A major new collection from London department store Liberty has just launched and it marks a return to the spotlight for former Gucci creative chief Frida Giannini.

The store and the designer have collaborated on Hypernova 150 by Frida Giannini, designed in honour of the historic store’s 150th Anniversary, with Liberty saying it’s a “milestone collaboration” comprising an exclusive (and extensive) capsule of accessories and fashion.

It’s a collection that we’re told sees “threads of Liberty’s history woven through Frida’s creative lens into a tapestry of legacy, modernity and innovation”.

Giannini was the longest-serving Gucci creative head (since its 1990s revival) having been at the helm for 12 years. But since she exited the Kering-owned star brand in 2014, of her volition she’s kept a relatively low fashion profile and this collection is her first full offer under her own name. 

While she may not seem like an obvious name for Liberty to collaborate with, it’s clear that the store isn’t tied to doing the obvious these days (think those Liberty prints on Adidas Samba trainers, or its recent launch of the Topshop comeback collection in-store).

Looking a little deeper and the link-up becomes a little more of a no-brainer. Giannini is known for her love of print (the now-perennial Gucci Flora was revived during her tenure), as well as an influence in her work of the 1960s (a decade when all-things London were hotter than hot) and for using the tailoring pieces for which London is also known.

She said: “For me, Liberty is the only place emblematic of the quintessence of England: sat between Carnaby Street – the emblem of the social revolution, the swinging Sixties, punks and studs, and Savile Row – a place of tradition, craftsmanship and tailoring. It is not a coincidence that 150 years ago, Sir Arthur wanted to build his Tudor style building here, a building which today still captures the eye for its uniqueness.”

The collection includes a variety of items such as a velvet peacoat, a wool-cashmere peacoat and a longline double-breasted coat, both with specially printed Hypernova linings, a short and a long tartan kilt, slim cut dresses, belts, capes, scarves, pyjamas and a wide selection of bags. A reworked Union Jack using Liberty’s signature purple and a double-L metal logo are key features throughout. It’s prices from £125 up to £1,995.

Giannini also said she’s “always loved Liberty” and called out the artists who designed for it (including William Morris and Sonja Delauney), as well as the artists who dressed in Liberty fabrics, from Oscar Wilde to David Bowie. She also highlighted founder Sir Arthur Lasenby’s pioneering use of fabrics from the Mediterranean, Middle East and Asia.

The designer believes that “Liberty attracts and holds an international appeal. Walking through [the building] is a unique experience, surrounded by all cultures: it is a unique melting pot in the world.”

She explained that she once lived in London (when she worked at Gucci during Tom Ford’s reign) “and return there often. For me, a place I could never miss visiting was Liberty, it was an obligatory destination for me. I needed to come back to my job and my passion, and [this collaboration with] Liberty came in the perfect moment: a sort alchemy”.

As for the collection, she “began researching the storytelling and archives, to find something that could create a strong sense of contrast: uniting the heritage of Liberty, Carnaby Street and music, my great passions, and projecting Liberty into the next 150 years”.

Explaining the collection’s name and symbols, she said: “A hypernova is a rare event in which a strong stellar explosion creates many new stars. So, I thought I’d start with a statement, which is graphically powerful and recognisable by everyone, just like Liberty, the Union Jack. With a hypernova in mind, I introduced the symbolic [purple] colours of Liberty and bronze metals inspired by the British navy [two naval ships were used to build Liberty’s flagship store]. From this came the navy peacoats in felted cashmere and velvet with severed proportions, and the long admiral’s coats, to project Liberty into the next 150 years — at least — but always maintaining its origins.

“Starting from this new colour palette, I searched for and redesigned a Japanese-inspired heron print from the Liberty archives, which has been reproduced on iridescent silk velvets.

“Finally, I designed the monogram logo, which unites the ‘LL’ of Liberty London, in this design, we can read the contrast between the more organic traditions of the past and a more modernist future: very rich and luxurious.”