The luxury sector’s three-decade boom is over, according to Berenberg analysts whose downgrade of LVMH coincided with the stock’s biggest surge since 2001.
Inside the ‘House of Dior’ in Beverly Hills – FashionNetwork.com
“Luxury is at an inflexion point,” the team led by Nick Anderson wrote in a note on Wednesday, cutting LVMH to hold from buy and Gucci-owner Kering SA to sell from hold. “We believe that the industry faces a structural demand problem, and that after three decades the luxury supercycle is over.”
In contrast to more upbeat analysts, Anderson argued that the sector’s troubles aren’t just the result of supply-side factors.
He pointed to pressure in China, a squeeze on incomes among aspirational consumers and shifting habits among younger shoppers as factors that have reshaped the landscape since the “exceptional” 2010s — when the luxury boom was fuelled by surging Chinese demand and US spending. Berenberg expects demand growth of 2-3% per year in the medium term, compared to a historical norm of around 6%.
The call stands out in light of Wednesday’s gain for LVMH, when shares posted the biggest intraday jump since September 2001. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior reported a return to sales growth, suggesting that a slump in luxury demand is easing, lifting shares of rivals including Kering. LVMH shares traded steady Thursday.
UBS Group AG raised its estimates on LVMH Thursday, upgrading the stock to buy and noting “momentum is back” following “thesis-changing” results. LVMH call option volumes spiked on earnings day to the highest in 16 years.
Following a turbulent first half, a gauge tracking the luxury sector has surged by about 20% in the past two months, as a relief rally took hold amid signs that the Trump administration’s tariffs have inflicted less damage than expected.
Still, that has pushed valuations to demanding levels and analysts have been mostly cautious when it comes to calling a recovery.
Anderson noted that he sees a divide between “absolute” luxury consumers, who are driven by wealth, and aspirational buyers driven by income. Berenberg’s positioning includes being short aspirational luxury exposure, long absolute and long sporting goods.
Aspirational consumers are “being squeezed” he said, citing the pressures of higher inflation, rising housing costs, uncertain tax burdens and fear of artificial intelligence-driven job losses. LVMH and Kering skew more toward aspirational consumers than some of their rivals, the analysts said.
While spending by Americans could potentially offset some of the Chinese weakness, “the short-term outlook is complex and uncertain,” said Anderson.
Gucci owner Kering and private equity firm Ardian said on Tuesday they had completed a joint venture agreement for a New York property deal valued at $900 million.
Kering’s brands include Saint Laurent, Gucci, and Balenciaga – Reuters
Under the deal concluded earlier this year, Kering is contributing the property at 715-717 Fifth Avenue in New York to a newly created joint venture with Ardian, the companies said in a joint statement. Ardian will hold a 60% stake in this, with Kering retaining 40% and receiving $690 million in net proceeds.
The transaction is part of Kering’s broader strategy to secure control of high-profile retail locations while also raising cash. In January, Kering said it had transferred three of its Paris real estate assets to a new joint venture with Ardian, freeing up 837 million euros in proceeds.
“Like the investment agreement already signed in Paris, this transaction allows us to secure another long term highly prominent retail location for our houses while enhancing our financial flexibility,” said Kering chief operating officer Jean-Marc Duplaix, commenting on the New York Ardian deal.
London’s Selfridges continues to be the pop-up destination of choice in London’s West End (Harrods has that status in Knightsbridge) and one of the world’s best known labels will be there as of January.
Dior
Dior, which already has a strong presence in the London flagship will be unveiling its first pop-up boutique for its new summer 2026 creations inside the in-demand Corner Shop.
That’s important because it will celebrate the launch of Jonathan Anderson’s first collection.
Running from 8 January to 28 February, the unique space will “reveal a playful world like a waking dream”. The company said the summer 2026 menswear collection “breathes a certain spontaneity into the art of dressing, while the womenswear line radiates freshness, with leather goods presented alongside exquisite creations. An exceptional selection that expresses the reinvented essence of Dior”.
Dior is currently inviting customers to book appointments and said it will “extend the experience through a curated selection of exclusive events at the pop-up boutique”.
That includes notebook personalisation with “a nod to Versailles-style gilding, personalised detailing applied by an expert [that] promises to add a truly signature touch”. And there’s also bookmark calligraphy where visitors can add their initials to a bookmark, inspired by the newest Dior Book Tote designs by Anderson.
The news of the pop-up comes in the same week that Dior unveiled its super-sized flagship concept House of Dior Beijing. That five-storey space dwarfs the Selfridges space but underscores the ambitious plans LVMH has for the brand, the huge investment Dior is putting into its global growth and its targeting of key luxury markets.
Lululemon was making headlines last week as its CEO exited but it had more upbeat news on Sunday as Lewis Hamilton made a personal appearance at the Regent Street, London, flagship store to to celebrate the launch of The Lewis Hamilton Edit, a curated 36-piece capsule personally selected by the champion racing driver.
André Maestrini and Lewis Hamilton – Lululemon
Importantly too, joining Hamilton in-store for photos was Lululemon’s new interim co-CEO, André Maestrini, marking his first public appearance in the role and highlighting the company’s focus on innovation, as well as stressing that there’s no vacuum at the top of the company’s leadership tree.
Hamilton became a Lululemon ambassador earlier this year and made an unannounced appearance in the store.
Available exclusively at the Regent Street location and on the brand’s UK webstore, the Edit brings together Hamilton’s favourite menswear and womenswear pieces from the brand’s Winter 2025 collection — “each style chosen for its high performance and elevated aesthetic, all filtered through the distinctive personal style he’s renowned for”.
The appearance may have been unannounced but there were plenty of fans gathered outside to see him in a full look from the Edit as he greeted the crowd, signed autographs, and posed for photos.
The first 100 people in the queue also received Lululemon products signed by Hamilton and he was also helping staff style looks and wrap gifts behind the tills.
Such appearances are hugely important for stores at this time of year as they compete to attract customers.