
This reprieve, coupled with agreements with banking partners, gives management, now led by Thierry Miremont, a two-year window to reinvent JOTT’s business model. According to the available information, the strategic plan includes an in-depth transformation of retail.
This transformation involves a painful but necessary rationalisation: the company has already begun closing shops deemed unprofitable, notably in Paris and Bordeaux and across various European markets. At the same time, JOTT is betting on technological modernisation to regain efficiency, accelerating the roll-out of performance initiatives such as an automatic replenishment tool, according to the company’s management. As the brand seeks to increase its share of full-price products, investment appears key: it must ensure that stock- already subject to significant write-downs- is managed as tightly as possible to reduce product obsolescence and maximise margins. One piece of good news? Despite the difficulties, the tax audits carried out in 2024 on Jaguar Topco, the ultimate parent company, and JOTT France concluded without any reassessments in 2025.
The challenge, however, is considerable. The company will have to return rapidly to profitability- probably requiring an annual improvement of several tens of millions of euros- in order to make up the deficit. It will also have to prove to its partners the group’s future viability. Without this operational performance, the brand will not be able to cope with the resumption of debt repayments in 2028.
Management did not wish to answer our questions about the company’s situation. Nevertheless, its teams are hard at work optimising store performance (with a network that has already shrunk to 140 points of sale), strengthening the desirability of the collections and attracting new retailers, notably by preparing to exhibit at the Pitti Uomo trade fair in Florence and Who’s Next in Paris. But despite this operational proactivity, the challenge remains major: to turn the brand around by making it more agile and efficient within a compressed timeframe and against an unfavourable backdrop in both the French and international markets.
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Czech streetwear specialist Footshop told FashionNetwork.com about its ambitions for the French market. It has now set its sights on Rue de Rivoli in Paris’s 1st arrondissement for its French flagship, FashionNetwork.com has learned. The opening date for this sixth store has not yet been announced.
63 Rue de Rivoli (Paris 1st arrondissement) – Google Street View
With this address, Footshop secures a 237 square-metre, three-storey store, where the retailer will be flanked by menswear label Delaveine and Ray-Ban on one side, and by Bershka and Uniqlo on the other. Opposite, the building at 126 Rue de Rivoli, previously occupied by C&A, will in 2027 house a Radisson Collection hotel and 3,000 square metres of retail space.
Launched in Prague in 2012 by Peter Hajducek, Footshop will be well placed to attract shoppers from both Forum des Halles and the neighbouring Samaritaine. Aiming to become the European leader in streetwear, the company positions itself as a response to an increasingly discerning customer base.
The brand’s flagship in Prague – Footshop
This approach has prompted Nike, Adidas Originals, Puma, New Balance, Asics, and Birkenstock to collaborate with the retailer, which operates flagships in Prague, Budapest, Bucharest, Bratislava, and Warsaw, but relies primarily on online sales. The company recently said that its digital platforms, Footshop and Queens, are said to have generated 82 million visits and 585,000 downloads in one year.
After achieving sales of 61.6 million euros (75% generated internationally) in 2024, the company is expected to reach 82 million euros in 2025, representing annual growth of 40%.
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